IXLR8

To the OP, and to add to that important step:

• when removing the battery terminals, unbolt the negative battery clamp first
• when installing the battery terminals, tighten the negative battery clamp last.

That prevents you from becoming a expert arc welder should your wrench on the positive terminal accidentally make contact with ground.

Tape up the negative battery clamp so that it cannot make accidental contact with the battery while you are working on the starter or alternator. BTW, you only need to disconnect the negative battery clamp.

Garth S

Reassembly goes faster than opening the patient for surgery ... 2 hrs is OK if the M5 screws and fan bearing don't give you grief.
Re the latter, a soft faced hammer or 3 prong puller may be required - depends on whether the bearing sticks to either the alt shaft or the fan ( add +20min if stuck to both + 15 min walking around the garage cussing).
If the fan remains on the alt shaft, carefully cradle the pair in your lap while working on it - the fan blades are reasonably fragile and $$$. If you need to tap on the end of the alt shaft, replace the nut proud of the end such that it takes the force ( protects threads), and suspend the alt vertically over your lap/pillow such that the alt bearings are protected from the 'shock wave'.

To see the wiring, the alt, fan, and fan housing must be free to move rearwards and tilt down slightly: the domed plastic cap ( ~4" diameter) is held on by three 10mm nuts - and must come off. Reach inside the cavity to remove cap, and then disconnect the 3 wires - note orientation of cap to alt & alt to housing for reassembly.

Unlikely that the wiring is just loose - possible, but more likely that a fresh regulator/brush set is req'd. Still, the whole deal must come apart to verify.

If you get stuck, give me a shout.
As Alex said, insulate the detached ground strap .... it makes for a spectacular, smokin' 200 amp welder if a wrench gets in the way ...

geolab

Or if you have a burnt chip in the parietal lobe like I do,
you could use this method

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...n-car-diy.html

Magdaddy

My quest started because I wanted to inspect the fan. I thought I might have a crack like another RL'er had a photo of. So, I get the triple square bit-cut it down to fit...go buy the 24mm wrench, I only had a set up to 23. Wow, that 24mm nut was tight!

Next step the three 5mm allen bolts-a little PB Blaster, and as much of a "rap" with a hammer I can put on the allen socket. One comes right out, the other two strip very easily. Insert Ilko comment here"be careful, those bolts are made of cheese"

So, Andreas suggests a damaged bolt removal kit that he got at Sears. Kinda like an extractor kit-a 3/8 socket type thingy with reverse thread cutters inside that grab the shoulder of the bolt. There is a Sears Hardware 5 minutes from my house, go there...it's even on sale for $10.

Bolt #2 comes out right away with the extractor...but bolt #3 is a bitch. More PB Blaster, more shots with the hammer and screwdriver, and finally it comes out.

Well, thankfully the fan appears fine, no need for a new one(sorry Andreas) My alt belt had about a 1" chunk of teeth missing, the other two look fine. They were changed 18K ago...less than two years ago. I had planned on replacing them all at the 90K service this summer. Well, those will get done now.

The fan bearing isn't as smooth asI imagine it should be, so I'll be pulling the alt/fan next.

Also got the front bumper cover off to replace the beading that the body shop F'ed up when they installed the Euro turbo nose.

Just a couple minor mods besides this maintenance this winter, and I'll be good to go.