Do I need a top end rebuild - UPDATE Compression and Leak Down Numbers are in.
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Do I need a top end rebuild - UPDATE Compression and Leak Down Numbers are in.
I may have a major issue with the Rivi Blue Cab. I had the car sold because I have been wanting a 997 C4S Cab. The car was sold to a Rennlister and we pretty much had the deal done without a PPI. I told the buyer the car was in excellent shape, and it is, and didn't need anything.
On occasion I get a drip on the floor especially after a long run. I went out to the garage last night and was preparing to re-torque the valve cover gaskets because I assumed the drip was coming from there. Well it's not. From my poking around I think it's coming from one of the cylinder bases.
I called my mechanic and he pretty much said if the leak was coming from a cylinder head base the motor has to come out and a top end would be the only real remedy. The car has 104,000 miles
Of course, he needs to look at the car on Wednesday to assess the problem, but I just want to see what my options are. My mechanic said he would advise against re-tourquing the head bolts especially with the miles on the car.
Any ideas from the 993 fold? I have sent PM's to everyone that PM'd me about the car as well as the buyer regarding the issue. I have a feeling I'm getting ready to stroke a big check.
Mike
On occasion I get a drip on the floor especially after a long run. I went out to the garage last night and was preparing to re-torque the valve cover gaskets because I assumed the drip was coming from there. Well it's not. From my poking around I think it's coming from one of the cylinder bases.
I called my mechanic and he pretty much said if the leak was coming from a cylinder head base the motor has to come out and a top end would be the only real remedy. The car has 104,000 miles
Of course, he needs to look at the car on Wednesday to assess the problem, but I just want to see what my options are. My mechanic said he would advise against re-tourquing the head bolts especially with the miles on the car.
Any ideas from the 993 fold? I have sent PM's to everyone that PM'd me about the car as well as the buyer regarding the issue. I have a feeling I'm getting ready to stroke a big check.
Mike
Last edited by Arena993; 03-17-2012 at 01:16 PM.
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
Juha G
I poked around as much as my limited knowledge will take me. My oil consuption is not bad at all. The car runs strong, no smoke on start up, and I just passed emissions 2 weeks ago with flying colors.
Mike
I poked around as much as my limited knowledge will take me. My oil consuption is not bad at all. The car runs strong, no smoke on start up, and I just passed emissions 2 weeks ago with flying colors.
Mike
#4
You don't need to rebuild the motor because of a cylinder base gasket leak, unless it's heavy. An occasional drip is not a big deal, especially not on a car with 104K. Just factor it into the sale price of the car. My car has had a base gasket weep for years. Only time I even remember it's there is when I'm under the car and can see that the bottom of the engine around the leak is damp. Lotta stuff I'd spend money on before that...
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
You don't need to rebuild the motor because of a cylinder base gasket leak, unless it's heavy. An occasional drip is not a big deal, especially not on a car with 104K. Just factor it into the sale price of the car. My car has had a base gasket weep for years. Only time I even remember it's there is when I'm under the car and can see that the bottom of the engine around the leak is damp. Lotta stuff I'd spend money on before that...
Mike
#7
No, two entirely separate things....leakdown/comp tests the health of the combustion chamber (rings and valves). You've got a minor cylinder base gasket oil leak. This is where the cylinder slips into the case. There are no mechanical or performance side effects. It is what it is -- an occasional drip on the floor, nothing more. Would be a problem on a low-mileage garage queen, but really not on a 104K mile driver that you're not trying to get top dollar for.
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#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
I hate to sound stupid here as I am no mechanic, but the leak is on the left side (driver's side) of the motor on the middle cylinder as best I can tell. Don't know what number cylinder that is.
Well that makes me feel better. Of course, I was trying to get my mechanic to diagnose over the phone. I will definitely know what's up on Wednesday. Fingers crossed.
Mike
No, two entirely separate things....leakdown/comp tests the health of the combustion chamber (rings and valves). You've got a minor cylinder base gasket oil leak. This is where the cylinder slips into the case. There are no mechanical or performance side effects. It is what it is -- an occasional drip on the floor, nothing more. Would be a problem on a low-mileage garage queen, but really not on a 104K mile driver that you're not trying to get top dollar for.
Mike
#9
Nordschleife Master
I do get a occasional drip. I guess when he does the leakdown/cpmpression test that will tell us a lot more. My leak is also seen at the bottom of the engine case where damp, but I'm getting a drip. I already have the car priced at wholesale and can't reduce it anymore. We'll just see what happens on Wednesday.
Mike
Mike
My car passed compression/leakdown and smog no problem and it was more than a drip .. and it didn't burn any oil in 2000 miles before I changed the fluids .. I was told I could drive it like that indefinitely and if I hadn't sent it to 9m .. I probably would still be driving it like that. FDM charges $5K for a top end rebuild so there's a benchmark number for you ... I mean, you could just replace the gasket .. but it would be silly not to take the next steps and just do the top end ... IMHO you should negotiate a deal with the buyer on cost for the repair and let them make the call on when it should be done ... like you wanted my opinion, right?
#10
Race Car
Thread Starter
When I bought the Widebody Cab .. I had the same issue. I dug into it and found a TSB on '97/98 MY cars. Of course, your's isn't a defective gasket but just a worn out one ..
My car passed compression/leakdown and smog no problem and it was more than a drip .. and it didn't burn any oil in 2000 miles before I changed the fluids .. I was told I could drive it like that indefinitely and if I hadn't sent it to 9m .. I probably would still be driving it like that. FDM charges $5K for a top end rebuild so there's a benchmark number for you ... I mean, you could just replace the gasket .. but it would be silly not to take the next steps and just do the top end ... IMHO you should negotiate a deal with the buyer on cost for the repair and let them make the call on when it should be done ... like you wanted my opinion, right?
My car passed compression/leakdown and smog no problem and it was more than a drip .. and it didn't burn any oil in 2000 miles before I changed the fluids .. I was told I could drive it like that indefinitely and if I hadn't sent it to 9m .. I probably would still be driving it like that. FDM charges $5K for a top end rebuild so there's a benchmark number for you ... I mean, you could just replace the gasket .. but it would be silly not to take the next steps and just do the top end ... IMHO you should negotiate a deal with the buyer on cost for the repair and let them make the call on when it should be done ... like you wanted my opinion, right?
I know you said I could just replace the gasket, but I am thinking along the same lines you are. If I'm going that far I need to go all the way. I'll see what my mechanic says. I think he was along the same lines of thinking it would be foolish to do all that work for just a gasket.
If I did spend 5K on a rebuild how much value does that add to the car, $2,000.00-$3,000.00?
I love cars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mike
#12
I just bought my car, and the there was a slight leak at cylinder 1 which showed on the PPI. It didnt bother me as a buyer, and I havent spotted any drops on the ground. I've also driven it 2k miles in the past month without the oil level changing, which confirms the guides are good which was my main concern. I wouldnt do a thing, and I wouldnt take much off the selling price, if anything at all. A base leak isn't progressive (it wont get any worse over time), as long as it's only a drop or two here and there. The only senario where it might cause concern/aggrivation is if I had a really nice garage and wanted to keep the floor immaculate. But as others have mentioned, at 104k mi it's not a queen. I'd be happy to talk to your buyer, I was in their shoes last month.
#13
Rennlist Member
No, two entirely separate things....leakdown/comp tests the health of the combustion chamber (rings and valves). You've got a minor cylinder base gasket oil leak. This is where the cylinder slips into the case. There are no mechanical or performance side effects. It is what it is -- an occasional drip on the floor, nothing more. Would be a problem on a low-mileage garage queen, but really not on a 104K mile driver that you're not trying to get top dollar for.
Bummer, Mike. Great to see such public honesty with the car you're selling.
#14
Race Car
Thread Starter
Here is some info I found. When I bought the car in 10/08 I had my mechanic do a cylinder leakage test. At the time he felt like it was a strong motor and said to leave it alone, as far as a top end rebuild was concerned.
At 95,072 Miles
Cylinder #1 - 3%
Cylinder #2 - 1%
Cylinder #3 - 1%
Cylinder #4 - 8%
Cylinder #5 - 2%
Cylinder #6 - 3%
This was right off the truck and driven 17 miles to his shop. The car now has 4 years and 9,641 more miles since the leakdown was done. These numbers may have nothing to do with my leak, but any information is helpful.
Mike
At 95,072 Miles
Cylinder #1 - 3%
Cylinder #2 - 1%
Cylinder #3 - 1%
Cylinder #4 - 8%
Cylinder #5 - 2%
Cylinder #6 - 3%
This was right off the truck and driven 17 miles to his shop. The car now has 4 years and 9,641 more miles since the leakdown was done. These numbers may have nothing to do with my leak, but any information is helpful.
Mike
#15
Nordschleife Master