Need feedback on rollbar install...
07-09-2012, 08:45 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Need feedback on rollbar install...
I'd like to participate in some DE events. VIR is two hours from my home and it's an amazing track I'd like to get out on. I've researched DAS products and they have a kit specifically for my Cab. In fact, DAS is about an hour from my house and they have an installer located right near them.
Here's what I need some feedback on:
* Has anyone with a Cab installed a DAS bar? Are you happy with it?
* Is it truly "removable" or is that a stretch? I don't want the bar in the car all the time, just for DE days
* Will it harm the value of my car considering there needs to be holes drilled and backing plates installed on the floor behind the front seats?
* Is it worth getting a Cab on the track based on the less rigidity inherent in a Cab - meaning will I potentially do damage to the car with the loads that will be put on it
No need to give me the "buy a coupe" line, I've always wanted a Cab and I'm not selling her!
Thanks in advance for your input...
Here's what I need some feedback on:
* Has anyone with a Cab installed a DAS bar? Are you happy with it?
* Is it truly "removable" or is that a stretch? I don't want the bar in the car all the time, just for DE days
* Will it harm the value of my car considering there needs to be holes drilled and backing plates installed on the floor behind the front seats?
* Is it worth getting a Cab on the track based on the less rigidity inherent in a Cab - meaning will I potentially do damage to the car with the loads that will be put on it
No need to give me the "buy a coupe" line, I've always wanted a Cab and I'm not selling her!
Thanks in advance for your input...
07-09-2012, 10:46 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
I know of people who have used the DAS in pre 90 911's, and were happy. I'd say go enjoy your car. You won't be fast enough to notice any difference driving a cab when you're starting DE's. You'll have too big of a grin on your face. The same can be said about older Targas, but when I started track time several years ago, one of the fastest guys in the faster group was a bone stock '84 Targa. As to drilling holes, it isn't the end of the world, but it isn't going to increase the value of your car.
07-12-2012, 06:52 PM
#3
If you disclose track use to a potential buyer, it will decrease value. However, do what you like and do not worry too much about the next owner. DAS products are good but with everything, they might need some force to line up mounting holes. This operation should be much easier in a cab because you have more and better access with an open roof. Not sure if you need new mounting hard ware with every install. I would check on that with DAS.
07-12-2012, 08:25 PM
#4
Drifting
<edit>Sorry, my comments are related to a coupe bar. Cab bar doesn't have the no-drill option it appears, but on the plus side, is much easier and quicker to pull out with the top down. I stand corrected. 
</edit>
Q#2 - It is not "removable", unless by removable you mean 2-3 hours is acceptable. Do some searching as there is a thread or two on this topic.
Q#3 - Simple solution: Get the DAS bar that doesn't require drilling and mounts to the seatbelt reel mount points and the rear seatback mounts. It requires dis/re-assembly of some interior bits, but nothing too bad.
</edit>Q#2 - It is not "removable", unless by removable you mean 2-3 hours is acceptable. Do some searching as there is a thread or two on this topic.
Q#3 - Simple solution: Get the DAS bar that doesn't require drilling and mounts to the seatbelt reel mount points and the rear seatback mounts. It requires dis/re-assembly of some interior bits, but nothing too bad.
Last edited by kjr914; 07-13-2012 at 05:39 PM. Reason: stoopid moment
07-13-2012, 11:07 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Q#2 - It is not "removable", unless by removable you mean 2-3 hours is acceptable. Do some searching as there is a thread or two on this topic.
Q#3 - Simple solution: Get the DAS bar that doesn't require drilling and mounts to the seatbelt reel mount points and the rear seatback mounts. It requires dis/re-assembly of some interior bits, but nothing too bad.
Q#3 - Simple solution: Get the DAS bar that doesn't require drilling and mounts to the seatbelt reel mount points and the rear seatback mounts. It requires dis/re-assembly of some interior bits, but nothing too bad.
07-13-2012, 11:53 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
And don't worry about a few holes in the floor. Nobody will care.
07-13-2012, 02:45 PM
#7
Drifting
https://www.dassport.com/store/produ...-1989-to-%2798
Note the "wings" on the bottom crossbar, versus the flat bolt-in plate. Search up here on RL, you can get one used for about $600, and they pop up all the time. Shipping is cheap/easy with Greyhound.
I'm not so sure about that. Personally, I'd rather buy from somebody who has done a few track events because you'll know that they took reasonably good care of their car. They looked after important things like oil changes, brake fluid, wheels, etc. because they staked their safety on it while on track. And they likely had a qualified mechanic inspect it for their safety and (likely) fixed anything important.
And don't worry about a few holes in the floor. Nobody will care.
And don't worry about a few holes in the floor. Nobody will care.
Before I was more knowledgeable, I looked at, and stayed away from, a car with "holes in the floorpan under the seat" (description from my Mom who was looking a car over for me on the other coast since it was near her. She actually drove the sales guy a little nuts since she gave it a thorough "rennfax", pulling up carpets, looking under it, in the trunk, asking lots of questions, noting any little imperfection and crawling up underneath it...Sales guy would never have expected that from a 70+ year old lady. Hilarious! Mom rocks! I digress....)
Trending Topics
07-13-2012, 03:06 PM
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm a PCA national instructor and have had a 993 cab until just this year and now a 993 coupe, both with DAS rollbars.
Most of above is correct, especially the just get out and try it advice, though the link:
is for a coupe. Guessing he just missed that you are talking for a cab. They are VERY different, with no common elements between them.
Install is pretty easy. I did it myself. Biggest thing is to be level before you drill. I also saw that there was a used one for sale here, so you could probably save a ton, even with shipping.
I could install or remove in about 35-45 minutes, and did that cycle probably 30 times, as this is also my family car. Tricks:
Initial install: make sure it is level, and drill a small pilot hole in the center first.
Subsequent install/removal:
- Make sure you seal up the bottom plate with silicon or something, and then always mount the bar with the bolts from the top.
- When out, reinsert the bolts so the holes are plugged and the plate stays on.
- Get a short ratchet strap to slightly bring the rear bars (where they mount to seat belts) closer together during install and removal. Otherwise it is so snug it is hard to line up, and catches on the carpet. The ratchet strap cut at least 15 min out of both install and removal.
- Obviously do this with the top down and the windstop removed. I never needed assistance...I could do with just one person.
- Don't worry too much about the harness guide loops...they don't line up nicely with the seats anyway.
It is a VERY simple install/removal. I wish the coupe bar was so simple.
Most of above is correct, especially the just get out and try it advice, though the link:
is for a coupe. Guessing he just missed that you are talking for a cab. They are VERY different, with no common elements between them.
Install is pretty easy. I did it myself. Biggest thing is to be level before you drill. I also saw that there was a used one for sale here, so you could probably save a ton, even with shipping.
I could install or remove in about 35-45 minutes, and did that cycle probably 30 times, as this is also my family car. Tricks:
Initial install: make sure it is level, and drill a small pilot hole in the center first.
Subsequent install/removal:
- Make sure you seal up the bottom plate with silicon or something, and then always mount the bar with the bolts from the top.
- When out, reinsert the bolts so the holes are plugged and the plate stays on.
- Get a short ratchet strap to slightly bring the rear bars (where they mount to seat belts) closer together during install and removal. Otherwise it is so snug it is hard to line up, and catches on the carpet. The ratchet strap cut at least 15 min out of both install and removal.
- Obviously do this with the top down and the windstop removed. I never needed assistance...I could do with just one person.
- Don't worry too much about the harness guide loops...they don't line up nicely with the seats anyway.
It is a VERY simple install/removal. I wish the coupe bar was so simple.
07-13-2012, 03:20 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Before I was more knowledgeable, I looked at, and stayed away from, a car with "holes in the floorpan under the seat" (description from my Mom who was looking a car over for me on the other coast since it was near her. She actually drove the sales guy a little nuts since she gave it a thorough "rennfax", pulling up carpets, looking under it, in the trunk, asking lots of questions, noting any little imperfection and crawling up underneath it...Sales guy would never have expected that from a 70+ year old lady. Hilarious! Mom rocks! I digress....)
Does your mom have a paint gauge meter?
07-13-2012, 05:15 PM
#10
I have a DAS bar in my wife's 96' tip cab.It is there just for safty reasons.When she wrapped her first 96' Tip Cab around a electric poll the DAS saved her life.When I removed it from the wreck ,30 minutes at most with the top down,the car twisted itself within 12 hours. The DAS unit only needed to be repainted to install in the replacement 993 Cab I bought her.If it took anyone three hours to remove a DAS Cab unit they may be a little slow in the head.It is removable for real.I would not let her drive a car that was originally designed over 50 years ago without it.Some of the stuff written above is absolutely incorrect and written by men who have never owned a DAS product.PM me if you would like to see pics of my wife's wreck.
07-13-2012, 05:19 PM
#11
Drifting
(the webpage title doesn't discern cab/coupe "964 - 993 Porsche DAS Sport Bolt-In Roll Bar 1989 to '98", but if I'd read the first sentance...ugh). I stand corrected. As well, I was quoting removal time for a Coupe bolt-in-removable bar. Glad to hear the cab is much easier. I stand corrected again....
Nope, but a pretty good eye for detail! I was overly impressed with her thorough-ness, given that she isn't a "car person" at all. Guess she was just takin care of her lil' boy...
And now, back to cabs and DAS bars....
07-13-2012, 05:36 PM
#12
Drifting
I have a DAS bar in my wife's 96' tip cab.It is there just for safty reasons.When she wrapped her first 96' Tip Cab around a electric poll the DAS saved her life.When I removed it from the wreck ,30 minutes at most with the top down,the car twisted itself within 12 hours. The DAS unit only needed to be repainted to install in the replacement 993 Cab I bought her.If it took anyone three hours to remove a DAS Cab unit they may be a little slow in the head.It is removable for real.I would not let her drive a car that was originally designed over 50 years ago without it.Some of the stuff written above is absolutely incorrect and written by men who have never owned a DAS product.PM me if you would like to see pics of my wife's wreck.
You sir are incorrect as well...I do own a DAS bar. As I wrote above, my experience is with the bolt-in-removable Coupe bar. Since the OP was talking about a cab (which is a bit different), I stand corrected
on a few points (see above post). Good to hear that the bar really did its job for your wife.
07-15-2012, 12:35 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm a PCA national instructor and have had a 993 cab until just this year and now a 993 coupe, both with DAS rollbars.
Most of above is correct, especially the just get out and try it advice, though the link:
is for a coupe. Guessing he just missed that you are talking for a cab. They are VERY different, with no common elements between them.
Install is pretty easy. I did it myself. Biggest thing is to be level before you drill. I also saw that there was a used one for sale here, so you could probably save a ton, even with shipping.
I could install or remove in about 35-45 minutes, and did that cycle probably 30 times, as this is also my family car. Tricks:
Initial install: make sure it is level, and drill a small pilot hole in the center first.
Subsequent install/removal:
- Make sure you seal up the bottom plate with silicon or something, and then always mount the bar with the bolts from the top.
- When out, reinsert the bolts so the holes are plugged and the plate stays on.
- Get a short ratchet strap to slightly bring the rear bars (where they mount to seat belts) closer together during install and removal. Otherwise it is so snug it is hard to line up, and catches on the carpet. The ratchet strap cut at least 15 min out of both install and removal.
- Obviously do this with the top down and the windstop removed. I never needed assistance...I could do with just one person.
- Don't worry too much about the harness guide loops...they don't line up nicely with the seats anyway.
It is a VERY simple install/removal. I wish the coupe bar was so simple.
Most of above is correct, especially the just get out and try it advice, though the link:
is for a coupe. Guessing he just missed that you are talking for a cab. They are VERY different, with no common elements between them.
Install is pretty easy. I did it myself. Biggest thing is to be level before you drill. I also saw that there was a used one for sale here, so you could probably save a ton, even with shipping.
I could install or remove in about 35-45 minutes, and did that cycle probably 30 times, as this is also my family car. Tricks:
Initial install: make sure it is level, and drill a small pilot hole in the center first.
Subsequent install/removal:
- Make sure you seal up the bottom plate with silicon or something, and then always mount the bar with the bolts from the top.
- When out, reinsert the bolts so the holes are plugged and the plate stays on.
- Get a short ratchet strap to slightly bring the rear bars (where they mount to seat belts) closer together during install and removal. Otherwise it is so snug it is hard to line up, and catches on the carpet. The ratchet strap cut at least 15 min out of both install and removal.
- Obviously do this with the top down and the windstop removed. I never needed assistance...I could do with just one person.
- Don't worry too much about the harness guide loops...they don't line up nicely with the seats anyway.
It is a VERY simple install/removal. I wish the coupe bar was so simple.
07-15-2012, 12:44 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have a DAS bar in my wife's 96' tip cab.It is there just for safty reasons.When she wrapped her first 96' Tip Cab around a electric poll the DAS saved her life.When I removed it from the wreck ,30 minutes at most with the top down,the car twisted itself within 12 hours. The DAS unit only needed to be repainted to install in the replacement 993 Cab I bought her.If it took anyone three hours to remove a DAS Cab unit they may be a little slow in the head.It is removable for real.I would not let her drive a car that was originally designed over 50 years ago without it.Some of the stuff written above is absolutely incorrect and written by men who have never owned a DAS product.PM me if you would like to see pics of my wife's wreck.