How do I get the last ball joint bolt lined up with control arm?
03-30-2013, 03:31 PM
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How do I get the last ball joint bolt lined up with control arm?
So, I have my new shocks/springs on the car and have installed new bushings in the control arms - I have one of the control arms joined to the ball joint on the RH side
However, the remaining ball joint on the LH side is proving very difficult to line up as there's now very little play given that the other side is bracing the setup.
Is it best to get a jack under the upright and lift it a little to help the control arm hole line up with the ball joint bolt?
Any suggestions are very welcome.
However, the remaining ball joint on the LH side is proving very difficult to line up as there's now very little play given that the other side is bracing the setup.
Is it best to get a jack under the upright and lift it a little to help the control arm hole line up with the ball joint bolt?
Any suggestions are very welcome.
03-30-2013, 07:39 PM
#5
The suspension needs to be "loaded" regardless, to achieve proper torque specs.
If its loaded it should all go back together without fuss, right? I'm just planning ahead as this job is coming up for me.
If its loaded it should all go back together without fuss, right? I'm just planning ahead as this job is coming up for me.
03-30-2013, 07:40 PM
#6
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Is the front sway bar drop link released? Helps to do so ...
It is almost always helpful to use a second jack to load up (lift) suspension parts on assembly **, especially when working alone ..... a third, strong hand if you will: just be careful of possible slippage re. where you place those fingers.
** eg. when a ball joint stud is lined up through its conical hole, and the nut is on, one can either counterhold the stud to torque down the nut by fishing a torx key into the top of the stud - or by pushing the stud firmly in the hole with a jack. Otherwise, the stud will spin in its socket.
It is almost always helpful to use a second jack to load up (lift) suspension parts on assembly **, especially when working alone ..... a third, strong hand if you will: just be careful of possible slippage re. where you place those fingers.
** eg. when a ball joint stud is lined up through its conical hole, and the nut is on, one can either counterhold the stud to torque down the nut by fishing a torx key into the top of the stud - or by pushing the stud firmly in the hole with a jack. Otherwise, the stud will spin in its socket.
03-30-2013, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by EMBPilot:10345831
The suspension needs to be "loaded" regardless, to achieve proper torque specs.
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03-30-2013, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Garth S:10345832
Is the front sway bar drop link released? Helps to do so ...
It is almost always helpful to use a second jack to load up (lift) suspension parts on assembly **, especially when working alone ..... a third, strong hand if you will: just be careful of possible slippage re. where you place those fingers.
** eg. when a ball joint stud is lined up through its conical hole, and the nut is on, one can either counterhold the stud to torque down the nut by fishing a torx key into the top of the stud - or by pushing the stud firmly in the hole with a jack. Otherwise, the stud will spin in its socket.
It is almost always helpful to use a second jack to load up (lift) suspension parts on assembly **, especially when working alone ..... a third, strong hand if you will: just be careful of possible slippage re. where you place those fingers.
** eg. when a ball joint stud is lined up through its conical hole, and the nut is on, one can either counterhold the stud to torque down the nut by fishing a torx key into the top of the stud - or by pushing the stud firmly in the hole with a jack. Otherwise, the stud will spin in its socket.
