skl2

So after several attempts to figure out the reason my varioram wasn't working, I finally located a loose vacuum hose under the dash (thanks to many people on this forum who helped). Boom, varioram was working again...but not for long. About a month later, I noticed the varioram was once again not working. Checked the hoses and everything looked fine. I had ordered a new vacuum check valve and figured I would just replace that, as it is one of the last things that could really go wrong.

Replaced it today...and still no varioram - at least in 2nd and 3rd gear. But, hit 4th and varioram kicks in! WTF is going on!? Riddle me this: If i just accelerate thru the gears, varioram does not work in 2nd or 3rd, but kicks on for 4th gear. Then, if I downshift to 3rd, it also works....but not if I downshift and run it from 2nd again. I am completely confused.

I hooked up the vacuum gauge to the TT hose (in the hole the hose to the tank typically goes) and apply vacuum...it slowly leaks out. However, if I start the car and then after 10 min disconnect the tank line into the TT hose, there is still suction. All 3 of the vacuum diaphragm mechanisms work on the varioram and hold vacuum. I have had it...Im about to yank the entire varioram out.

And, again, why the hell does it work in one gear, but not in the others....what am I missing or what do I not understand about this thing!?

TIA

skl

Hopefully someone can help with this- it is driving him nuts!!

I was riding with him today after replacing the check valve and the intermittent functioning is rather perplexing.... guess I'm glad my '95 didn't have Varioram, or OBD2 for that matter...

techman1

Not sure of the gears, but I did notice something that may be related to the vacuum at first startup. Does a valve open to pull from the charcoal canister on startup for a few minutes?

JM993

The system should either work or not regardless of what gear is chosen. You still have a vacuum leak which I suggest you track down first. Pressurize each inlet of the TT hose one by one. This will help you identify where your leak is. Once repaired, I'll wager your varioram should operate correctly.

Cheers,
Joe

JM993

OBD2 yes, but varioram is wonderful

skl2

Joe,

Exactly...that is why this one really has me stumped. It only works intermittently. I am now guessing there is something pulling more vacuum during the lower gear acceleration that goes away as you get to 4th, leaving enough for varioram to kick on? I have no clue, Im just hypothesizing now due to how mine is acting.

How would you pressurize? I dont have a smoke machine. I could use a vacuum cleaner or air compressor I guess? Is pressurizing more helpful than using my vacuum gauge?

JM993

Do you have or can you borrow a Mitivac? This is what I used to track down a vacuum leak when I converted my 95 to varioram. Connect the mitivac to each of the openings individually in the TT connector while pluging the other openings. This will allow you to pressurize each of the vacuum "circuits." The mitivac also has a vacuum gauge which will help in identifying which circuit is leaking (via pressure drop)

Hope this makes sense.

kjr914

Someone posted a method just in the last week or so using a vacuum as a blower to pressurize the system and use a squirt bottle of soapy water to find vacuum leaks (via bubbles forming).

As to your issue, just a wild guess, but could you have Varioram flappers sticking open in some gears so you don't hear it, then for some reason it unsticks and then opens properly in 4th?

skl2

Yes, I have been using a Mitivac and when I pressurize it shows a leak via a drop in pressure. But that really hasnt gotten me anywhere thus far because there are so many lines and I can't see behind the varioram unit. Ideally I would like to use my air compressor at low PSI to add pressure to the system and see if I can hear where the leak is coming from (or spray with some soapy water) to see bubbles.

Once you figured out which circuit was leaking, how did you narrow it down to the actual spot?

TIA

Paul902

There is a litte pi shaped vacuum connector behind the blower motor in the engine compartment that is known to collapse. GarthS has a writeup here about how to prevent it from collapsing using a spring inside. Have you checked that?

JM993

Once I narrowed it down to one of the four circuits, I inspected the vacuum lines from the leaky circuit and was lucky to find my leak (disconnected line). Ideally, it would be great to use a smoke machine to identify the leak. However, the process of elimination may work in your case. To start, which circuit is leaking?

skl2

Yeah, I modified my TT hose a while back to eliminate that possibility. Thanks.

skl2

I found the leak....or at least one of them. It is the actuator that activates the flap on the blower fan motor:


You can see I pulled the hose off and capped it with a screw. Varioram works as it should now. So, I think I need to order a new actuator...


Also, I noticed my blower motor turns on with the key now. It is always on when the key is on....which I know can't be right. Time to figure that one out....

MarkD

Kent,
Make sure you don't have the connectors swapped
The connector at the actuator can be swapped with the connector on the heater blower tube
This can cause the blower fan to run full time

skl2

Just checked the connectors and they are correctly attached. Blower motor runs all the time when the ignition is on (should have been more clear). Could this mean my relay is shot?

Also, do you guys sell the actuator that I show in my picture? It is the cause of my vacuum leak so I probably need a new one of those along with a blower motor relay, if that is my issue.