Brake bleed gone wrong
10-01-2011, 11:13 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Soaked it w/PB blaster and used a craftsman flare nut wrench and no dice...every attempt felt like it turned but was just rounding off. I gave up. Yeah if i forced the issue i may have been able to get it off but then what. I'm left w/a mangled nut that i have to pray i can tighten back up onto the new line. Too risky.
10-02-2011, 03:19 PM
#18
Racer
I would never use Vice Grips on any bolt/nut unless it was the only remaining option and even then only to remove the line to replace with a new one. Those flare nuts are not designed to be squeezed like that. Use the proper flare nut wrench or a 6 pt deep socket on bleed screws.
10-02-2011, 04:35 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I would never use Vice Grips on any bolt/nut unless it was the only remaining option and even then only to remove the line to replace with a new one. Those flare nuts are not designed to be squeezed like that. Use the proper flare nut wrench or a 6 pt deep socket on bleed screws.
PS- I gotta throw in here, that Speed Bleeders are another great option. I've not used my Motive in a long time....
10-03-2011, 10:56 AM
#20
Racer
Soaked it w/PB blaster and used a craftsman flare nut wrench and no dice...every attempt felt like it turned but was just rounding off. I gave up. Yeah if i forced the issue i may have been able to get it off but then what. I'm left w/a mangled nut that i have to pray i can tighten back up onto the new line. Too risky.
Not sure if I understand?
A new brake line comes with new flare nuts.
10-04-2011, 01:28 AM
#21
5th Gear
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For those not agreeing with my alternate method, can you offer the OP any other suggestions? I'm curious too. Flare wrenches --even quality wrenches-- strip nuts in this application consistently. Who has experienced this and been able to get around the stripping?
10-04-2011, 10:46 AM
#22
Race Director
Some flare nut wrenches are better than others. Mine are fairly old (30+ YO) Craftsman wrenches but I would not buy the newer Craftsman stuff for an application like this. The quality is not as good IMHO.
For Bleeder screws I use a deep 6 point (1/4" drive) socket to loosen the screw and have a small 6 point wrench (sometimes called Ignition Wrenches) pre-positioned on the tube I slide over the bleed nipple for opening and closing the bleed screw. I think Steve Weiner recommended the 6 point deep socket some time ago in another thread.
Last edited by Slow Guy; 10-04-2011 at 11:29 AM.
10-04-2011, 11:24 AM
#23
Racer
Sounds good.
To ensure that the bleeder nipples don't rust up, every time the wheels are off I crack the nipples open briefly. A few drops of fluid (and sometimes small air bubbles) come out.
There is an old myth floating around that air might enter when you do this is in line with Big Foot. Gravity works down, not up and since fluid in the system is heavier than air, it pushes air out.
Have done it for more than 30 years. Bleeder nipples on some cars are rediculously small and if they're left allone for too long, they rust solid.
To ensure that the bleeder nipples don't rust up, every time the wheels are off I crack the nipples open briefly. A few drops of fluid (and sometimes small air bubbles) come out.
There is an old myth floating around that air might enter when you do this is in line with Big Foot. Gravity works down, not up and since fluid in the system is heavier than air, it pushes air out.
Have done it for more than 30 years. Bleeder nipples on some cars are rediculously small and if they're left allone for too long, they rust solid.
