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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Default Spot the difference

Performed some recent upgrades to the interior of the car; in the below pic, there are 4 switch / electrical upgrades (not including the stereo). Can you spot them?

Ed
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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Circular gauge above the hazard/lock/exclamation mark lights
Extra circular **** above radio
That's all I've got!
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:53 PM
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Steering wheel
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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Pedals
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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^ I didn't consider those "electrical/switch" related...
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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2 out of 4 so far. The new **** above the stereo is the Rear Foglight switch; the gauge above the hazard switch is a Voltmeter. I wasn't counting the steering wheel or pedals; I consider those more "mechanical" upgrades.

2 more to go...
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Do I see a new switch on the far left?
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Toggle switch, left of steering wheel
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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and something to the left of that, can't make it out...
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 07:26 PM
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Ok. 3 out of 4. The toggle switch to the left of the steering wheel is the Oil Cooler Fan override switch. The last one is a tricky one as I didn't mention that the car doesn't have a rear wiper. The last one is the middle switch between the sunroof and rear spoiler. I used the sunshade switch for a Targa as the switch for a garage door opener. Thanks for playing!
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Now why would anyone install a voltmeter?

Since it isn't "on", how is it switched or where did you wire it into?
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Rear fogs.....is that an option on US cars or is that only on ROW?
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Alex, your earlier posts on voltmeters was highly informative reading. I followed them closely but wanted to do an analog gauge instead. I took some digital multimeter readings at the battery directly and found that if I wired the positive to the sunroof switch, then I got almost the same reading as at the battery directly (about 14.3v vs about 14.4 at the battery), so I figured this was close enough for an analog gauge. As a result, the gauge switches on with the ignition. The voltmeter required no cutting so I can easily revert back to stock if desired.

For the rear fogs and oil cooler switches, I followed the instructions on p-car.com; for the longest time, I only had the rear fog switch installed (just because that blank space was bugging me), but then went the whole way and ran the wires and bought the light sockets and put in actual rear fogs just like the ROW cars. Below are some close-ups.
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Last edited by ShdwFx; Jul 10, 2013 at 01:45 AM.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by efong
I figured this was close enough for an analog gauge.
It certainly is.

With what and how did you make the housing for the gauge?

BTW, if that gauge is like that on my old BMW motorcycle, there is a small hole in the back of the case so that you can slip a screwdriver into it to get to an adjustment pot (verify that first). Adjust it to be accurate at 14.2V from your viewing angle (due to parallax).

Nicely done!
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 11:13 PM
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Ed-- Excellent additions
Originally Posted by efong

Alex, your earlier post on voltmeters was highly informative reading.
+1 ^^
Originally Posted by IXLR8

With what and how did you make the housing for the gauge?
+1 ^^
Besides simply a mind for helpful upgrades, your attention to detail is impressive.
If you haven't already pursued: black oil cooler switch.
Originally Posted by Cowhorn

Pedals
I like what little I can see of them.
More?
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