X-Post: 1995 Carrera C2, Grand Prix White on Black FS/FT
08-14-2012, 07:46 PM
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X-Post: 1995 Carrera C2, Grand Prix White on Black FS/FT
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***SOLD***
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.
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Changing directions, after debating heavily all summer I've decided I want to go with an early hot rodded car rather than build this one up. Asking $31,900, interesting trades welcome..clear Washington title in hand.
1995 Porsche Carrera C2, Grand Prix White on black leather, 96,000 miles. Mid year car with no immobilizer and OBD-II style port. I am the 4th owner, and I've got most records since 2001 and 22,000 miles or so (was maintained exclusively by Chris's German Auto since then). It has always been a west coast car, starting in LA and working its way up the coast over the years. Notable options: M030 suspension, Motor Sound package, Hi-Fi Sound. One of the first two owners added a limited slip differential, however I know nothing more than that it has one and was still tight when I had the transmission out.
I bought this car back in October to use as my daily driver and occasional DE utensil; I basically wanted something I could leave mostly stock and still have a blast in. Unfortunately my hot-rodding roots are too deep and I can't leave anything alone, so I've decided to cut to the chase and pursue an early lightweight car, rather than trying to build this in to one. I've had the car available for trade for a while but I think I just need to sell and buy another car outright. Price is firm, and interesting trades will be considered and modified cars are preferred (flares, engine swaps, converted 912's, R-Gruppe style, RS clone, etc etc).
This is a needs-nothing, fly in and drive across the country, "I'm going to regret selling" car. Earlier this year I put five figures and hundreds of hours in to this car ensuring it would never give me any trouble, and that is exactly what it has done for the past 9,000 miles or so; purely a gas and oil car. I basically took the PPI report and fixed everything that came up. Eventually the front control arm bushings will need to be replaced, but the car tracks perfectly straight, no odd tire wear and the steering wheel doesn't vibrate at highway speeds, I just noticed they were starting to split the last time I was under the car. A set of Elephant Racing sport bushings (nearly $400 worth) will go with the car. Any questions, ask away; I know this car virtually bumper to bumper and have nothing to hide. Inspections, PPI's and Rennfaxes are welcome.
Body wise, it's a very nice driver. It's got some flaws as you'd expect with a car with these miles. It shows well, but you don't have to think twice about driving it wherever you want. It has had paint work, from a couple minor incidents, once under the previous owner in the early 2000's, and I had someone change lanes in to me earlier this year. I don't have much on the first other than the passenger fender being replaced, but I had the shop doing the PPI check it carefully and they didn't see anything out of the ordinary or signs of structural damage/repair. There was nothing on the history report when I bought the car. I have pictures and body shop documents from my incident. The interior is in great shape, there are a couple scuffs on the back of the console and a tiny tear in the headliner by the sunroof, otherwise it's as pristine as an unrestored, 96,000 mile interior can get. No funny smells, mis-matched colors, etc.
In the December-January, 87,000 mile time frame:
- New windshield, trim, PIAA silicone wipers and the window frame was cleaned out and treated for rust
- New brake rotors, pads, stainless lines and ATE fluid; I was ready to rebuild the calipers but they were in great shape
- RS clutch and flywheel
- New master and slave cylinders, flex hose, and updated kinematic arm installed
- New seals: rear main, valve cover, cam cover, crankcase vent, oil pressure sender
- I was going to replace them, but the valve lifters all checked out OK
- 90K service stuff: air/oil/cabin filters, fan/alternator/aircon/power steering belts, oil change, plugs, caps and rotors
- Power steering system flushed by pulling the lines at the rack, Pentosin fluid
- New spark plug leads
- AC and Oil Cooler fan ballasts replaced, debris and such cleaned out while I was in there
- Dach Catted X-pipe with new O2 sensor and gaskets (still has the stock motor sound mufflers, stock cat comes with the car)
- SAI ports plugged (parts came off fine and come with the car)
- Two sets of Cup II wheels, the originals with Continental DWS, and another set poweder coated black with Conti DW's
- Little things like key light batteries, low beam bulbs, cleaned throttle body and ISV, etc etc.
- I have receipts for a new steering rack, distributor belt and brand new CV shafts at around the ~66,000 mile mark from Chris's German Auto
- Rear bumper and spoiler were re-sprayed and stone guards replaced
- Replaced the front fog lights with scoops (fog lights go with the car)
- Both tail light assemblies replaced, and center reflector polished
- Engine insulation pad was removed and all the adhesive removed (left the studs in case someone wants to put one back in)
- Lloyd's floor mats in front
- Steering rack brace installed
- Hood and deck lift struts were replaced just before I bought it
- I'm probably forgetting a couple little things
Other things of note:
- Low oil consumption, 1/2-3/4 quart every 2000-2500 miles
- Suspension is original; the rear is a bit soft but it still drives very well (must have a lot of highway miles)
- AC blows cool and dry; it won't blow ice cubes but it doesn't sound like HVAC is a strong point of the air cooled cars
- Aftermarket radio that I did not install or wire, but works well (Kenwood unit, amber lighting doesn't look too out of place, has USB/Aux inputs)
- Headlight switch and the console button lights are burnt out; I like it better this way (just the gauges lit at night), so I didn't mess with them.
- Came with an aftermarket air box lid, I don't have the original
- Also has a strut tower brace, I don't know what brand, but it looks nice and with some effort the trunk carpet fits over it
- Brakes make some noise sometimes, apparently this is fairly common. I have the old pads and rotors which were quiet and are still in good shape (~70%+).
.
.
***SOLD***
.
.
.
Changing directions, after debating heavily all summer I've decided I want to go with an early hot rodded car rather than build this one up. Asking $31,900, interesting trades welcome..clear Washington title in hand.
1995 Porsche Carrera C2, Grand Prix White on black leather, 96,000 miles. Mid year car with no immobilizer and OBD-II style port. I am the 4th owner, and I've got most records since 2001 and 22,000 miles or so (was maintained exclusively by Chris's German Auto since then). It has always been a west coast car, starting in LA and working its way up the coast over the years. Notable options: M030 suspension, Motor Sound package, Hi-Fi Sound. One of the first two owners added a limited slip differential, however I know nothing more than that it has one and was still tight when I had the transmission out.
I bought this car back in October to use as my daily driver and occasional DE utensil; I basically wanted something I could leave mostly stock and still have a blast in. Unfortunately my hot-rodding roots are too deep and I can't leave anything alone, so I've decided to cut to the chase and pursue an early lightweight car, rather than trying to build this in to one. I've had the car available for trade for a while but I think I just need to sell and buy another car outright. Price is firm, and interesting trades will be considered and modified cars are preferred (flares, engine swaps, converted 912's, R-Gruppe style, RS clone, etc etc).
This is a needs-nothing, fly in and drive across the country, "I'm going to regret selling" car. Earlier this year I put five figures and hundreds of hours in to this car ensuring it would never give me any trouble, and that is exactly what it has done for the past 9,000 miles or so; purely a gas and oil car. I basically took the PPI report and fixed everything that came up. Eventually the front control arm bushings will need to be replaced, but the car tracks perfectly straight, no odd tire wear and the steering wheel doesn't vibrate at highway speeds, I just noticed they were starting to split the last time I was under the car. A set of Elephant Racing sport bushings (nearly $400 worth) will go with the car. Any questions, ask away; I know this car virtually bumper to bumper and have nothing to hide. Inspections, PPI's and Rennfaxes are welcome.
Body wise, it's a very nice driver. It's got some flaws as you'd expect with a car with these miles. It shows well, but you don't have to think twice about driving it wherever you want. It has had paint work, from a couple minor incidents, once under the previous owner in the early 2000's, and I had someone change lanes in to me earlier this year. I don't have much on the first other than the passenger fender being replaced, but I had the shop doing the PPI check it carefully and they didn't see anything out of the ordinary or signs of structural damage/repair. There was nothing on the history report when I bought the car. I have pictures and body shop documents from my incident. The interior is in great shape, there are a couple scuffs on the back of the console and a tiny tear in the headliner by the sunroof, otherwise it's as pristine as an unrestored, 96,000 mile interior can get. No funny smells, mis-matched colors, etc.
In the December-January, 87,000 mile time frame:
- New windshield, trim, PIAA silicone wipers and the window frame was cleaned out and treated for rust
- New brake rotors, pads, stainless lines and ATE fluid; I was ready to rebuild the calipers but they were in great shape
- RS clutch and flywheel
- New master and slave cylinders, flex hose, and updated kinematic arm installed
- New seals: rear main, valve cover, cam cover, crankcase vent, oil pressure sender
- I was going to replace them, but the valve lifters all checked out OK
- 90K service stuff: air/oil/cabin filters, fan/alternator/aircon/power steering belts, oil change, plugs, caps and rotors
- Power steering system flushed by pulling the lines at the rack, Pentosin fluid
- New spark plug leads
- AC and Oil Cooler fan ballasts replaced, debris and such cleaned out while I was in there
- Dach Catted X-pipe with new O2 sensor and gaskets (still has the stock motor sound mufflers, stock cat comes with the car)
- SAI ports plugged (parts came off fine and come with the car)
- Two sets of Cup II wheels, the originals with Continental DWS, and another set poweder coated black with Conti DW's
- Little things like key light batteries, low beam bulbs, cleaned throttle body and ISV, etc etc.
- I have receipts for a new steering rack, distributor belt and brand new CV shafts at around the ~66,000 mile mark from Chris's German Auto
- Rear bumper and spoiler were re-sprayed and stone guards replaced
- Replaced the front fog lights with scoops (fog lights go with the car)
- Both tail light assemblies replaced, and center reflector polished
- Engine insulation pad was removed and all the adhesive removed (left the studs in case someone wants to put one back in)
- Lloyd's floor mats in front
- Steering rack brace installed
- Hood and deck lift struts were replaced just before I bought it
- I'm probably forgetting a couple little things
Other things of note:
- Low oil consumption, 1/2-3/4 quart every 2000-2500 miles
- Suspension is original; the rear is a bit soft but it still drives very well (must have a lot of highway miles)
- AC blows cool and dry; it won't blow ice cubes but it doesn't sound like HVAC is a strong point of the air cooled cars
- Aftermarket radio that I did not install or wire, but works well (Kenwood unit, amber lighting doesn't look too out of place, has USB/Aux inputs)
- Headlight switch and the console button lights are burnt out; I like it better this way (just the gauges lit at night), so I didn't mess with them.
- Came with an aftermarket air box lid, I don't have the original
- Also has a strut tower brace, I don't know what brand, but it looks nice and with some effort the trunk carpet fits over it
- Brakes make some noise sometimes, apparently this is fairly common. I have the old pads and rotors which were quiet and are still in good shape (~70%+).
Last edited by TravisB; 10-25-2012 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Uber late status update..
08-14-2012, 09:20 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
That's a good point and attitude.
I'm in 993 mode these days, but I spent 10 years and many thousand$ building Ruby, so I know from whence your mind is on the hot rod. You have me thinking-is it better to buy a project that someone else takes the haircut on, or a solid car needing TLC that you can build like you want, with your fingerprints on it. I guess it comes down to what you may stumble upon, in the end. You'll enjoy the ride, either way.
I'm in 993 mode these days, but I spent 10 years and many thousand$ building Ruby, so I know from whence your mind is on the hot rod. You have me thinking-is it better to buy a project that someone else takes the haircut on, or a solid car needing TLC that you can build like you want, with your fingerprints on it. I guess it comes down to what you may stumble upon, in the end. You'll enjoy the ride, either way.
08-14-2012, 09:43 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
^^^^^^^ Ha ha ha.
Anyway, guess this is where I'm confused. How many early 911s, in any form of "hotroddedness" have you driven? Funny that Ed is in on this thread. Fly down here and drive his old car, which is about as good as anyone is going to get without going off the cliff on a torsion bar car that's still streetable. But wow, would I want to be any further down on a learning curve than (literally) tens of thousands of track miles with a car like that if it were my only 911?
And don't kid yourself about total cost. Maybe your goal would be to make your present car into something like what I've got in the yellow car. Welcome to six figures........ And you're not that far behind with a torsion bar car, as Ed may or may not want to comment on!
I'm glad I have both to drive, and am actually doing so for the past month. Literally, it's whichever set of keys I pick up off the counter before sunrise. This week it's been the 4S so far.
Anyway, guess this is where I'm confused. How many early 911s, in any form of "hotroddedness" have you driven? Funny that Ed is in on this thread. Fly down here and drive his old car, which is about as good as anyone is going to get without going off the cliff on a torsion bar car that's still streetable. But wow, would I want to be any further down on a learning curve than (literally) tens of thousands of track miles with a car like that if it were my only 911?
And don't kid yourself about total cost. Maybe your goal would be to make your present car into something like what I've got in the yellow car. Welcome to six figures........ And you're not that far behind with a torsion bar car, as Ed may or may not want to comment on!
I'm glad I have both to drive, and am actually doing so for the past month. Literally, it's whichever set of keys I pick up off the counter before sunrise. This week it's been the 4S so far.
08-14-2012, 09:51 PM
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That's a good point and attitude.
I'm in 993 mode these days, but I spent 10 years and many thousand$ building Ruby, so I know from whence your mind is on the hot rod. You have me thinking-is it better to buy a project that someone else takes the haircut on, or a solid car needing TLC that you can build like you want, with your fingerprints on it. I guess it comes down to what you may stumble upon, in the end. You'll enjoy the ride, either way.
I'm in 993 mode these days, but I spent 10 years and many thousand$ building Ruby, so I know from whence your mind is on the hot rod. You have me thinking-is it better to buy a project that someone else takes the haircut on, or a solid car needing TLC that you can build like you want, with your fingerprints on it. I guess it comes down to what you may stumble upon, in the end. You'll enjoy the ride, either way.
Well, financially, buying someone else's former money pit is the only logical route to take (as evidenced by the bath I've taken on most of my prior 16 cars before this
). But I'm also a life long gear head and get a lot of satisfaction planning and executing my own projects and making them my own. I'll probably wind up with something in the middle this time around, with the big ticket items take care of (body, drivetrain) but other things to sort out and make "mine."But we'll just see what I turn up this time..I've got a couple candidates in mind, for once I might take my time hunting and see if I can turn up a just-right car, though I have some nice looking close-enoughs that are tempting!
08-14-2012, 10:03 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Great car, when I get a 2nd 993 a white on black one like yours is exactly what I will be looking for. Best of luck!
Depending on whether you want a "track car" or a very well sorted and "track worthy car" may be the difference between buying a nice low mileage car and spending $$$ on it. A highly used track car with stiff suspension etc is sure to have more creaks and groans and rattles than a more moderately driven one.
I see ups and downs to both and ultimately it depends on what the new owner wants to do. I could never turn my 993 into a full track car... I just love it too much. BUT I would love to buy one that's already gutted some day.
Depending on whether you want a "track car" or a very well sorted and "track worthy car" may be the difference between buying a nice low mileage car and spending $$$ on it. A highly used track car with stiff suspension etc is sure to have more creaks and groans and rattles than a more moderately driven one.
I see ups and downs to both and ultimately it depends on what the new owner wants to do. I could never turn my 993 into a full track car... I just love it too much. BUT I would love to buy one that's already gutted some day
.
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08-14-2012, 11:30 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Not 6 figures, but more than 1/2 way there!! 
08-14-2012, 11:36 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
But the yellow car was. Glad I wasn't paying those initial bills. Just think what you could depress yourself over on yours if you put even minimum wage in the labor column?
Realistically (and I probably should start a different thread), if you're not doing the work yourself but being reasonable with a builder, and source the parts as best you can figuring some new/some used..........for a competent 993 you're probably $30-40K, and a torsion bar car $20-30K. Plus the price of your unmolested donor chassis that doesn't need any paint or bodywork.
Realistically (and I probably should start a different thread), if you're not doing the work yourself but being reasonable with a builder, and source the parts as best you can figuring some new/some used..........for a competent 993 you're probably $30-40K, and a torsion bar car $20-30K. Plus the price of your unmolested donor chassis that doesn't need any paint or bodywork.
08-15-2012, 11:20 PM
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08-15-2012, 11:44 PM
#14
Congrat's Travis. That was quick.
How bout this for a replacement?
http://www.cantrellmotorsport.com/in...ale&Itemid=109
How bout this for a replacement?
http://www.cantrellmotorsport.com/in...ale&Itemid=109
08-15-2012, 11:49 PM
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Tis true, tis true..although looking back I think this is the only white on black car I saw when I was looking. I guess that's what they make paint and vinyl/leather dyes for eh? Hah..