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Aftermarket Radio Question 993 with hifi

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Old 01-08-2013, 01:51 AM
  #31  
x50type
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Mark

It really depends on how many separate speaker pairs of wires come off the head unit you buy. My cheap Sony had 2 less than I needed for the multi- pin plug under the passenger seat. (See earlier photo).
So initially I had only the left and right door bottom speakers powered plus the two sets of rears, so 4 of the 6 door speakers were not powered.
From the wiring diagram you can see how the door speakers are connected, so I tapped into the bottom door speakers wires to drive the mids - there was a convenient couple of wires behind the bottom speakers when I pulled them out, again see earlier photo.
I didn't look very far for the wires for the tweeters and i was too lazy for further dis-assembly, so at present they are not working and I can't say that I miss them very much.

Hope this helps.
Old 01-08-2013, 10:32 AM
  #32  
mark911928
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x50type,

Thank you for the detailed information. I believe I will use this same approach to minimize having to put in new amp and speakers. I appreciate your patience in explaining how to make this work.
Old 01-08-2013, 12:49 PM
  #33  
x50type
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Mark

A bit more info about the OE speaker plug under the passenger seat [to connect your head unit to the OE speakers].

[Info c/o ToreB - grateful thanks.]

Each connector of the 25 connectors are numbered and the wire colour coded, you are only interested in the bottom row numbered 14 to 25.

#14 Brown/purple RF Low +
#15 Purple RF Low -

#16 Brown/green LF Low -
#17 Green LF low +

#18 Yellow LR +
#19 Brown/yellow LR -

#20 Red RR+
#21 Brown/red RR -

#22 Brown/black RF Full -
#23 Black RF Full +

#24 White/brown LF Full -
#25 White LF Full +

Get the +ve and ve's correct and all should be well.
Old 07-07-2013, 06:45 PM
  #34  
f11
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x50type (do you have a first name? I feel foolish addressing you by your handle), where did you get these schematics from? I've been searching hi and lo for my 97 993 electrical schematics and had no luck. I don't mind buying a set if that's what it takes...

Meanwhile, could you post the rest of the sheet you put up showing mainly the sound system a few posts ago? And is it possible to get a higher-rez image for zooming? I know, I know - I'm asking for MORE MORE when I haven't even thanked you for what you've already posted: MAJOR THX for the radio schematic!! BTW, was that for the CR/CDR-210 system?

Rod
Old 07-07-2013, 07:03 PM
  #35  
pp000830
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The OE amp under the seat is not that great, Most any basic head made today with an internal power amp sounds better than it. The existing speakers are nothing to get excited about as even $40 aftermarket speakers vented through the door sound better. I would nix the entire OE speaker box behind the grill/cover on the doors, purchase a set of one inch speaker extension rings at Best Buy and mount standard two way aftermarket speakers behind the OE grill/cover to the rings. Eliminates having to deal with the crossover issue, is inexpensive, installs easily and sounds great.
Andy
Old 07-07-2013, 10:46 PM
  #36  
x50type
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f11

The radio wiring diagram is from Volume 7 [sheet 9] of the 8 volume 993 Repair Manual.

Here is the whole sheet, regrettably i have no way of making a high res image.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:35 PM
  #37  
f11
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Thank you sir !! I'll see if I can find a set of the volumes you mention - when I drove a 99 Miata, I bought all the manuals available for it, and as a result there was almost NOTHING I couldn't do to it on my own... it was a great feeling and made modifications easy! With the 993, I'd be happy just to know how things are wired together, so much of the car is sealed behind fenders and other body work.
Old 07-08-2013, 02:18 PM
  #38  
schroed911
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I just did a similar project. My CDR210 stopped putting out a signal. My requirements were to make it easy to switch back to OEM but get modern BT, hands free, and get sound again.

Alpine head unit installed. I ran new speaker wires to the Nokia.

All OEM connectors remain in place. I used wire taps squeeze on connectors to connect the new head unit to the wires as they lead into the OEM connector at the head unit and then at the Nokia amp bypassing the Nokia amp.

I'm not an audiophile but it sounds as good or better than the OEM CDR210+Nokia amp.

Main challenge was to arrange the wires behind the dash since space is limited.

Name:  Alpineindash-001.jpg
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I also wish I could have found a head unit with a matt black finish. All the units I found including the Alpine are glossy and don't match the dash. The OEM CDR 210 was a cheesy looking unit too.

Last edited by schroed911; 07-08-2013 at 02:35 PM. Reason: added photo
Old 07-08-2013, 05:24 PM
  #39  
x50type
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f11

The 8 volume 993 Repair Manual is invaluable [and expensive]. i believe it is available free on a UK web site, also the parts manual is available on Ebay as a cd and on line . Search this site for info and links.

Another very useful book is 640 page "Porsche 993 - The Essential Companion" by Adrian Streather.


shroed911

I did exactly the same as you did......................................
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:35 PM
  #40  
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i have CR-1 with hi-fi.

CR-1 is dead. Just got a 220 from Becker.

Trying to get my 220 to work but I cannot get sound?
Is this due to the Nokia amp?
Old 07-02-2014, 09:34 PM
  #41  
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Update:

I have found somebody who knows how to connect the CDR220 (in palce of the CR1) to the factory HI-FI sound system.
http://www.swstereo.com

These guys sell everything including the power harness required to get power to the factory Nokia amp.

Will update further once I recieve the harness.
Old 07-14-2014, 09:31 PM
  #42  
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Hate to tap into an existing (and old thread) but it's germane.

I just recently picked up a 96 993 cab. The head unit was replaced with a Kenwood.

I have no idea how they wired it together -- but the speakers sound like they have dry rotted
and need to be replaced.

It's the hifi version -- what after market setup works? I.e. what fits?
Assume I'm willing to rewire as necessary and bypass the amp if needed.
Looking for reasonable price and reasonable sound.

I found where the non-hifi folks replaced them with Polk Audio 6.5" which I would be fine to do, but they
won't fit with the hifi grille.

Is there anything special about the 4" rears in the hifi setup?

thanks,

Mike
Old 07-15-2014, 12:37 AM
  #43  
x50type
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The rears are still available from Porsche - about $125 each.
Nothing special about them. I got an $8.00 [delivered] speaker from Amazon and replace the worn out rear - sounds as good as the OE. The tweeter is disconnected due to the way it is wired in the OE unit. The tweeter shortage is not missed.

I did find a plug in place of the Nokia amp - there is another thread all about this by Pilotjosh.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:03 AM
  #44  
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All good stuff in this thread. Question .. it reasonable to turn the three way speaker system into a standard passive three way system? Can this be done easily in the speaker enclosures by just add the appropriate cross over capacitor in series to the positive leads from the mid -range and tweeter speakers and then just combine all three sets of speaker leads tweeter/mid/woofer in parallel to a conventional amp? Considering the sound levels in a 911 and the speaker placement any sound phase distortion would be hard to hear anyway.
Also looking at how modern coaxial aftermarket speakers have outstanding sound could one just remove the speaker system from behind the carped cover completely, add an extension ring in front of the standard speaker hole in the door card under the cover and mount something aftermarket that will sound much better than the original. One could even integrate the existing tweeter with a capacitor crossover if one would like to.

Your thoughts?
Old 07-15-2014, 11:43 AM
  #45  
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I had it recommended to me to replace the HiFi door speakers with a 2-way component system with the OEM tweeter disconnected and the new one relocated to the mid-range speaker spot. This recommendation was due to the difficulty of fitting new tweeters into the original mounting space. Some RLers have had success with replacement tweeters.

I personally would like to try a 3-way passive component solution to replace the OEM setup. I'm a little stumped by what to do with my rear speakers (one is blown out) and how to power them. The cheap replacement speakers won't handle the same level of power that I'd want to push to the door speakers, so an even 4-channel amp doesn't make much sense.

I've had it recommended to power the rear speakers directly from the head unit bypassing any additional amplifiers. Despite all this technobabble I'm still quite new to the world of car audio and speaker systems.


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