Consider a 993 w/180k?
#17
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It really dosn't matter about mileage. Its condition condition condition. ALWAYS BUY ON CONDITION!
Really don't know why people sell for way less if one of these cars has done over 100k ish. It really is the difference between a 20k car and a 40k car with say 20k on the clock. I have seen some right dogs with low miles. These cars like to be driven and throw hissy fits when there not used for what the Germans intended them for (and thats not a garage queen).
Really don't know why people sell for way less if one of these cars has done over 100k ish. It really is the difference between a 20k car and a 40k car with say 20k on the clock. I have seen some right dogs with low miles. These cars like to be driven and throw hissy fits when there not used for what the Germans intended them for (and thats not a garage queen).
#18
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I would agree with most that if no records of an engine rebuild or refreshed suspension or clutch etc, I would say mid to upper teens is max. If the aforementioned items were done, low $20s. If you need to put $10-15K into the car, you will still have a super high miler with a total outlay in the upper $20s to low $30s. Hmmmm. Does this make any sense?
#20
Race Car
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If your question is about the health of the engine, a PPI with leakdown by a good 993 shop should tell you what you need to know. My car has 160K with no engine rebuild. However, I have replaced the suspension, clutch and flywheel, front bumper cover, seats, brake rotors and pads, AC evaporator, and other various small stuff. I have always assumed it was an ~ $22K car, if I was to sell, of which I have no intention.
I bought it for $24.5K 5 years ago with 118K on the clock, full maintenance history, down to every smog test since new. It has been one of the most reliable cars I've owned. BUt one has to stay AHEAD of the maintenance. If you get behind the curve, you're ****ed. I have a spreadsheet with every dollar spent on my car since new, including oil, tires, etc. It works out to about $2000 per year to keep her in top shape. However, I do most stuff myself, on a buddy's lift. It would be easy to double that figure at a shop.
As others have said above, condition and maintenace history are more important than miles if you are buying something to drive. If you are worried about depriciation or investment value, look for a differnt price range. Or better, have your head examined.
I bought it for $24.5K 5 years ago with 118K on the clock, full maintenance history, down to every smog test since new. It has been one of the most reliable cars I've owned. BUt one has to stay AHEAD of the maintenance. If you get behind the curve, you're ****ed. I have a spreadsheet with every dollar spent on my car since new, including oil, tires, etc. It works out to about $2000 per year to keep her in top shape. However, I do most stuff myself, on a buddy's lift. It would be easy to double that figure at a shop.
As others have said above, condition and maintenace history are more important than miles if you are buying something to drive. If you are worried about depriciation or investment value, look for a differnt price range. Or better, have your head examined.
#21
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Thread Starter
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UPDATE!
I spoke with the mechanic today. He told me some interesting tidbits about the car:
-A/C non-functioning est. $2k fix
-odometer did not work for an unknown period of time(assumed to be 3-5k miles)
-lower valve covers replaced 10k miles ago
-new Bilsteins Fall '09
-3 of 4 axle boots? replaced within last 1k
-new SR seals, and rollers
-recent paint work (described as 10 footer)
-fresh clutch
-records since '98 at this shop
-no top end work completed
-alarm sounding intermittently since aftermarket radio install
- Stated to be a well-maintained "daily"
Opinions? I'm thinking $15k take it or leave it or am I nuts to even consider it further. Waiting on PPI for further input.
Thanks!
I spoke with the mechanic today. He told me some interesting tidbits about the car:
-A/C non-functioning est. $2k fix
-odometer did not work for an unknown period of time(assumed to be 3-5k miles)
-lower valve covers replaced 10k miles ago
-new Bilsteins Fall '09
-3 of 4 axle boots? replaced within last 1k
-new SR seals, and rollers
-recent paint work (described as 10 footer)
-fresh clutch
-records since '98 at this shop
-no top end work completed
-alarm sounding intermittently since aftermarket radio install
- Stated to be a well-maintained "daily"
Opinions? I'm thinking $15k take it or leave it or am I nuts to even consider it further. Waiting on PPI for further input.
Thanks!
#22
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Saddle River, New Jersey / Corolla, NC
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Dude, if I were in your shoes, I would seriously consider a 964 in primo condition, instead of a tired 993.
I just traded in my cherry 48K mile 1990 C2 Cab for 25K. I know you could find a very nice onefor less than that !
I just traded in my cherry 48K mile 1990 C2 Cab for 25K. I know you could find a very nice onefor less than that !
#24
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#25
Three Wheelin'
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15k sounds about right, but think about where you will be if you buy it for 15. I bought a 97 C4S with 175k last year for 16k, but I knew what it needed. Look at what the car will cost in the end. The higher the mileage, the longer they take to sell. I don't have anything against high mileage, in fact I prefer cars that are driven, but it is just how the market is. If the car cost 15 and you think it will need 10, look at cars that are 25, and see if this one still looks like a good deal at 25.
Just my .02 worth. I enjoy working on them, which helps the cost. Mine only cost 16k, but she is getting a full restoration.
Good luck with your quest.
Emerald
Just my .02 worth. I enjoy working on them, which helps the cost. Mine only cost 16k, but she is getting a full restoration.
Good luck with your quest.
Emerald
#26
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Thread Starter
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Decision made.
This car is not for me. The mechanic sent me an email that says the option sticker from under the hood is gone also(paint work). There are just too many things adding up in my head.
Even if you put $10k in it, the car would only be marginal in my opinion.
However, if any DIY's want a race car donor, let me know and I'll pass along the info. It seems like a good candidate, and I think it could be bought in the middle teens.
This car is not for me. The mechanic sent me an email that says the option sticker from under the hood is gone also(paint work). There are just too many things adding up in my head.
Even if you put $10k in it, the car would only be marginal in my opinion.
However, if any DIY's want a race car donor, let me know and I'll pass along the info. It seems like a good candidate, and I think it could be bought in the middle teens.
#27
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I bought (and still own - now with 194K) a 180K '98 C2S. It was also very well maintained, but it did have a top end around the 130K mark. I agree that you should have a PPI done and if the car checks out I would not pass based on the mileage. For reference, I paid low $20's.
Here she is:
Here she is:
That's so awesome!!! I want to do that with my 997! That to me is what it's all about! And the higher the miles the higher the true bragging rights!
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