Need Advice...to remove Lower Valve Cover (Update)
01-07-2012, 01:55 PM
#16
Remove the muffler hanger. Then you have enough room to work from the other side. Use a high quality L hex wrench like snap-on that fit well. Clean the bolt hex hole very well with spray carb cleaner so the hex key is seated well. If there is slop or the hex key doesn't fit well, it will strip the bolt. That bolt is soft like cheese.
01-07-2012, 02:01 PM
#17
To remove the muffler hanger you need to remove the 6mm? Allen bolt on top. That hole in the hanger is there for the extension to reach the bolt. Then just loosen the 10mm hex bolt. The hanger will slide out. I had to do this last time I changed my valve cover gasket.
I also replaced the 'biach bolt with a regular hex bolt for ease of access.
I also replaced the 'biach bolt with a regular hex bolt for ease of access.
01-09-2012, 07:44 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So, valve cover is back on with new bolts. I found DIY on this job, and it says to finger tighten then turn another 1/4 turn for each bolt. After all bolts are tighten this way, I went back and the bolts still felt very loose. I'm afraid using my torque wrench to 84 in/lb will be too much. I didn't want to crush the new gasket. What method do you guys use?
01-09-2012, 07:49 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
So, valve cover is back on with new bolts. I found DIY on this job, and it says to finger tighten then turn another 1/4 turn for each bolt. After all bolts are tighten this way, I went back and the bolts still felt very loose. I'm afraid using my torque wrench to 84 in/lb will be too much. I didn't want to crush the new gasket. What method do you guys use?
p.s. I don't think overtightening would crush the gasket. I think you're already steel-on-steel.
p.p.s. You couldn't get a torque wrench on some of the bolts, so I'd rather do them ALL by hand in that case.
01-09-2012, 08:07 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Most guys just use the little L-shaped allen wrench to tighten. Just hand tighten. Don't go crazy and overtighten; remember you have to remove them down the road. And tighter isn't better for these. I have no idea what that translates to .... maybe 10 to 20 in-lbs?
p.s. I don't think overtightening would crush the gasket. I think you're already steel-on-steel.
p.p.s. You couldn't get a torque wrench on some of the bolts, so I'd rather do them ALL by hand in that case.
p.s. I don't think overtightening would crush the gasket. I think you're already steel-on-steel.
p.p.s. You couldn't get a torque wrench on some of the bolts, so I'd rather do them ALL by hand in that case.
That's exactly how I tightened them...with the L shaped allen key. I went a little further to 1/2 a turn instead of 1/4 turn. Hope it's enough and not cause a leak.
01-09-2012, 09:56 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
It isn't. I was able to torque my valve cover bolts, but then I also had my heat exchangers off at the time.
You won't. Its rubber.
I lightly oiled the surface of the rubber seal that lies against the engine and torqued my valve cover bolts from the center outwards toward the sides, to 84 lbf.in. ... I may have even done it in two stages. They're still bone dry after nearly 2 years. Andreas has OEM valve covers as I do and his are bone dry after 5 years.
You won't. Its rubber.
I lightly oiled the surface of the rubber seal that lies against the engine and torqued my valve cover bolts from the center outwards toward the sides, to 84 lbf.in. ... I may have even done it in two stages. They're still bone dry after nearly 2 years. Andreas has OEM valve covers as I do and his are bone dry after 5 years.
