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Throttle Cable Tips

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Old 11-11-2011, 03:56 PM
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MDamen
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Default Throttle Cable Tips

You may never have to mess with your throttle cable, but if you have to replace it, or you are dropping the engine, here are a few tips from my recent experience.
Your results may vary.

1. You can't humanly get to the throttle cable with the engine installed unless your hand, finger and arms are extremely small.
- To undo the cable, drop the engine a few inches so you can get a small screwdiver in there to pry up the retainer.

2. I pulled the cable out as the engine was being lowered. Once you get the cable end out of the retainer it pulls out fairly easily.

3. Going back in, make sure you put it in the right hole. That might be enough direction for most guys. There are two holes in the sheet metal. the one at about the center of the car is for manuals, the one on the driver's side is for automatics.

4. It is difficult to get the rubber "stopper" to engage the round metal holder. I finally lubed it up with some slippery orange cleaner then encouraged the rubber to come through the retainer with a pick while pulling up on the cable end.
- I am not sure at what point you can get the cable installed far enough to engage it. I had the engine almost all the way up so I was reaching over the engine trying to get it installed.

5. Once the cable is secured, click the cable end into the black plastic retainer first. then engage the assembly into the rectangular holder. The rectangular metal holder has a slot cut into it so you can slide the cable in, then push the black retainer down.

If I would have known there were these many lessons to learn from a simple throttle cable, I would have taken some pictures. Now it is not accessible.

Hope this helps some people. Feel free to add on if you have similar experiences.

Last edited by MDamen; 12-07-2011 at 12:18 PM.
Old 11-11-2011, 04:24 PM
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NP993
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Don't forget that you also have to adjust the cable once it's installed. The adjuster is a plastic nut at the rear end of the center tunnel, accessible underneath the car with the tranny and tunnel covers removed. The way I did it to ensure full throttle was jack up the car, put it on stands, fire it up, and while idling, tightened the cable until it affected the idle speed -- and then backed it off a couple of turns.
Old 10-27-2013, 03:12 PM
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bcameron59
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Originally Posted by NP993
The adjuster is a plastic nut at the rear end of the center tunnel, accessible underneath the car with the tranny and tunnel covers removed.
And whatever you do, don't overtighten this black plastic turnbuckle, it may be very tight to turn; once it reaches end of thread, can break without warning upon even the tiniest bit of incremental torque. Use an LED headlamp to see what you're doing, DON'T go by feel in the dark.

Now I have to try to dial in the adjustment using the thread on the accelerator cable attachment. If that doesn't work, new cable.
Old 10-28-2013, 03:33 PM
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d ward
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Originally Posted by bcameron59
And whatever you do, don't overtighten this black plastic turnbuckle, it may be very tight to turn; once it reaches end of thread, can break without warning upon even the tiniest bit of incremental torque. Use an LED headlamp to see what you're doing, DON'T go by feel in the dark.

Now I have to try to dial in the adjustment using the thread on the accelerator cable attachment. If that doesn't work, new cable.
Another good tip is to make sure you put the throttle cable back into the correct place and not into the cruise control cable slot

We replaced a broken throttle cable, put the new one back in just as the broken one came out, why can we not get WOT? or beyond two thirds throttle, even using both the adjustment points?

Turned out the last garage to work on the car had put the cable into the identical cruise control slot, which was one of the reasons the cable broke

Drove like a different car afterwards



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