Installation thread for KONI FSD suspension
 

Follow along on my Koni FSD/ROW33 installation thread.

A coupe of items up front:

- this is for entertainment purposes only (I am not an expert and I am not advising anyone on how to do this installation)

- any tips, insights, or constructive criticism is welcome

- I will update this thread as I go along

- I have dyslexia, so bear with me regarding any diction or spelling errors

_______________

Starting point:

A 1997 993C4S with 26K original miles on it (stock suspension and ride height). The goal will be to have the car at a lower ride height and also, improve the ride.

http://imageshack.us/a/img535/5712/s...2020600022.jpg

A heated 24 x 36 gararge makes this a nice winter project.

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/391/993007.jpg

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3787/993016.jpg

I bought the suspension from Carnewall (@$1,400)

Koni FSD and ROW33

These struts are not adjustable. I have to figure out what the red rings are for? I noticed that these are not on the units sold in the US, but are on the ones out of Belgium.

The red rings - any ideas? Looks like an adjustment to me.

Koni supplies a wrench, but 0 instructions.

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4756/p93166.jpg

ROW33 springs

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/4564/993002.jpg

Wheels off - End of day 1.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/9022/993005.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9850/993006.jpg

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8746/993s2001.jpg

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/7637/993023.jpg





The jack is gone and the car is up on 4 jack stands.

This site is a valuable resource with regard items like jacking the car up:

http://p-car.com/diy/diy.html

Subscribed.

I just bought the same kit from Gert. It's my winter project also. I haven't started yet. PM me your email and I'll send the scanned instructions that were included in the kit I got.

Note that the top piston nut on the OEM struts is 21mm. The Koni FSD nut is 22mm.

Red rings are adjustable height perches. As are Koni Yellows, it looks like FSDs are adjustable on the front but not on the rear. Very odd, but consistent.

PS. If you have dyslexia you should feel right at home here :) At least that's my excuse :)

FSD scanned instructions
 

Attached.

Subscribed as well.

Gert states on line "shipping included". Can you confirm that.

Yes (same offer at the time I ordered). Shipping time was about 5 days to VA.

And, Gert was great to deal with. I started w/ the PSS10 or Bilstein HD /ROW30 route, but in an exchange of emails I told him how I used the car and he recommended a FSD/ROW33.

I've had this set-up on my car for about six months now. You won't regret the choice.

The shipping was included in the price (I think the total was @$1,436).

At that time, some vendors on EBAY were charging @$2K, not including shipping.

About 3 months later US Customs sent me a $46 tariff bill (based on my FedEX delivery on the items) for importing this from another country.

Pretty cool. Now might be a good time to re-paint the calipers ! Just sayin....

Yes, calipers will need to be re-celared in spots.

There are lots of links on RL on how to tackle this:

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...g-options.html

My pads have plenty left on them, so that's one less thing to do.

Subscribed. Want to see how you like the ride and what the ride height looks like.

Hmm....interesting that the rear shocks have no adjustment. I guess your ride height in the rear is dependent on the springs of your choosing. Subscribed!

I have been debating HD's and FSD's. I look forward to hearing how you like them.

Will follow this one with interest , Koni's are on my list,
And Gert lives a bit closer to me ( but not close enough for a Sunday drive!)
Thanks for the thread and pics!

Good to see you back, Shamrock. :thumbup:

I like my FSD and M030, I especially like the price.

The next step is to remove the ABS connection to the strut tower.

There is the white ABS sensor (in a black case), brown wire to the ABS counter (held by a white clip), and an addtional black clip that holds the wire that feeds the ABS sensor - all shown below.

When re-aattaching to the new tower I will need to buy new clips since they are brittle.


The ABS senser case opens pretty easily. The white clip is pried off the tower. The other black clip is a pincher type that is pried open easily.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9830/993s2003.jpg

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/5373/993s2004.jpg

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8019/993s2005.jpg

The next step is to remove the brake clips that secure the brake line to the tower. It takes ALOT of force to pull this clip upward. Locking pliers to the trick. Put a rag over the top of the plier so that if it slips off the brake clip, it wont hit the inner metal fender. Use a screw driver and pry it from the bottom to get it started upward.

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/3388/993s2006.jpg



I was met with 2 suprises next.

Sometime in the previous 16 years - someone had remove the brake line from the strut tower.

Brake service?

Replacement of struts?


I know this for 2 reasons:

1. A notch (non factory) has been cut in the strut tower (see photo)
2. Who ever cut the notch carelessly shredded the mini rubber boots on what I believe are connectors from the strut tower to the control arms (correct me if I am wrong). These contain grease inside and appear to be sealed units (not anymore).

A few questions:

1. Are these the original Monroe struts?
2. Replacment Monroes?
3. What is involved to fix the damaged rubber boots. It looks like they are part of a 1 piece unit.

I wonder if the previos owners ever knew?

The car had 2 PPIs in 18 months and this was never picked up.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4345/993s2007.jpg

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1811/993s2009.jpg



I believe that the area that is damaged is the rubber covering of the upper part of the front drop link - correct?

I guess I am looking a new drop links?

The rubber on the CV joints etc. is pristine and like new.

May be a good time to do an exchange and replace the front control arm busings with Walrods while I am at it?

Is this the cheapest option re upgrading from stock Monroes and lowering from SUV to ROW height? Hope i got all the terms right. I am looking for the cheapest option as i have zero plans for track use and i want a comfortable yet responsive ride.

Thanks! :)

Those are your droplinks-and it isn't a bad idea to replace them with new shocks. Cutting the notches when pulling shocks is probably pretty common-doing it so haphazardly, isn't.

My goal of suspension choice was:

1. Lower height
2. Comfortable and smooth ride

No being a track person - PSS10, KW and other seemed overkill for what I was looking for.

When I did my research, it seems the the Koni FSD/ROW30 combo fit the best for me.

I would suggest that this is the most cost effective way to go if you want a lowered ride and responsive street ride. For about $1500 for springs and shocks, it is pretty good value. If you want a smooth ride, get the M033 springs, for a slightly sportier ride get the M030 springs. You might also want to look into strut mounts, that connect the car to the shock, plus new control arm bushings. This will provide an almost new front end and perfect steering feel.

Been on the fence with either PSS10s or the Konis so will be interested to see how this turns out.

Subscribed as well. My factory struts are shot - at least one is oil-free :eek:

I've been stuck in analysis-paralysis for a while now.

What tool are you planning on using for the front tops? I received a MetalNerd 21/22mm reversible unit for Christmas from my wife, so just curious - I've read some posts indicating no tool is needed . . .

Ditto here! I want a nice, planted sporty ride for aggresive canyon carving but never plan to track my car. I THINK PSS10 is overkill- however, I don't want to undershoot it either and end up with something too soft.
Subscribed and anxious for your feedback!

A o2 sensor socket can also be used when snugging down the new top nut, they are 7/8 but the math works =-)

I did this recently going with the bilsteins and h&r's from Gert. great guy and price. didn't much care for the duty pmt for importing the parts, but what are you going to do. Do the front control arm bushings. i choose the elephant racing version, take your pick.

I don't know why image shack scrubed some of my photos in the initial post?

I have since fixxed it (hosting error on my part - sorry).

Here is today's progess.

When the previous mechanic had cut the tabs holding the brake lines to the strut tower, he must have hammered them down afterwards.

The lines did not slide out. This is very tough steel. I actually had to cut them apart to get the brake lines out. There is a limited space here and you have to be careful not to let the diamond wheel slip since there are lot's of structures (brake lines and wires etc.) that can be easily be damaged.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9053/993s3001.jpg

The next step is to loosen the strut tower at its top (inside the bonnet). This requires a 21mm Hazat socket (pictured). When I looked on line for 1 of these, places that have them in stock want anywhere from $60 to $110/socket.

I found mine on EBAY. BMW strut sockets do the trick. I found a set of 19mm, 21mm, and 22mm (which is the Koni nut size) for $40 total.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/8605/993s3002.jpg

Get a Hazat equivalent tool at a great price.

This included the 21mm needed for the stock strut and the 22mm which in needed for the KONI.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170890243436...#ht_5351wt_917



You need a 7mm allen wrench to go inside the socket. This size is not common and somewhat hard to find. I found one on EBAY for $3.

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/5149/993s3005.jpg

Here is a photo of the combination together - use a blanket to protect your fender. This worked like a charm to loosen the strut at the top.

http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/5255/993s3007.jpg

Enough for today, time to scoop poop in the snow before it sinks down only to be found in the spring:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6822/993015.jpg

Todays progess:

Sorry about the orientation of this picture (rotate in backwards 90 in your mind).

Remove the top nut on for the bottom part of the strut (10mm allen socket):

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3386/993s4001.jpg

Remove the bottom nut (18mm socket) - breaker bar, impact gun will help

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1392/993s4002.jpg

You'll be left with 2 bolts and the bracket that they screw into on the other side of the bottom part of the strut (bad and tag).

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7589/993s4003.jpg

Remove all of the nuts from the top of the shock tower (except the last one, just leave it loose).

Remember to cover you fender to avoid paint damage from things like a dropped tool.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1117/993s4004.jpg

Then supporting the strut tower in you hand, take off the last nut and from below gradually remove the tower from the wheel well (while avoiding any wires or hard lines.

Here is the strut removed:

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8350/993s4005.jpg

Here is the space (minus the strut).

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/808/993s4006.jpg

Time to clean this area up.

Also, this has me wondering? While I am there should I swap out the control arms? Chris Walrod does an exchange (with new bushings). Tough job to do that? The nuts look big. Also. Torque settings?

How hard is it to swap out the control arms?

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/2408/993s4007.jpg

Any good links?

I'm actually currently in the middle of all this on my 964 (w/ Bilstein HD & H&R reds), but i'm doing Powerflex bushings on the arms instead of Walrod (i'm sure they're both great, so NBD).

The nut/bolts on the arms are 19mm and they're pretty tight, but my 18" breaker bar and some effort got them loose. I still haven't dropped them from the car tho, just cracked the bolts loose.

On removing the spindle/ball joint from the arm, I decided to leave the balljoint untouched, and instead separated the complete brake rotor/spindle/ball joint assembly from the arm as one unit (remove the eccentric and remove the nut on the arm stud).

I was going to ask you if there's any trick to transferring the plastic hardware from the OEM strut to your new struts? I still haven't done that yet.

Yes, you are probably due for control arm bushings. Most who have updated shocks/springs due them at the same time. To not do them, and have some noticeable ill effects after paying for alignment, would be painful, IMO.

I'm in the middle of this too - Koni FSD's and M030 springs & ARBs on my '96 C4, which has 100+ miles and was ready for some serious refurb. Thus I'm experiencing a severe case of "while you're in there"-itis and found the following needed replacing and/or servicing:

• rear drop links & toe control arms (both with Taretts)
• front drop links (Sunset)
• front control arm bushings (Walrod) and ball joints
• DIY zinc electroplated front control arm hardware
• 1 rear & 2 front axles (boots torn and/or CV joints binding)
• leaking seals in front transfer case
• front shock top mounts didn't rotate smoothly; removed seals, cleaned & re-lubed - now like new!

FWIW I didn't find the front control arm bushing replacement too difficult. Be sure to check all ball joint boots including rear control arms (one of my drop links was damaged like yours). You got lucky finding those open socket wrenches, I had to buy a couple and create openings with my bench grinder.

Found several helpful sources, especially this forum, but also including DIY Suspension Install for Dummies (search on this forum) and some good articles from Jackal's Forge (google it). I also learned that the shop manuals advise replacing numerous hardware pieces, eg cage nuts on the front shock mounts to hub carrier etc so you might want to consider in your own project.

Good luck and I'll watch this thread in case one of us can help the other!

some parting pics:

plastic hardware - removal tip
 

Yes: there's a small spreader rod in the center of each of the plastic hardware holders where they attach to the strut. Push the rod part way out before you try to remove the hardware or the spacer will break. Had to find this out the hard way. :(

Here is a little food for thought on how to set the ride height with non-adjustable rear struts...
Once the non-adjustable rear struts and replacement springs are installed lower the car and measure the rear ride height from the specified bolts on the cross member. Then take the difference between this measured height and the USA standard (157mm) height in the shop manual and subtract it from the standard height specified for the USA front (174mm) and use the resulting value to adjust the spring purch setting on the front struts. This all assumes that the calculated front height value is at or above the front ROW lowered height specification (144mm). By doing this you should preserve the relative front to back stance of the vehicle to its original factory settings and ensure that the car can be aligned to the factory values.
Andy :-)

THX to everyone for the advice:

Few questions:

For front drop link replacement - any reason to not use OEM (street car, not tracked)

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1811/993s2009.jpg

Also, for wheel-well cleaning:

Any suggestion for a good aluminum cleaner/polish for control arms?

Touch up paint for wheel well scuffs?

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/9310/993s5001.jpg

You could start by removing any Cosmoline off those components. Xenit Cleaner & Remover works extremely well, followed by a water-based degreaser such as Facto AT-30 (down side is it must be ordered - a few Rennlisters have so far).

You mean those tire rub marks that according to the experts, doesn't happen. :icon501:

If you want to go all out, Würth makes an underbody coating in various colors and it comes in a spray can. Hold a piece of Bristol board with a hole cut out, about an inch off the surface and give it a few quick shots. Finish off with a spray can in your body color.

I didn't think M030 were recommended with Koni FSD. I thought it was FSD/ M033 or Koni sport/ M030.

Thanks crw for the updates, watching along.

Dan, Koni used to have a notice on their web site regarding something about not lowering more than 1.5 inches (I think I have that number right). They no longer state that for some reason.

to clean and control arms i used a drill with a wire brush to get the majority of it off, stuff is on there and thick. Brake Cleaner is your friend after using the wire brush to get the left on bits, helps dissolve it and use a nylon brush

rob

The posed question pertains to spring rate, they are both available in ROW height.

The springs I am using is ROW33, I think I said ROW30 earlier (my mistake).

Next step, while awiting new drop links for the front I have moved on to the rear suspension.

I removed the tranmission tray. My engine tray was missing. I kind of like the idea of having one to keep the crud off the engine. Does anyone have one the want to sell?

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/3564/s6001.jpg

I removed the drop links from the rear sway bar (easy with a 15mm socket and a 16 mm wrench)

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8663/s6003.jpg

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/4535/s6004.jpg

I have remove the 13 mm bolts attaching the sway bar also:

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8663/s6003.jpg

I have encountered a problem while trying to remove the bolts that attaches the suspension arm that connects to the lower part of the rear shock.

There is a 19mm eccentric bolt (toward the rear of the car) and a 18mm nut toward the front of the car.

I can get a 18 mm box wrench on the bolt, but it is so tight and with limited space under the car I can not budge it with my 18 mm box wrench.

Suggestions:

1. Penetrating oil?
2. Deep 18 mm sockeck with breaker bar or impact gun (heat exchanger may prevent this. Need a tip here.

Would it be OK and easier to leave this connection alone and just disassemble the connectio to the bottom of the shock to get the rear shock out?

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6197/s6007.jpg

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1755/s6008.jpg

It is the nut that you need to rotate while holding the bolt steady. You have probably realized that already. You will need to raise the engine slightly for the bolt to be removed. Be patient when putting the bolt back. It is one of those jobs that can take 15 secs or ages. For me it was the latter. Sorry if this has already been covered in this thread but I have little time at the moment to read all the posts. Will certainly catch up with it latter.
Acetone with ATF fluid (50/50) worked brilliantly as a penetrating lubricant when I removed all my suspension components. It was much better than any thing coming out of an aerosol.

"I removed the tranmission tray. My engine tray was missing. I kind of like the idea of having one to keep the crud off the engine. Does anyone have one they want to sell?"

Your 993, last of the air cooled 911's, runs hotter and is further stressed by making more HP than all previous iterations. Heat breaks down and adds wear to engine components; therefore, cooling is of paramount importance. Engine trays tend to restrict the amount of cool air that can get to the engine.

If you have hot summers, or have stop and go traffic, you may want to leave the engine tray off. This helps further regulate the hot spots. Lots of 993 owners are aware of this and remove the cover/tray for this very reason.

Are you sure you still want to purchase one? :nono:"

As far are "raising the engine slightly;"

Jack under appropriate point will do the job?

Or, do I need to loosen some things in the eengine bay 1st.

I'll pick up a deep 18mm impact socket tommorrow which, coupled with some penetrating oil, should do the trick - hopefully.

We were just having a discussion on the 964 forum about front drop links and the possibility to replace the perished boots and reuse the otherwise good link.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...bar-links.html

If the joints still have grease in them, and it aren't super contaminated to the point of killing the joint, then you should be able to wash out all the old grease w/ some solvent, repack with new grease, then replace the boots for a very small fraction of the price of new links.

You will need to slacken the engine mounts with a jack under the centre of the crankcase. An ice hockey puck on the jack to protect the engine works well. Slacken off the M12 lock nuts from underneath to the end of the thread. You will need to knock out the round access plates and use a long extension bar. Remove the M8 bolts from the top. Lube them if they are tight. Not a great place to be drilling out broken bolts!
You may need to tilt the engine a little to get the clearance to remove the bolt.
Have fun.

Todays progess:

The nuts on the end of the eccentric bolts were pretty tight. I let them soak with some PB blaster overnight.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1755/s6008.jpg

Unfortunately, you cannot get a 18mm deep impact socket on them do to the interferance of the heat exchangers.

I had to use a 18mm box wrench.

On the passenger side loosening the bolt required me to push upward on the wrench. I used a floor jack against the end of the wrench and off the bolt came.

On the driver's side I used a long scew driver to push the wrench downward (using the crossmember as my leverage and that worked to).


You run into some Porsche cruelty which does not allow you to remove the bolt on the driver's side due to interference of the heat exchanger:

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6197/s6007.jpg

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7103/s8002.jpg

Thanks to the helpful tip provided by Luftd993, I raised the engine a few millimeters for clearance and that worked.

I loosed the engine bolts at rear:

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8596/s8005.jpg

Then I loosened the bottom nuts on the engine mounts from below:

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8051/s8004.jpg

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6953/s8003.jpg

Both bolts are out now (alot of work for just 2 bolts)!

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/4412/s8006.jpg

The end of the bar the connects the shock mount can now be dropped.

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8889/s8007.jpg

Enough for today, one of my dogs is hungry:

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/2685/dogs002.jpg

Todays work:

The next step was to remove the connection to the lower part of the rear shock absorber.

Use a 18mm ratchet box wrench and keep the inner part of the spindle from turning with a 40 Torx bit.

It will help to spray this overnight with some PB bkaster since the threads are exposed to the elements and might be dirty or corroded a bit.

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/709/s9001a.jpg

Then remove the 13 MM cage nuts on the top of each shock (in the engine compartment).

A few cavets:

- small hands are helpful
- do not drop the nuts, or you will be in for alot of greif (no, I did not drop them)

On the driver's side there is very limted space. Fortunately these nuts are not torqued on very tight (I had to use a small ratchet.

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/8518/s9003.jpg

On the passenger side, remove the cover to the airbox (might as well change the air filter while you are there). The back 2 nuts are hidden behind some stiff wires and rubber. Once again, do not drop them. You have more room than the drivers side, although still not very much!

http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/5610/s9004t.jpg


Support the bottom of the shock with a floor jack and pry it away the where it sits in the connection. Then guide the shock down and out.

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/1092/s9007.jpg

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6897/s9008.jpg

These steps took me at 75 minutes total.

The challenges here were:

1. Tight nuts on the bottom of the shocks.

2. Limited space at the top of the shocks in the engine compartment

Great thread. FSD install is on my list along with engine overhaul and brake rotors, short shift from FDM and whatever else I can do. Hope you enjoy the ride!

I awaiting new rubber boots etc, before installing the struts and shocks sometime in the next 2 weeks.

There are many great vendors out there.

One I have been very happy with has been Sonnen Porsche. Their website is very easy to navigate, great schematics, discounted OEM prices and great service:

http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/par...gramCallOut=16

Being a little OCD and knowing that a cleaner car is faster, I am in the cleaning phase right now.

Some products that I have used include:

- NAPA Aluminum Bright (good, but toxic phosphoric acid - need alot of rinsing)
- Citrus degreaser
- Dilute Simple Green
- Wire brushes on portable drill

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4493/s10006.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7494/s10005.jpg

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/8488/s10004.jpg

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/5827/s10003.jpg

I am not going to polish the aluminum becuase I drive this car.

I have to paint the black shafts and parts and also, will be touching up the clear on the calipers down the road.

All of the crappy Cosmoline underneath really bugs me. Yes, there are many threads on the pros and cons of removing it.

I don't drive this car in bad weather, so most of it will go.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3016/s10007q.jpg

http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/5756/s10008.jpg

It is a PIA to remove.

Then there is project creep:

- Do I do Fister IIs while I am in the neighborhood
- Bleed the brakes

How are you planning on cleaning all the cosmoline off the engine case?

WD40 works great on cosmoline. Give it a try.

From what I have read - Stoner Citrus cleaner works well.

Simple wire wheels on drill and dremel work well too, but are very time and labor intensive.

Lots of things on a rag don't seem to affect it much at all such as brake clean, lacquer thinner, ansd wax/grease/adhesive removers.

I sprayed it with some citrus and wil let it soak here and there in the next few days (this stuff is non-toxic).

My goal here is to clean it up a bit, not to make it a museum piece.

Tried Xenit orange but just way too many nooks and crannies to remove completely. I heard steam works well.

You need to use tooth and paint brushes.

I far prefer working on motorcycles because they are generally much cleaner, so for that reason, I cleaned my 993 so that it would be equally enjoyable to work on.

Nice winter project and thanks for sharing!

Alex,
You sir, have way too much time on your hands. Your 993 looks spectacular. Now cleaning is even easier with your new lift. :cheers:

Hey, that is only a preliminary cleaning. I'm not done yet. :D The twenty-two year old motorcycle is way cleaner and it has even been on some long trips to the EAA in Oshkosh. ;)

As for the lift, it was money well spent. My install method ran me almost as much as the lift though. Not cheap, but I feel comfortable under it.

I have a question: when fully extended, are the FSD shocks longer than the M033 springs? In Germany, that would be an obstacle to using this setup because the car wouldn't pass the bianual vehicle inspection if they notice this. I think that is the reason why Bilstein introduced the shortened B8 shocks.

I hope not; are they?

I'd expect the springs to be preloaded when the strut is assembled off the car.

When I installed my ROW M030's the fronts shocks were slightly longer (ie spring under slight tension). The rears were slightly shorter so the spring was loose between the top mount and bottom perch, but when the whole assembly went into the car, the supporting suspension components (upright, axle, control arms) squeezed the shock/spring so nothing was loose when the car was raised and wheels hanging in mid-air.

As the ROW M030 and M033 ride height are the same, and assuming this means the spring lengths are the same, there should be no issue with inspection.

When unloaded, M033 springs are shorter than M030s. At least that's what I have been told.

I am awaiting some new plastic clips and rubber boots before re-installing the struts and shocks.

In the meanitime I am still cleaning the cosmoline which is like Kryptonite. There is not much that touches it at all:

- simple green, no
- car cleaner, no
- brake cleaner, no

The only thing that seems to work is a wire wheel on a dremel or drill - which is very time and labor intensive.

I want to avoid mineral sprits due to the volatility.

I have hope for Stoner Xenit Citrus Cleaner and Zymol Strik - we shall see.

I have been asked to post a measurement of the MO33 springs.

These are comfort European Porsche springs which provide a lowering of @ 1.5 inches and a more comfortable ride than the stock springs.

The form measure 11 inches and the rear 13 inches.

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/8864/s11003.jpg

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2181/s11004.jpg

That is what I used. I used Dunk and kerosene to get most of it off, followed by Xenit and then a water based degreaser.

It doesn't just wash off. You need to let it soak and to agitate it with a paint or toothbrush and repeat numerous times.

Wire wheels remove the clear anodizing.

I place the MO33 springs next to the stock springs.

They are the same length.

It must be a combination of the spring stiffness and Koni strut/shock set up that produced a lower ride height than the factory set up.

Any update!?
Following this thread with interest ...

Current updates:

I am awaiting new rubber boots and bumpers for the stuts/shocks and then they will be set to go in.

The wheel wells and undercarriage was a sea of old comsmoline.

I tried many things, but most things did not make a dent in it:

- simple green - no
- brake clean - no
- Dawn soap - no
- WD40 -no
- Xenit citrus cleaner by Stoner - very little.

I read on-line about a Product made by Zymol called "Strik." Most of the reviews were VG, but quite a few were on sites that were selling the stuff, so I was skeptical. I read about it on a few detaining forums and decided to give it a try.

It is expensive (@$35/8 0unces), but it can be diluted from 1:1 to 1:3. It works great. Let it sit for a 20 minutes and then the cosmoline diasppears with light brushing with a toothbrush. It seems like light brushing works alot better than heavy brushing. The small bottle is enough for the whole car since it does not evaoprate much and goes on with a spray bottle so very little needs to be used each time.

It works extremely well and is worth the price.

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/3156/993s11012.jpg

The wheels wells are clean (they were coated with cosmoline and were yellow/brown before). I will redye the plastic with "Forever Black" which works well and is extremely durable.

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1391/993s11005.jpg

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/664/993s11004.jpg

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/1391/993s11005.jpg

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/1219/993s11003.jpg

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/664/993s11004.jpg

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/7017/993s11009.jpg




The drivetrain is almost done (one more 1 hour session should remove the rest of the crud).

Before I started all of the metal looked like yellow slime. The rest of the the crud will be gone tommorrow.


http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/8586/993s11002.jpg

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4742/993s11013.jpg


The rear shocks are disassembled by using an 18 mm deep socket on the top nut while griping the shaft with a vice drip to prevent rotation. Letting the top nut soak with a lubricant overnight was needed.

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3372/993s11011.jpg

In the meantime I pulled my ISV valve which needed cleaning (surging idle at the end of the season (brake clean worked well). The inside had enough carbon in it to cause surging at idle.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/1475/993s11015.jpg

CRW - I'm doing the same install. The last of my parts arrived today and I plan to start disassembly this weekend. I have all the tools I need except maybe for a spring compressor. Did you use one?

No spring compressor is needed.

What has held me up is that I am waiting for some rubber parts that I did not anticipate prior to gettingthe shocks/struts out - new rubber dust boots, bumpers, and gasket at the top of the strut.

Everything looks so nice, I didn't want to reinstall old rubber parts that were 15+ years old and looked aged.

For the strut - use the Hazat socket/allen wrench (or equivalent) to get the top nut off. The spring is not under any significant tension.

For the shock, grip the shaft with a vice grip and use an 18mm deep socket up top. The spring has minimal tension - you don't need a compressor.

I have a few items to keep me busy until the parts come:

- refinishing brake calipers
- bleeding brakes
- final cleaning of underbody and suspension
- redye of the black trim

No rush, it's 6 degrees here in Ohio, but 65 in my gararge/shop; :)

Great write up and pictures! I will be doing that soon, and its great to know what the difficult parts are. Too bad the lack of a heated garage and work travel will push that into the spring.

You should check the rear axle boots are in good shape while you are in there. I had to get a new drive shaft because I didn't catch that early enough. Check all the suspension bushings and ball joints too.

Good luck with the rest of the work!

Might want to consider caliper refresh ie new seals and dust boots before reinstall & bleed.

+1 on checking axle boots. While you're in there....:D Also suggest checking or consider replacing:

- front ball joints
- front control arm bushings
- boots on your other suspension bits, especially toe control arms (rear) and drop links (front & rear)?

All of above were either toast or very tired at 120k miles on my C4.

Nice work and have fun with the rest!

Couple of notes

ROW springs are shorter than US

M030 springs are progressive
M033 are not

crw - Great write up - Thank you for your detailed approach.
I am looking forward to seeing photos of your new improved ride height. Please post your photos ASAP. I am considering this suspension upgrade, but I am concerned about the stance. The lack of adjustment threads on the rear struts worries me. I want to achieve a lower stance without the rear sitting lower than front. I hope you achieve the ride quality and look you are after.

subscribed

CRW - great thread. I'm a couple of steps behind you. FWIW - I found it easier to drop the struts and then remove the top nut. I used a 21mm spark plug socket w/ flats, adjustable wrench, and 7mm allen wrench per Jackals racetrack (link here - http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/9...uspension.html). The top nuts were very tight and I was worried about the wrench slipping and collateral damage while mounted. NP using these tools once the strut was out.

I suppose you are going to cut a notch in the FSDs for the brake-line?

I have had some delays.

My Koni kit got shipped without the 22mm top nuts for the struts. I am awaiting these from Koni.

In the meantime, my undercarriage has been detailed:


http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2737/s13004.jpg

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2645/s13006.jpg

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/796/s13005.jpg

The project hit a little bit of a cluster f. with regard to the rear shocks.

Part of the problem is that the instructions sent by Koni have minimal detail and direction.

There is a silver ring shock perch on which the spring sits. This ring has a tiny indent that has to face downward.

Not the small diferrence in the 2 pictures below the silver ring.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/2341/fsdshock003.jpg

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4386/s13002.jpg

Here is where things went bad:

The kit came only 2 nuts (19 mm). There should have been 2 (19mm) nuts for the shocks and 2 (22mm ) nuts for the struts.

I assumed that the 2 nuts in the were for the struts and that I was to use the OEM 18mm nuts on the shocks - MY MISTAKE.

After a few turns I realized the shock tock the 19mm nut, not the 18mm nuts.. I backed it off and finished putting the shocks together.

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/8564/s13001.jpg

After I was done, I am embarrassed to say that on one of the set-ups, I had the silver ring inverted.

This occurred (of course) on the side which I had cross threaed on the top. The unit at this point was already together, so I figured I would just take it apart and invert the ring.

The 19mm nut back off until I got to the top threads. It then would not budge.

I tried so extra forced with breaker bar and sanpped off the 6mm Allen wrench in the hex at the top of the shock.

So now, I can't get this nut off and I have a piece of the allen wrench stuck inside.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/6707/s13003.jpg

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/7652/s13007.jpg


I am going to get help from a friend on Monday.

I am open to ideas.

What we were thinking is:

1. Tack weld to the allen wrench bit and pull it out.
2. Cut off the 19mm nut with a diamond wheel
3. Clean up the 19mm theads with a die
4. New 19mm nut

If the Allen wrench bit won't come out, I can hold the shock shaft with a vice grip and tighten the 19mm nut down to 43 pounds similar to the OEM set up (which does not have a hollow hex anyway).

I think I can salavge this.

Worse case scenario I am going to have to purchase a new single shock for $250.

Learn from my mistake.



:soapbox:

Granted, you're not supposed to use a cordless impact wrench on these bolts... but I would. Perhaps tighten a strap around the shock shaft to help prevent rotation, then hit that nut with the impact wrench. Otherwise you're scrapping the shock. I guess you could take your broken Allen wrench and weld it to the shaft top. Personally, I'd say hell with that, just use the impact wrench. People with moton/JRZ/mcs do so every time.

For those that are following along w/ CRW - let me add emphasis to checking the front control arm bushings. Even though my car has only 22k miles on it - I took the sage advise of RL members - and pulled the control arms and checked the bushings. They were visibly sagging; my mechanic agreed they were shot.

Sorry you ran into trouble; hopefully you get it sorted without too much pain and expense. I plan on installing the same set up one day so thanks much for taking the time post this!
Undercarriage looks great too.

Good Luck with the rest of the install!

D.

Sagging? You mean the rubber turned to mush at a mere 22K miles?

Therein lies the truth: time takes a toll.

Keep on believing your suspension doesn't need refreshing. :rolleyes:

Any updates? :corn:

Yes; they were clearly deteriorated. My car is a '97, so its 16 years old w/ 22k miles (and I put 2.6k of that on it bringing home from LV to VA this fall). I didn't "want" to believe the bushing could be bad since the car is cosmetically/mechanically perfect in so many ways. But the bushings were shot.

Thanks to the "nagging" from RL'ers about checking the bushings, I checked them. So my recommendation to others doing a suspension "upgrade" is to take the extra hour to pull both control arms and check the bushings.

Easily salvageable with a dremel, cutting wheel and a chisel. Cut into the nut with a cutting wheel, taking care not to touch the thread crests of the strut. A hammer and chisel in the lefty loosey direction, should git er done. Even if you cut into the threads a bit, you can clean up the thread with a 3 sided, (60 degree included angle) file.

My front struts are installed.

While I was in the neighborhood I resprayed the calipers with VHT clear after sanding and they turned out great (there are many threads on this).

- pick of the flaking clear
- light sand the edges
- clean
- 2 light sprays

Very easy!

New rubber dust covers, bumpers, and perch gasket rubber is highley reccomended (the old one had cracks and were not pliable anymore).

Important items are to folow the proper torque settings and have the wheels straight which will make it easier to install.

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5381/s14002.jpg

On this one I still have to tighten the lock ring and do the brake clip.

http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/3691/s14006.jpg

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5205/s14009.jpg

I have started to install the rear shocks (the one good one I have).

When tightening the shock nuts in the engine compartment be very careful.

A well know Porsche shop told me about a customer who dropped one of the nuts for the rear shcoks into the back of the engine bay. it was never found and made it's way into a part of the engine that locked up the cam and caused significant damage to the valves . :mad:

As a caution I put some paper as a saftey back there just in case the nut got loose. It's a very tight space with little eye view or room to work. Also, I taped the nut to the extension before threading it on. It's very hard to thread 2/4 nuts on with your hand - no room. This is a nut you do not want to drop into the engine abyss back there.

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/8398/s14013.jpg

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/5783/s14011.jpg

----------

As I mentioned in my previous post - I screwed up 1 shock by cross threading the wrong side nut.

To make a long story short, I can't salvage the shock (the piston got damaged trying to cut the nut off).

Worse, you cannot but a single shock retail, they only come in a kit.

I called Koni, NA and they are going to provide me with a replacement shock at a nominal charge. I have to wait for it to some from Belgium - it should be here in 2 weeks.

Also, Koni has certain warranty rules regarding the where you purchase you kit from.

They have been a big help.

crw - Great tip on taping the nut to the extension. Your thread on the install has been a big help to me since I'm doing the same and am about a week behind where you are. This weekend I'm reinstalling the re-bushed front control arms & front struts.

Question. What size did cut the notch for the front brake lines?

I was told by my mechanic that Bilstein will not warranty anything bought outside of the US. Is this the same with Koni? I was thinking I might buy these from Carnewal but don't want to buy them if they don't have a warranty.

I would cut them as @ 8mm to fit the line in.

I wonder what got to them. Mine are on a '95 with double your mileage and still as good as new.

Not sure what whacked them. The car was a SoCal (w/ 6 months in LV) car all of it's life. The bushings were dry & cracked (think old rubber band). My wrench says, in part, its simply age & the weight of the car that causes the bushings to deteriorate & deform over time.

But my real point is, if you're replacing the struts/shocks - spend the modest extra time to pull the control arms & check.

OT - Alex, like your motorcycles & alps touring site. My last bike was a '76 Moto Guzzi 850 Le Mans. I owned it from 78 - 84; a lot riding time in Colorado, Utah, NM & (after re-assignment) mid-coast Cal. Sold it in '84 IOT buy a '64 356 SC coupe.

Is there a way to check these bushings without removing the control arms? Any photos or detailed instructions would be nice. I have looked at mine as best I can but it isn't obvious with them in the car.

The drop link dust covers needed replacment.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/1456/s15008.jpg

When removing the drop link be sure to use some liquid wrench at the hub and down below. These are exposed to the elements and cake up allot of crud. You don't want to strip these - it would be a real PIA.

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/818/s15007.jpg

I found a great source on EBAy for these (exact fit and inexpensive). For some reason these are hard to come by in the US:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150745546351...84.m1497.l2649

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4783/s15006.jpg

Here is a better shot of the refinished caliper. This one was in pretty bad shape - peeling and dull.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/345/s15001.jpg

Here is a picture on the dust covers and rubber stoppers that needed repacment - there is one of these for each strut/shock. The covers run @ $8 each and the stoppers are $16

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2962/s15003.jpg

The rubber gasket for the struts (black "Germany" rubbers) sit atop the strut tower.

Also, rember that the upper part of the strut is directional (red dot to the front) and I believe, right and left. Be sure to label these as you take them out upon removing the old struts.

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/2261/s15004c.jpg

Here is a picture on the rear shock partially installed:

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/9797/s15005.jpg

Mysuspension arms still need to be cleaned up a bit.

with them on the car the front one you can see only slightly up close and personal with a bright flash light, you may see tiny rubber cracks, ther rear I don't think I was able to inspect with the light. I think there is a way to use a breaker bar on them to see if there is abnormal play. but as mentioned above its a timing thing, might as well while you have it apart. And you'll "save" on doing the alignment once for the bushing/new shocks as opposed have to do it twice for what its worth.

rob

The shocks that we sell come with a 2 year unlimited warranty.
Any warranty case is handled through us and we solve the issue with Bilstein or Koni. We have quite a good relationship with these companies.
For Bilstein, we "invented" the HD with extra threads (now called B6XT) which is now the default 993 shock for the US market.
We helped Koni with them with the development of the Koni FSD for the 964 and currently with another project ....

At the time I removed the old struts. I noticed the front drop link covers were pretty messed up.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/6244/993s2012.jpg

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/6088/s16003.jpg

I found some replacements off EBAY.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3856/s16001.jpg

You have to make sure to get the correct diameters when ordering them.

bottom 25 mm
top 10mm
height 24 mm

The factory cover is held on the top by an O ring and on the bottom by a metal spring type ring. One you remove the metal ring retaining the OEM cover will be easy to get off. The replacement unit uses the larger rubber O ring shown which works well.

Before:

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/4969/s16002.jpg

After (after cleaning the metal with some degreasing solvent on a rag, under the rubber cap is alot of grease which you want to leaving in place.)

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/7118/s16004.jpg

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/2296/s16005.jpg

Reinstalling them is easy.

that is a really good tip. My front drop links were looking like yours, but I ordered up new from sunset. Who knew just boots were available? Live and learn.

rob

Rob, there are all sorts of boots available for many applications from Seals-It.

Thanks, I may want to reboot the rear toe arm as the boot is twisted permant like, but thankfully no cracks.

rob

The front struts are all installed.

59 ft pounds on the top mount
88 ft pounds on the small bolt down below
157 ft pounds on the large bolt

I inspected the control arm bushings and they are like new - car has @ 26K on it. Rubber is like new and there is no play.

The rubber on all of the boots was "as new" with the exception of the drop link boots which had taken a beating.

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/1241/s18005.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3974/s17002.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9789/s17003.jpg

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/8581/s17004.jpg

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/2855/s17006.jpg

The one rear shock is installed (with the exception of the drop link).

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8822/s17008.jpg

I just got word from KONI thay are sendingme the replacment one today - awesome customer service.

In the next weeks I should have the suspension all done, wheels on the car, and ride height set. It's then off to an alignment.

I mounted my turbo wing in the meantime, I decided to use a custom decal as opposed to a factory insignia.

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/3787/993016.jpg

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2043/s18001.jpg

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8365/s18002.jpg

Great work !!

So the Brit ebay seller will ship to the US ??
Final cost ?

The British EBAY seller that sold me the new dust covers for the drop links will ship to the US.

The total cost for a pair (shipping and PayPal fees include) was @ $12.

Looks nice but...
 

...your decal person spelled "Carrera" wrong.

That is hilarious. I looked at it late last night, and thought it looked off, like the Font is off. But, it is the spelling, perhaps, that makes it look wrong.

Easy to do, after all the years I still have to think twice. :icon501:
I used a vinyl decal on my duck tail. Various sizes available from these guys: http://www.acromann.com/index.php?ma...sort=2a&page=2

I have not been following this thread - good work so far.

Honestly, I do not like that sticker on the tail, it's does not look right with the rest of the car, I like the factory script much better. It may also look odd on a Turbo tail as well ( I am used to seeing "Turbo" there - haha).

Cheers,

Mike

Oh, well - time for a new decal (they peel off anyway).

I think I will loose the red accent, use a thinner script, and just balck - and use the correct spelling this time.

I have to adjust the gap on the driver's side - it is off a bit in the pic.

The old decal is now gone.

THX for the link - it's really a pretty nice site for Porsche realted graphics.

http://www.acromann.com/index.php?ma...sort=2a&page=2

My replacement shock from Koni came in after 3.5 weeks.

I used the downtime to:

1. Bleed the brakes and clutch (Motive works great)
2. Disconnect the rear spolier light (since I am now using a fixed wing)
3. Replace various air filters
4. Detailing



Koni provided great customer service. It took some time because they had to get a single shock from Holland (these things are ususally only sold in kits). I had previously cross threaded one of the shocks.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4269/s19002.jpg

I had cleaned and painted the drop links and rear sway bar.

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/1803/s19009.jpg

The old decal has been removed (spelling error).

One of the RL people gave me a link to a place that makes decals which are OEM correct in appearance, but a decal instread of a emblem.

The emblems have gotten pricey as of late. I new emblem with the 4S runs @ $130 now.

The decal (which looks the same (except it is flat) is $15.

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/3904/s19007.jpg

In the next week I hope to:

- reinstall my under trays
- get the wheels on
- set the height

The the Koni FSD/MO33 - the rear shocks (non adjustable) will determine the ride height (which should end up be @ 1 inch lower than stock).

Once the car is on the ground and after a 2 mile drive - you adjust the front height (taking into account the rear height).

Since the car will have:

- new springs
- new shocks/struts
- 996 hollow twist in place of the stock rims
- new tires

The shop doing the alignment will likely need to make several adjustments.

I will post some pictures when it is on the ground and the height is set.

So, I thought I had all the tools I needed. But when I went to transfer the rear drop link to the new shock I realized I didn't have the correct TORX bit. What size do I need?

T25

Thanks. What a pain not to have the right tool when you need it. Unless I run into other problems:banghead:, I should have the install wrapped-up next week and then off to my wrench to adjust height & alignment.

Yes I agree.

There are alot of special tools needed for this install:

- special sockets for the struts (or equivalent)
- Torx bits
- certain sizes of extension and ratchets

Doing this for the 1st time - it's a learning experience. In the future (f needed) it will be alot easier. the 2nd time around.

There cars are not the easiest to work on in terms of cramped spaces and exact tolerance of fit/threads.

It kind of gives you an appreciation of what shops often charge what they do.

That being said - having 3 months of winter downtime gives me plenty of time to play around and not rush things or get aggravated.

Agree w/ crw, patience and the right tools are key.

Finally got mine put back together today. I took a short drive this afternoon (~ 3 miles at less than 30 mph) and then later rechecked the torque on the fasteners easy to reach. All were fine. Tuesday it's off to my mechanic for front lowering and alignment (plus to check if I screwed anything up).

My thanks to crw, RL, and my mechanic (he encouraged me to go for it; said it would be a "bonding experience" w/ the car).

Other than having to cut up a couple of sockets for the tops, I'm not sure I'd say there are a "lot of special tools" needed? Although, I did mine 18 mos ago, and may be spacing on something. IIRC, a good set of tools would have you covered.

I finally wraped up this project:

Koni FSD shocks/struts

ROW33 Springs

New 996 hollow twist rims with new tires

Bled brakes/clutch/abs

Oil change

Cosmoline removed

Added Turbo spoiler

Refinshed calipers

Red dye of plastic trim

Cleaned every bit of crud off the under carrigae, wheel wells, and car

I took the car out for spin and it ran good - needs an alignment.

The ride height now is 146mm in the front and 129mm in the rear.

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/2192/s24005.jpg

I customized the spoiler a bit

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/5043/s24008.jpg


http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/6674/s24009.jpg

The driveway (not the car) is tilted.


http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/2615/s24004.jpg

Some final thoughts:

DIY suspension is labor intensive (if you have never done it before like me).

These cars are made with precision.

Thanks to all of the RL people who offered help and advice.

If anyone going this route needs help, advice, or suggestions - please PM me.

Driving season wil be here in less than 1 month!

Well, it looks pretty good. I really didn't find it that bad, on difficulty level. It does take some hours, but I'm not sure it is any tougher than upgrading a torsion bar suspension. Some parts of it, yes, some parts no.

When did driving season stop-did I miss a memo?? :D

I just did FSDs on my Turbo with Eibach springs and am very happy with the handling. It is a good alternative to the Bilstien and HR reds. Not as harsh a ride.

1 year later - ride is good as in the handling.

I have been very happy with the:

- ride height
- ride quality
- handling

I had Koni FSD's installed this summer. So far, I really like them. They are much more compliant over bumps and no degradation in handling IMO.

Has the suspension settled some over the past year?

upper part of the strut is directional
 

"upper part of the strut is directional" :confused:

Don't ask how I lost the rear "directional" markings but could you explain how to re-set the rear tops strut pieces back to stock "directional."

many thanks

Mine took about 2 weeks and a couple of hundred miles to settle. Since then it hasn't changed as far as I can tell. I have had mine on for about 9 months and about 1k miles.

Thanks for the first hand FSD-993 feedback. I'm following suit as a winter project. Our 993 coupe was fitted with the M033 spring set many years and miles ago; 2001. Ringing Gert at www.carnewal.com as we speak. Thanks again.

PS. I have 2 new LED bulbs (sourced from Gert) for the front parking lights as fitted to the Euro factory bumper/fog light assemblies lens. The bulbs are free to good home. First PM is a winner. These work just fine and appear similar to the factory Litronic HID lights when lit, just not my cup of tea. Update: There GONE to a Rennlist'r

^^ PM sent.

1pcarnut - Roger.
The bulbs have been claimed by another Rennlister. And you we're that close.

Just wanted to say this was a helpful thread as I just went thru my suspension for the first time. My stock Monroes were gone and I was getting a shimmy in the steering wheel due to worn control arm bushings. I did not go with the Koni FSD but went with the Koni Sports instead. My primary reason for this was that I wanted to retain my H&R lowering springs because I really like the stance. The Sports were recommended for lowering springs. Here is what I ended up doing on my car:
Koni Sports with H&R lowering springs
Walrod bushings in the front control arms (installed by Andreas)
Replaced one front drop link due to wear (stock Porsche)
Replaced both rear drop links due to wear (OEM)
Replaced both rear lower/toe control arms (stock Porsche)
Replaced the front strut bump stops as they were disintegrated (stock Porsche)
Replaced the plastic clips holding the brake sensors as they broke when removed (Porsche)

Have an appointment to have the car aligned at Johnson's in Torrance on Monday. Will report back once I have a chance to drive and experience the new set up.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...71dce651fd.jpg


New parts! Early Christmas gift to myself.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f57d0940fe.jpg



Control arms came back beautiful after Andreas installed the Walrods and bead blasted them!

Very interested in the update. Thanks for posting.

Today was alignment day. As promised, I am reporting back. Took the car to Johnson's to have Steve do the alignment. Before we get to my car, here are some photos of not 1 but 3 959's next door at Callas.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3103ef8f0b.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...49e01f1218.jpg

Okay, back to my car. This suspension refresh may be the best thing I have done to this car over this past year of ownership. Just to show how important it is to take these cars to someone who knows how to align them - Steve was dumbfounded with "whatever the prior idiot did" when they aligned my car. My car had H&R lowering springs on it but with stock Monroes. It looks like when the prior owner installed the lowering springs, the alignment was really messed up in the rear. It took Steve quite a bit of time to reset all of the bad adjustments that were done (something about adjustment up top that were pushed way out).
Anyway, here is the report on my set up. All I can say is wow. I cannot believe I am driving the same car. Thanks to the Walrods, the shimmy in the steering wheel is completely gone. Everything is now incredibly taut and responsive. This past year of driving on worn Monroes with a bad alignment and other worn suspension parts is now gone and I feel this car has been reborn! I am very impressed with the Koni sports. They are taut yet very compliant over bumps and in fact a bit softer than I expected. They are currently set on the softest setting, so I have plenty of range to tighten them up if I choose to. I chose the Konis because I wanted something close to stock sport and that would work well with lowering springs (I like the H&R stance). I also wanted something that looked fairly stock. The Konis look almost identical to the stock Monroes except they are yellow instead of green. I do not track this car so the better performance of Bilstein wasn't needed for me. The investment of time and money in this project was worth it.
Here is a shot of my car with Steve aligning it. I love the stance!

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cc1049a859.jpg

There was one casualty in this project. My teenage daughter decided to move one of my wheels and let it slam onto its face and destroy the new finish that was less than a few months old. I guess I need to get one refinished #&?!

that looks perfect!
cannot believe 3 freaking 959s

Bill did you have a chance to try a 993 with Bilsteins before buying the Konis?
What you describe about the Konis sounds very much what I'm looking for. I had been considering either the HDs or PSS10s but am concerned about a harsh ride.

Beautiful car BTW!

That looks like a SERIOUS alignment shop. Are those jerry cans of (sand? Lead shot?) for weighting the driver's seat?

No, I didn't get to personally drive a 993 with the Bilsteins. Wish I could have. I had read a few concerns with potential "harshness" of the HD's and the PSS10's just didn't make sense for my usage. The kicker was that I found a very good deal for the Konis during Black Friday. I was considering the Koni FSD based on all the positive reviews but they weren't recommended for lowering springs as well as the Sports. So far I am very happy with the set up.

Yes, those were being used for the corner balancing. This shop is considered one of the best in SoCal. Steve is well known in the local Porsche racing circles.

That is a great stance!

It would be interesting if you could post your ride height in mm from the factory measuring points - especially the back - since the Koni Sport rears are non adjustable (in height) and perhaps the H&R model number for rl-ers for future reference.

So I measured the ride height of my car. Wow, it is a lot lower than I thought it was. I love the look but am surprised how low it is now that I measure it out. I measured 108 front and 103 rear. Here is a pic of the springs. Now I do not know if they have settled since I am not sure how long they have been on the car (since 2000 if that is a date code on the spring). Again, I love this look but had no idea it was this low :rockon:

Bill, you might want to double check the factory measuring points. RS in the front is 124. 108 would be RS- 16 :eek: Not saying it is not possible, but that would be low! In your pic, the stance looks great, but it doesn't look like RS-16 up front, to me. Here is a couple pics by Bill V to double check where you are measuring from.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ce-points.html

Thanks for that link. I was measuring off the wrong bolt in the front but had the correct measuring point in the rear. Here is what I have:
Front: 117/118mm, and 24 9/16" at fender
Rear: 103/104mm, and 24 5/8" at fender

The car has almost zero rake - it is very flat.

I believe RS is 124 +/- 10 front, and 107 +/- 10 rear, so my car is in range of the RS settings but definitely set "flatter".

Here are a couple more pics of my car's stance. Not the best but do help show the "flatness"

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0639125efd.jpg



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...97072162dc.jpg

The car looks great!
Are you on stock wheel carriers in the front? No bump steer at that height?

Thanks :thumbup:

Everything is stock except for the Konis. No bump steer issues (at least anything significant that I have experienced to this point).

Hi guys, bringing this one up from the dead to ask if the pictures are missing for everybody else. None of pictures from crw are showing up for me...

After a lot of searching for a suspension install DIY this looked to be a pretty good thread. Any others elsewhere? Thanks!

Confirming they’re missing. What gives?

I’d bet he used a hosting site to link the pics. Never a good idea for longevity on a forum like this. People should just upload them tlcRL and they’ll be here for the duration.

Thanks Ed. Any idea if such a DIY is found elsewhere? I know there are other suspension install threads/DIYs, such as for PSS9/10, but would be helpful to see one about these fairly common Konis.