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Continual Short Range Driving - Problem?

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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #16  
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I'll admit to being in an abusive relationship with my '95 since new and have fostered traumatic bonding...she keeps coming back for more.

My drives are short, like yours; lots of cold winter driving (some 30 below on occasion).
After parking outdoors all day, by the time I get home to the warm garage she is just starting to develop enough heat to feel a little at the vents.

So far nothing has grenaded; low oil consumption, no issues whatsoever with valves, lifters; change the oil once in a while...belts, plugs.

HVAC and immobilizer have been bitchy, nothing money won't fix.

gordo
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #17  
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I drive the same small amount to work daily. The car does not like it, but I do and the car does not have a vote. My oil consumption is higher than I'd like, which I attribute to this type of driving. Interestingly, when I go on long trips, which regretfully I rarely do, there is virtually no oil consumption...
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #18  
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I think it takes some time to bring three gallons of oil to operating temp.

After 30 mins. of driving, it seems my gearbox is just starting to warm up.

I don't take the 993 if I can't run it for at least 30 mins.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #19  
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http://porsche356registry.org/resour...rocedures.html

I don't know what kind of authority Bud Osbourne is but his article seems to make sense.
About 2-3 minutes at near idle and then drive gently until up to temp. The goal seems to be to get the oil to at least 100 deg Celsius to get all the absorbed moisture out.

Most of the SAE articles I tried to find spoke about total HC and NOx outputs, fuel consumption etc. All important but I think we are all concerned with engine wear first and foremost.

I did read one article that stated the rich mixture and the cool cylinder walls allows unburnt hydrocarbons to stick to the cylinder walls and act like sandpaer in the engine, so better to get it warmed up as fast as possible = no idling. Another paper on a 1.0L (water cooled) test engine did show it took a full 17 minutes to idle an engine to proper operating temps and even then trans temps never came up. Sounds about right.

I am still on the fence on this, I will do a little more digging and try to find something conclusive. The topic is of course covered all over the internet and the different theories are almost as bad as asking "whats the best engine oil?"
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