gtroth

Ok, I am in the midst of replacing the clutch kinematic lever (clutch pedal not always returning fully, changed the slave already which worked for a year or so). Going smoothly, but I see the bellows on clutch master cylinder is torn. Can we get a replacement for that? It's not in PET and the dealer says 'comes with the cylinder'.

k722070

the master cylinder is only 75 bucks or so.
I'm going to suggest that finding the correct bellows and taking your current cylinder apart to replace the bellows is more time and money than just buying a new cylinder.
plus once the rubber was torn probably dirt and grit got into the current cylinder making it sticky and in need of replacement.

IXLR8

The bellows comes with the clutch master cylinder. Mine was torn as well after 16 years.

I replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders as well as the hose last winter. I also cleaned, greased and rebuilt my pedal assembly.

Pics are here if you need to see what items look like or how they go together.

daltvater

I replaced my clutch master and the bellow lasted less than a year before tearing again!

gtroth

Well, I wasn't planning to R&R the clutch master cylinder, but now I think it's a good idea to do it while I'm here.
The DYI is pretty weak on this point ( '(8). Remove the two bolts that secures the master cylinder, and remove the master cylinder' ), but of course you have to remove the spring assembly first in order to access one of the nuts, as discussed in the FSM. Unless I am missing a trick?

IXLR8

You do not need to remove the spring assembly to rebuild the pedal assembly or to remove the clutch master cylinder. And I had all parts of the pedal assembly removed except for the spring and parts associated with the spring.

Here is a pic with the spring still in place and tensioned...

DanL993

Jesus Alex, this stuff is great!! I struggle just to bleed that freakin' slave cylinder, and you get pics like this....amazing.

Thanks for the help.

gtroth

Ok, so how do we remove the nut that's to the left and a little behind the master cylinder?

k722070

I used a socket, extension and wobble attachment and came in parallel to the master cylinder.

IXLR8

Dan, I usually don't buy into too many things (no secret here), but that Motive Products Power Bleeder is a nice tool to have. You can use it "wet" as intended or you can modify it for dry use...I like putting my tools away clean and I hate cleaning up at the same time.

I got mine at Pelican Parts.

A bit of time spent taking pics and writing up a thread is time well spent if it clarifies a DIY for other members.

IXLR8

I rebuilt the pedal assembly and had it all apart last winter, so going on memory...

Take the locknut off the right side first; the one that is easily accessible.

Then I think I used a 13 mm 1/4" drive socket, a 1/4" drive universal and a 1/4" drive extension to loosen and remove the locknut on the left. As you are loosening that last locknut, pull the clutch master cylinder away from the bracket to maintain the clearance you need at the locknut.

gtroth

Thanks, fellas, I'll give it another go. Things do get easier when you know it's possible :-)

gtroth

Yeah, piece of cake, took less than a minute. 1/4 drive socket was the key (I'm a dope sometimes I guess). Plus u-joint, plus 3" extension. Thanks again

DanL993

I have one and use it wet after placing plastic and towels all around it and checking frequently; still a challenge to get my hand, the bleed tube and the wrench all up there at the same time...but I'm getting better.

At any rate, the DIY stuff is great....thanks again.

IXLR8

Anytime!

BTW, although I did replace my kinematic lever, I never had any issues of the clutch pedal hanging up with the original lever. I would suspect either air in the clutch system (how does it get in there if not there in the first place) or a need to make an adjustment. BTW, without the hydraulics connected, the clutch pedal will go over-center and remain "floored" when you activate it...so don't be surprised at that.