Motive Products Power Bleeder - Modified for Dry Method Use
11-22-2011, 09:54 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Actually, it was Marc Shaw's idea that I came across on another Motive Products Power Bleeder thread.
Cripes Andreas...wipe those dirty fingerprints off your Power Bleeder.
How can it get dirty when your car is so clean. 
time. I just made up another set of ignition wires and need a brain break.
Cripes Andreas...wipe those dirty fingerprints off your Power Bleeder.
How can it get dirty when your car is so clean. time. I just made up another set of ignition wires and need a brain break.
11-22-2011, 11:45 PM
#17
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
11-23-2011, 12:34 AM
#18
Noodle Jr.
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
11-23-2011, 02:44 AM
#19
Pro
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What is the advantage to using it dry? I can see that it would be much cleaner and less chance of spilling brake fluid in or on the car. But as you note, the down side is you have to keep adding brake fluid to the reservoir and checking that you don't let the level get too low.
12-16-2011, 12:04 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Anyone looking to source the tubing for the Motive Products Power Bleeder can get it from US Plastic Corporation who carries Superthane Ester (polyurethane) hose made by New Age Industries.
US Plastic Corporation part number: 56412, 5/16" ID, 7/16" OD. Price per foot at present is $0.37.
I first used vinyl tubing sourced from the local Home Depot. That type of tubing is stiffer/harder and tended to leak at the spigot on the pump's reservoir (spigot is a tad small), even with a crimp clamp in place. The Superthane Ester tubing is softer and provided an air-tight seal.
I also used an Oetiker crimp clamp at all joints, not that it was absolutely necessary.
US Plastic Corporation part number: 56412, 5/16" ID, 7/16" OD. Price per foot at present is $0.37.
I first used vinyl tubing sourced from the local Home Depot. That type of tubing is stiffer/harder and tended to leak at the spigot on the pump's reservoir (spigot is a tad small), even with a crimp clamp in place. The Superthane Ester tubing is softer and provided an air-tight seal.
I also used an Oetiker crimp clamp at all joints, not that it was absolutely necessary.
The following users liked this post:
Lawrencejuliano (01-16-2024)
12-16-2011, 12:14 AM
#22
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
12-16-2011, 12:01 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Ok just to stir the pot.....
What is so "dirty" about the wet method? Here is my procedure, feel free to punch holes in it...
1) Empty the reservoir into the bleeder with a turkey baster. You need to do this either way, in my case I just use it flush out any dust or leftover water that may be in the tank.
2) Pump/Dump the dirty fluid from the tank into your catch can. (ok so this is an extra step)
3) Fill tank with new fluid (you should always use a new unopened can)
4) Crimp overflow tube (on 95's anyway)
5) Connect the cap
6) Pressurize the bleeder with either the pump or shop air.
7) Jack up the back of the car
8) Remove pass/rear wheel and begin bleeding
9) While this is going remove the driver/rear wheel
10) Complete pass side and start driver side
11) While driver side is going re-install pass wheel
12) Repeat this for the front
13) Disconnect the bleeder and pump the remaining fluid into your catch can.
14) Rinse the bleeder with water (yes water).
15) Have beer
Brake fluid is water soluble, so a good rinse will clean it all out and the water will evaporate. If any water doesn't evap, step 1 next time will take care of it.
Whole process takes under 20 minutes and is clean and tidy. The only issue Ive ever had is once the hose split and leaked.
Flame suit is on, let me have it....
What is so "dirty" about the wet method? Here is my procedure, feel free to punch holes in it...
1) Empty the reservoir into the bleeder with a turkey baster. You need to do this either way, in my case I just use it flush out any dust or leftover water that may be in the tank.
2) Pump/Dump the dirty fluid from the tank into your catch can. (ok so this is an extra step)
3) Fill tank with new fluid (you should always use a new unopened can)
4) Crimp overflow tube (on 95's anyway)
5) Connect the cap
6) Pressurize the bleeder with either the pump or shop air.
7) Jack up the back of the car
8) Remove pass/rear wheel and begin bleeding
9) While this is going remove the driver/rear wheel
10) Complete pass side and start driver side
11) While driver side is going re-install pass wheel
12) Repeat this for the front
13) Disconnect the bleeder and pump the remaining fluid into your catch can.
14) Rinse the bleeder with water (yes water).
15) Have beer
Brake fluid is water soluble, so a good rinse will clean it all out and the water will evaporate. If any water doesn't evap, step 1 next time will take care of it.
Whole process takes under 20 minutes and is clean and tidy. The only issue Ive ever had is once the hose split and leaked.
Flame suit is on, let me have it....
12-16-2011, 01:02 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Actually, its funny you mention that, I have been known to add a little denatured just for good measure....
01-27-2012, 09:11 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Big thanks to Alex for his efforts in posting all the details in this thread! I ordered the CPC parts as he indicated and used the bleeder for the first time last night. It worked REALLY well and since I had completely bled the system in order to paint the brake calipers, it was fanfreakintastic to not have to re-pump the bleeder so many times using the dry method.
01-27-2012, 09:36 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The last time I used it, I had to pump it up after every refilling of the hydraulic reservoir.
01-27-2012, 09:45 AM
#30
Bought the parts, but??
The couplers are open. How does this keep the thing pressurized? I bought the parts but do not understand what the improvement is.Please explain in a way a stupid person can understand. The couplers are not designed to hold air pressure. Thanks