Intermittent start problem
#1
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Intermittent start problem
A couple of months ago I was running some errands. When I came out after a few minutes my car, 97 993, would not start. It would crank but not start. Called AAA for flat bed. After about 20 min. Tried it again and it fired right up. No probs until today. Drove into my garage and a few min. Latter it would not start. Waited an hour still no start. Any thoughts?
If it does not start in the morning I will call AAA. Any service recommends in St. Louis? RWM
If it does not start in the morning I will call AAA. Any service recommends in St. Louis? RWM
#2
Three Wheelin'
I'm actually having the same problem with my 97. If you get out and "jiggle" the positive battery cable it usually solves the problem. My car has an aftermarket dealer installed alarm and stereo. I suspect these are the problem
#3
Rennlist Member
It could be that stupid clutch safety switch at the base of the pedal cluster. Could be out of adjustment or faulty. Do a "search". Plenty on the subject. On second thought, I'll take that back. If it were the clutch switch, you'd get no cranking...just instrument lights.
#4
#5
Rennlist Member
I had similar problems: car would not re-start after sitting ~5 mins, but would re-start after 15 mins or more. Aggravated by hot weather.
Replaced fuel pump and filter (fuel pump was also making a loud buzzing noise). Result: better, but not fixed.
Replaced crank position sensor. Result: fixed
- Dave
Replaced fuel pump and filter (fuel pump was also making a loud buzzing noise). Result: better, but not fixed.
Replaced crank position sensor. Result: fixed
- Dave
#6
My '98 C2S has this issue sometimes. It usually happens when the engine isn't warmed up. I may cause it accidentally by releasing the key at initial start-up just before the engine fires. Thereafter it cranks but doesn't fire at all until it sits for a while. I got two new fuel pump relays but removing/reinserting or swapping them doesn't always work.
I've scheduled a diagnostic visit with my indie next week. Hopefully, it's something simple like the CPS. I'll post results.
I've scheduled a diagnostic visit with my indie next week. Hopefully, it's something simple like the CPS. I'll post results.
#7
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Looks like I am going to flat bed car for service. Any st Louis people have experience with Reid vann. You can email me direct if there is any concern about posting online. rwm@att.net
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#8
Had the same issue last year on a 96... tried DME... no good...It also got bad on hot days, especially after AX...
Check the ground strap from batter to body... they frey... but for me it was just the starter. Not a fun job, since you basically have to reach around with both hands around the tranny, while lying on the ground.. The top bolts are all feel..
Good luck.. bet its the starter...
Check the ground strap from batter to body... they frey... but for me it was just the starter. Not a fun job, since you basically have to reach around with both hands around the tranny, while lying on the ground.. The top bolts are all feel..
Good luck.. bet its the starter...
#9
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Flat beded the car to the local P dealer. DME was shot. $275.00 have a nice day! Thanks to all who replyed RWM
#10
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So, the dealership (either Kirkwood or Creve Coeur) charged you about $200 to install a $65 dollar relay. This takes about 90 seconds to do.
Anyone who owns or recently purchases a 993 should almost reflexively, replace the current DME relay with a new one, and still carry a spare in the passenger's side pocket. Wish I had 2 years ago.
#11
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98 c2s Just had my AC evaporator replaced an I dont know if related having some serious similar problems, car was running fine and all of a suden (two ocasions) the thing quit and would not start till aprox 10-15 minutes later. On that incident at highway speeds even tried to start it by engaging de clucht with the ignition on but the thing seemed like it was having a mayor electrical failure. On the second event it quit at a stop light, once it started the Fuc... imobilizer light was flashing. I kind of rule out the Fuc... imobilizer because why would the stupid thing kick in after the car is running fine???? on both ocasions the car would crank but it seemend like there was no spark on the engine. I am scared to use it serious troubleshooting headed my way. Any guides would be welcomed ( Ihave found several threads to start with. Thanks
#12
Rennlist Member
Simply installing a new relay that has issues to start with, will only fail for the same reason one day. And it isn't the contacts that fail; its the sub-standard solder joints on the board. All it takes is a few minutes with a soldering pencil. I re-soldered both my old and new relay.
#14
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Yes, it was the relay. No I did not get the old one back. Is this going to be a reoccurring issue? RWM
#15
Rennlist Member
But I'd find a local RLer who knows what they are doing as far as soldering properly is concerned and re-solder all connections on the circuit board, even on the new relay.
Go back and ask for the old relay. That'll save you the cost of getting a new one as a spare. Open it up, inspect the contacts and if they are fine, just re-solder the board contacts. I bet it'll be more reliable than a new relay.