clib

I am starting to do this after experiencing overheating with just street pads. I have a C2S and used pagid yellow pads for a DE recently. I removed the sensors and antisqueal spiders but kept the antisqueal plates on the OEM pads only - nothing on the pagids (and boy are they LOUD).
For those that switch out track and street pads I have the following questions:

1) when you switch back to street (and again back to track) do you go through an identical bedding in procedure each time and for each setting?
2) when you swap pads what do you do in terms of brake maintenance. I blew out brake dust and cleaned the rotors and outside of calipers with brake cleaner.
-Do you clean inside the calipers each time?
-Do you use sometime of antiseize on the pad plate edges to prevent binding?
-Do you always put the same pad in the same location (right, left, inner outer etc).
3) Do antisqueal plates on the pagid pads help?

thanks very much. Just want to do things to preserve longevity and keep things as quiet as possible.

JPS

Looking forward to some of the answers myself.

I bed new pads, but don't when swapping.

I swap often. At the end of each day on the track, I wait until I'm CERTAIN the rotors are fully cool and either blow out the vents or hose them out.
No antiseize, yes I keep track of each pad and always put them back in the same location.

jscott82

1) Ideally you would swap rotors and pads as set. If not, you should re-bed them.
2) Before each event (regardless of whether you swap pads) thorough inspection (clean if needed to facilitate the inspection) and brake flush.
ideally pads should go back where they came from, just mark the pad with a sharpie.
3) Do not put the squeal shims or sensors in with track pads

Falcondrivr

I leave the spiders in for both sets of pads, only because they are a pain in the *** once they are out. I number the pads and always put them in the same place. As for bedding them in, for the track pads, they are fine after a lap or 2. For the street, I can't really do a proper bedding as I have a trailer attached when leaving the track, but it's an hour and a half home, so they are usually pretty good by the time I get home.

Kein_Ersatz

Great and timely thread.

So what to do with the wear sensors when using track pads?

The front sensors on big reds don't fit the Yellow Pagid pads, looks like the pads I got have the same slot as the big red rears senors. In the rears, the sensors for street pads snap into a grove in the pad backing, on the fronts, the sensor fit into a whole in the pad edge, by the slot in the pad backing.

So I zip tie the sensors and wires out of the way.

clib

thank you for the responses. The spiders on my original OEM pads were stuck solid to the pads, so in scraping them off they were done for and to simplify pad changes I did not replace them. On the street pads with just the damping plate I don't notice any squeal without them.

For the sensors I figured I could look at my own pads easy enough and better know when they are getting worn so I followed the DIY by Ray Calvo on cut the wires short on the sensor leads and shorted them together to avoid a signal. Without sensor and spiders it makes swapping as easy as removing the wheel.

Falcondriver - what set up do you have for a hitch/trailer?

Bill Verburg

JMO, but why bother swapping for the limited amount of summer street use these cars see.

I use Pagid yellow, currently RS 29 but in the past RS19 w/o spiders, as long as you keep the parts clean there is zero to no squeal, just flush them w/ a hose if they become too noisy, then thoroughly air dry them before you park the car for an extended period

trophy

I am not a fan of swapping, as Jeff said if you ware wanting to swap they really should be swapped as a set. I have run Pagid blacks for years and even for the occasional street driving i find them fine (noisy, but fine)

I don't run sensors or spiders...

TheOtherEric

No to everything you suggest. Specifically:

clib

thanks again. interesting and good to hear at least some consensus on some of the points.
My car is also my daily driver so it gets a fair amount of stop go and commuting. While I didn't try just cleaning-flushing/driving after the track they were squeaking so loudly on the trip home, it would be hard to imagine it would go to a tolerable level. But I will try again after the next track day and hope to be pleasantly surprised.

Bill Verburg

The end sliding edges of the pads should have a dab of anti seize

Falcondrivr

With Performance friction 97s, my car sounds like a garbage truck. Maybe 2 garbage trucks. It is absolutely intolerable on the street. Makes your ears hurt with the windows up, kind of squeal...the extra 10 minutes to swap pads are nothing since I'm swapping wheels at the same time.

clib

can you describe that trailer and hitch set up??

Falcondrivr

Willwood hitch that I got from a RLer, attaches to the bumperette supports, and a Harbor Freight trailer.

Paul902

For now I am swapping pads. I put them in the same position every time, and bed them in every time (especially when putting the track pads in), Once my street pads are used up, I'll likely experiment with running the Pagids all the time.