M Fig

Right on Lewis...you da man!

Please add me to the list...I'll take two. Whatever version is easiest to install.

thanks

Mark

MDamen

I checked the engine compartment to look for wire routing and circuit board location. There is plenty of room for the circuit in the electrical box on the left side. 12 inch leads for the plus and minus 12 volts will be fine. There are two O2 sensor connectors directly next to the box. 12 inch leads will probably work for them too. The other two O2 connectors are under the electrical cover on the right side. They will need about a 60 inch lead to allow routing along the rear of the engine compartment. My car is a 96. I don't know if the O2 connectors are in different places for different years. You might want to check.

Lorenfb

"They will need about a 60 inch lead to allow routing along the rear of the engine compartment."

Potential ignition noise problem! Shielded wires may be needed.

Also, a small box should be used to enclose and protect the circuit board.
And if a kit/circuit board is provided, a box should be provided too.
Mickey Mouse solutions not allowed!

MDamen

Yes, a box is needed for the board. It shouldn't be just sitting in the electrical box. It should be pretty easy to find some 2 conductor shielded cable.

tropheus

As a technical handicapped person I'm more than willing t pay a premium for a plug & play solution. Looking forward.

Jack

e3photo

Please put me down for 1 of the assembled boards also.

Thanks for doing this.

Emerald

MDamen

I worked a bit on routing my wires to the O2 sensor connectors. The wires need to be fairly small to fit into the connectors. I would suggest a 2 conductor 18 or 20 gage wire. Since it only takes a sensor signal, you could probably go down to 22 gage. I'll try to post some pictures if I can figure out how.

User 122821

I used 24 gauge shielded.

911Dave

Please put me down for 1 assembled! Thx Lewis!

kraftsman

I would love to have one as well.

Thanks a bunch,
steve

PNogC2S

I'd like to get one as well, please. A kit is fine.
Although my SAI is OK now, it would be nice to havejust in case I have to "troubleshoot" in the future.
Thanks!!!

MDamen

I installed my circuit today. I used the 1x2x3 project box and 2 conductor 24 gauge wire similar to Flying Low. This is far from plug and play. It is not difficult, but is tedious to connect the wires into the O2 connectors. I also drilled a couple holes in my electrical box to route the wires out. I could not find a readily obvious ground in the electrical box so I routed the ground wire to the gray wire on one of the O2 connectors.

I cleared the CEL and now I'm waiting for all the readiness checks to set to see if the CEL comes back.

CAHRERA

Hi Lewis,

I'd like to get an assembled kite also, please. My SAI is OK but it willl be nice to have.

Thanks,

william_b_noble

after reading all of this and looking at the schematic, is there any reason why a 4PDT relay wouldn't do the same thing? mil-spec crystal can relays are readily available surplus and other form factors can be had new - I would think that a relay solution would be far more immune to EMI/EMC and since it's a single part, would be easier for everyone. the kind of relays I'm thinking of are like the ones shown here http://www.surplussales.com/relays/crystalcan.html - if all you find is DP then just use two of them. full mil spec relays won't be bothered by the heat in the engine compartment either.

any thoughts?

MDamen

If its not mechanical, I can barely figure it out. Those relays are fairly small. You still need a base or board to wire them to. I assume that a EE guy saw the opportunity to use some transistors as a switch and they took up very little space.