gtroth

Great write up and looks like great choices on the materials.

csmab

Resurrecting an old thread!!! I just tried this DIY project with good results. I followed Bruce7's instructions and had no issues. I added a little more dynamat covering 20% more of the lower door compared to the section where the original strip was located. I took my trusty RadioShack sound meter and measured 2 db - 2.5 db reduction in sound at 80mph on our lovely Dallas concrete highways. The doors sound more solid and you can definitely tell that there is less noise being transmitted into the interior. The speakers also sounded a little better. To be honest I didn't do a great job removing all of the old glue. I used the heat gun to help press in the dynamat. I can't imagine this stuff is going to peel off. The same for the VB2 since the heat helps it mold into place. The original sound proofing strips were still attached really well. The edges were starting to curl so I just peeled the edges off. The rest of the material was still holding well and was just about impossible to remove so I just left it. Since I cut my dynamat pieces much larger there was plenty of door surface for good adhesion going over the original damping sheet. Now you can just hear the great sounds of the engine vs the unwanted road noise.

M. Schneider

A development focus of the 993 chassis when building on the 964 chassis was a reduction in overall NVH; noise, vibration and harshness.

The Bruce7 strategy is that to the power of 10 which works in good measure to reduce the interiors noise floor. Having followed Bruce7's lead on my coupes doors, a natural progression was to the rear side quarters and behind the rear seats. Yeah,,, 21lbs extra pounds of acoustic mats in the mid-section,, however for me its worth the refinement in noise character. But what about those overly loud mufflers?
Yeah,,, that's a different kind of noise.

billqj

Photo link doesn't work.....?

csmab

Photo link still works for me.

CeeTwoS

Great write up. I just pulled my panel on the passenger side to solve a rattle that turned out to be either a broken piece of plastic from the storage box that fell inside or the speaker wire rattling. Could not tell which one. Now that I have a solution to the plastic vapor barrier I will definitely feel more confident in removing that if I need to in the future!

Thanks again for the great write-up!

csmab

Since I had leftover dynamat I tackled the section behind the rear seats on the interior side of the engine wall. Wow...another step in the right direction. The road noise coming up through the engine bay is significantly less. This sounds weird but the whole car feels and sounds more solid. Bumps and expansion joints are more muted. When I took it for a test drive I ended up cruising around for 2 hours since it sounded great. I used one door kit which was enough to cover the lower section of the doors and the engine firewall. I did not do the quarter panels since I am now satisfied. No...I am not trying to turn the car into a Lexus. If you are on the fence you should just do it. I don't know any Porschephile that wouldn't like the results. At least I think so. The weight of one door kit is negligible. The Porsche essence and sounds are all still there.

JB 911

Nice work Craig, with data too. Did the 2dB drop include the rear section? Or was that doors only?

Hey, if I mow your yard for a month, will you do this mod to my car too

csmab

Jamie,

The 2db drop was prior to adding the soundproofing to the rear. I measured again and I was getting at least a 3db drop if not a little more. You have tackled much bigger projects than this. This is a "1" on the difficulty scale.

Sagres74

For the speaker cups to work properly, you have to open a port (hole) in them to allow air to move in and out. Take a look at a standard set of house speakers and you'll see the same.

I installed Dynamat, foam cups, and new speakers a while back. Everything sounds great as well. Here's the link, in case anyone is interested. https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...rovements.html

ReinerFink

Nice writeup! I went in for the M666 Door Motor Sound Package option by just removing all of the old stuff

Also got rid of the speakers while I was in there... if I can get the rear speakers out, then I might make it below 3000lbs

-rener

luckyJ

Craig, congrats on tackling this project...I'm about to start as well, but was wondering what I'm suppose to do w/ the VB5...looked over Bruce7's instructions but wasn't clear where to apply this....

thanks

s2racer

great write-up, and I'm in the middle of replacing the door handle gaskets. A couple of questions, though: as good as the VB2 and Dynamat are for sound deadening, how is the VB2 as a moisture barrier, and can you pull the VB2 off if I need to get back in there sometime?

Thanks....this is a great place.

Marc

bruce7

Marc, good questions and now with sufficient time having passed I would not recommend doing it. I have since replaced the VB2 with the factory moisture barrier. The reason being for just what you asked about removing it to access the door internals. I have had to put the car into the body shop 3 times and during the process they have ripped up the panels. And I myself had to get in there to replace a door lock cover that somehow disappeared. The factory panel is easy to peel down for access and to press back on. I would stay with the factory panel.

KMASS993

You could always put back on the factory moisture barrier and put the Dynamat on the door panel instead.