Hi.. can anyone help, desperate need! I have replaced all of the gaskets on my 993 except the right hand gasket which is covered by the steering rack pump and I cant work out how to remove it! Does anyone know of a posting on a forum to help, I have been looking for the past hour or so.... I guess I could continue to fiddle around without being able to see what I am doing but that took a good couple of hours today but not getting there far!

 

I removed my upper right valve cover from the bottom while I was doing other jobs in the area.

 

This is really simple

Step 1: Remove muffler, this should take a couple of minutes, but if they have never been removed you will struggle with rusted nuts and bolts.

Step 2: Remove the flexible clutch vent tube, should take about one minute. Of course if nobody has ever removed it you will spend an hour removing the factory hose clamp that is facing the wrong way and is a flat head only, after swearing and cutting up your fingers you will get it off and quickly throw it in the trash and replace it with a sqeeze type clamp, or get rid of the vent tube completely.

Step 3: remove the metal part of the vent tube, just a couple of bolts from the bottom, of course there is a hose clamp on the top of that too, have fun with that, see above comments they will apply here.

Step 3A: Stop and have a beer because the really easy steps are next.

Step 4: Simply remove the three allen head bolts holding the engine tin in place. This should take 3 minutes, it will take at least 1 hour. Of course at least 1 will strip out and you will have to figure out how to get it out, Irwin makes a damaged fastener remover that works pretty good. Once you have those three bastards out the other little bolts are easy.

Now that you have the tin out of the way you can get to all of the valve cover screws and it will be no problem.

If you are really lucky you will have previously spilled some oil on that engine tin from the split fill tube and everything will be coated with a fresh cover of greasy dirty sludge.

So there you have it, what should take a few minutes will become an all day fight, and you will surely have to stop and go to a hardware store or order new allen head bolts, but when you are finished just think of all the money you saved doing it yourself

 

thanks, perfect advice, just finished, now i will have a beer!

 

Great description of the quick and easy replacement of uppers. Now, while I am headed to the ER, does anyone have the correct torqueing spec (7FtLbs???) and the proper sequence for the retorque? Also a resource for a tiny little accurate torque wrench that will fit in the remaining three fingered hand that still may function..

Once the bleeding and infection has abated and the stitches are depussed, I will need this data to continue to "save" money by DIY...

 

^LMAO! Been there bro. Hope its not too serious.

Sequence is to work from the middle and go outward. 7ft/lb