Michaelc

Did a search, nothing on this. While doing some brake work this afternoon I noticed that my dry billet valve covers were leaking from one of the allen bolts. Because I had everything off for the brake work I decided to loosen up the valve cover and retorqued it. When I retorqued one of the bolts I noticed it wouldn't tighten up. I removed it completely to find a continuous string of metal filling the threads. I knew what had happened, but tried to reinstall it none the less, without any luck as the case is stripped. Any suggestions as to how to navigate this unfortunate circumstance?

matt777

I would look into helicoiing. Perhaps someone here has done this on a valve cover bolt. I have used helicoils elsewhere.

kjr914

subscribed. I've got one of these as well... :bandhead:

Quadcammer

Hows the access?

If its good, a helicoil is probably the easiest. A timesert would be better, but for such a low torque bolt, the helicoil will probably be fine.

race911

I go for a Timesert nearly always over a Helicoil. Both from strength of repair (though as pointed out, not necessarily a problem here), and getting the repair done on-center/in-line, standpoints.

And just to be clear, this stripped thread is in the cam carrier, not the case. Right?

Michaelc

The stripped thread is in the cam carrier housing in my case.

JM993

You can also create threads using JB Weld. Coat the bolt with JB Weld and insert into cam carrier. Use something to apply pressure to the bolt to ensure it stays full inserted. The JB Weld will harden and you will be able to unscrew the bolt. Reinsert to check the repair will take torque.

I've used this method to fix a friend's stripped aluminum engine (water pump) that would have otherwise necessitated pulling the engine. This should work fine for a low torque valve cover bolt.

Cheers,
Joe

Michaelc

All of this is very helpful, i'm still considering my options.

BobbyT

+1 Joe's suggestion on the JB Weld. I know this sort of repair sounds pretty redneck/shade tree, but JB Weld is amazing stuff.

Garth S

I've also had successful outcomes with this approach. JB works well, as does a 'thread maker' by Loctite.
Spray the hole with brake cleaner first & dry with compressed air to make it oil free - this gives the JB a better chance to bond to the parent metal.
A release agent on the bolts threads can help ..... and once the new threads have cured, file or grind the bolt a mm or so shorter: that way, the bolt will not bottom out in the new hole when you tighten down on the VC.

kjr914

Thanks for the further ideas!

As for using a shorter bolt, the extra thickness of the valve cover (chain cover, etc) should prevent bottoming out IF bolt was put in as deep as possible during the thread making process, without the cover on. If you don't or can't have the cover off, your idea of cutting off a bolt would have to be used.

Michaelc

Upon further inspection of the bolt I removed I am of the opinion the PO either used a helicoil or some JB Weld at some time previously to my gasket change/valve cover replacement 2 years ago. The material in the bolt was continuous when I unraveled it from the bolt. A timesert would be ideal in my case, but I may try the JB Weld first. I ran the motor today after tightening up the other bolts ever so slightly. No leak so far, we'll see what happens!

Jwolf427

Any update on the outcome using jb weld? I have the same issue with one of the bolts on the valve cover. Also, which Would be a good release agent?




Thanks, jwolf427

race911

See my post #5, above.

With a Timesert being so easy, why half-*** a repair?

Jwolf427

I didn't want to do any drilling to the head, but if its really easy, I will have my brother give me a hand with it this weekend. He is a way better mechanic than I am.