What should I expect in terms of maintenance on my new to me 993
#16
You do not need to spend $3500 on springs and shocks, there are sets like lowered EOM springs and shocks (m030 and HD's) for about $1700.00 plus install or you can just buy shocks, like the Koni FSD's for about $1000.00 plus install.
One word of caution when reading posts here, you don't always have to get caught up in the "must have" items that many subscribe to. If you plan on keeping this car for a while, enjoy it, read a lot here and pick away at the updated/upgrades over the years of ownership. There are often less expensive ways to keep your car in good shape, without having to go directly to the most expensive option. If the car has been sorted with all the repairs to date, the car shouldn't cost more than a couple of thousand a year to maintain, tops.
One word of caution when reading posts here, you don't always have to get caught up in the "must have" items that many subscribe to. If you plan on keeping this car for a while, enjoy it, read a lot here and pick away at the updated/upgrades over the years of ownership. There are often less expensive ways to keep your car in good shape, without having to go directly to the most expensive option. If the car has been sorted with all the repairs to date, the car shouldn't cost more than a couple of thousand a year to maintain, tops.
#17
Nordschleife Master
just to be clear, $1600/year is for maintenance only. I separate "performance" mods from maintenance.
HIDs, RS splitters, RS skirts I put in the performance category, as that is money I didn't have to spend.
oil, filters, tires etc... is maintenance.
I have spent roughly another $1500/ year on "mods"
this year will probably be high as I plan to do a LWF and motor mounts.
HIDs, RS splitters, RS skirts I put in the performance category, as that is money I didn't have to spend.
oil, filters, tires etc... is maintenance.
I have spent roughly another $1500/ year on "mods"
this year will probably be high as I plan to do a LWF and motor mounts.
#19
At 43K miles, clutch replacement is premature. I am coming to 60K mark and my clutch is fine. Check out the history of the car and the owner. You cannot go wrong with a 993 provided it has been take good care by the previous owner.
Georj
1997 C4S
Georj
1997 C4S
#20
Should I be conserned that the car needs a clutch, springs and possibly synchro 2-3 work on a car with 43K mileage. It is 15 years old after all. I friend who knows much more then I do about 993s seems to think it was driven by someone who really did not know how to drive a manual transmission to require replacing the clutch that early. I have seen numerous cases of clutches at this mile, would it make sense that if he did not address it soon enough that would explain the synchros going? I know that can be an expensive proposition to rebuild the gear box. Also was told that if the springs are bad, there is a good chance the shocks are too, looking at 3,500 for that piece alone.
Not sure what to think
Not sure what to think
For sure a new clutch at 43k miles is premature.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...placement.html
If the syncros are really gone your friend seems to have nailed it, PO doesn't know how to drive a manual trans.
There is a refreshed gearbox currently for sale for $4k (look for the thread by 'onefstm'.) Buying that and having the shop pop that one in, then reselling the original might be a good way to go. Maybe not, if you want to keep the car original.
The springs don't usually 'go', but if the shocks are original they're likely toast.
As for what'all to do during the drop search for threads with terms like 'while in there' and threads with 'clutch' or 'drop' in the title. Like; https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...o-be-done.html
If you post your location you will get suggestions for local shops for the PPI.
#21
Rennlist Member
If what came on the Porsche is so crappy, which it is not, how would the car get such great reviews when it came out? If you have money to blow unnecessarily, then the sky is the limit.
BTW, as for clutches, if they are driven normally, you can easily get 200K miles out of one. My daily driver has 135K miles on the clutch...mostly city driving which is where they wear out quicker.
#22
Rennlist Member
Most items aren't "must haves" unless the part really wore out or someone who is a dedicated track junkie wants to get that extra split second off their lap times.
#23
It sounds like the car has been mistreated in the past. If the PO did not want to spend the money to change the clutch so that it would go into gear properly what else has not been done. I think you are getting in over your head. If you need to set aside money to do normal maint and wear and tear items 993 ownership is not for you. Just yesterday someone posted that they were selling there car because they lost there job. This person was financially negligent and should never have bought the car in the first place. The car could easily cost you $10,000.00 or more in the first year to get things up to speed if you are going to have the work done by a P-shop. Again I think you are getting in over your head. Just because you have saved up the 30 plus thousand to buy the thing does not mean you can truly afford it. Everyone on this site gets angry when I bring this issue up. It is a very relevant issue and one that you should think about seriously. If you are thinking of financing the car you ,most certainly, should get yourself out of the deal.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Clutch at 43k is early but not unheard of. Syncros is very suspicious. And if the tranny/engine are being dropped, now is the time to do something about the syncros or factor in BIG budget to fix that. Don't know what the seller is asking, but this sounds like an expensive car regardless.
In terms of maintenance, cabs have additional costs for the top ($2000-4000 when it needs to be replaced), motors, cables, and adjustments. That probably averages an additional $300/year.
In terms of maintenance, cabs have additional costs for the top ($2000-4000 when it needs to be replaced), motors, cables, and adjustments. That probably averages an additional $300/year.
#25
Nordschleife Master
I have 91K on my car with the original clutch. if it needs replacing at 40K, the car was likely tracked, and/or abused or driven by someone that doesn't know how to drive a manual shift.
#26
I think it's more abuse than track work that impacts the clutch.. I definately dont ride the clutch at the track, it's more of an on/off button I have 250,000 KM on my mini with the original clutch.. lots of track work and outlasting lots of others who dont go to the track - car is still super tight and no issues.
Myth about tracking cars? Other than the additional chassis\suspension stress it puts on the car i think the environment at the track is much better vs daily driving.. you are smoother, much more aware and maintain the car better. Brakes and tires are out of the window
phil.
Myth about tracking cars? Other than the additional chassis\suspension stress it puts on the car i think the environment at the track is much better vs daily driving.. you are smoother, much more aware and maintain the car better. Brakes and tires are out of the window
phil.
#27
Nordschleife Master
I agree with element, track does not necessarily imply abuse. Due to the high RPMs of track driving, the margin of error is smaller, but then again, there are some really good drivers out there too.
in any event, it doesn't really matter what the cause is/was, if it is broken, it needs to be fixed.
in any event, it doesn't really matter what the cause is/was, if it is broken, it needs to be fixed.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for you guidance
The car goes in to the Indy shop on Friday for an inspection
I asked them to pour over these components and give me a worst case bid to make the repairs. I have spoken to a porsche dealer and 4 indy shops and all of them seem to concur that the clutch work at this mileage is not that unusual. They all seemed surprised that the springs would need work, most likely the shocks. Some seemed conserned about the syncros, others thought it might be improper fluid. I can swing typical repair bills of 1600 per year but not 10K. Maybe I am better off in a 997, less risk of buying an abused car?
The car goes in to the Indy shop on Friday for an inspection
I asked them to pour over these components and give me a worst case bid to make the repairs. I have spoken to a porsche dealer and 4 indy shops and all of them seem to concur that the clutch work at this mileage is not that unusual. They all seemed surprised that the springs would need work, most likely the shocks. Some seemed conserned about the syncros, others thought it might be improper fluid. I can swing typical repair bills of 1600 per year but not 10K. Maybe I am better off in a 997, less risk of buying an abused car?
#29
Nordschleife Master
No not really. I think the probability of buying an abused car is completely independent of the year and model, and each purchase is a unique draw.
you can lower the risk by
1. having a PPI done
2. getting to know the seller (assuming private sale)
3. purchasing from a reputable seller, i.e. Truspeed, Holt, although that service carries a premium.
you can lower the risk by
1. having a PPI done
2. getting to know the seller (assuming private sale)
3. purchasing from a reputable seller, i.e. Truspeed, Holt, although that service carries a premium.