I just had this done this past Spring. The first thing I would do is talk to the experts on this. GT gears, Steve Weiner, Brian Copans are all good, I'm sure there are more....
Once you decide on who is going to do the rebuild, use their knowledge to help you decide what to put in the box you are building. There is no right answer.
As far as price, depends on way to meny things; condition of box
; gear ratios
; type of gears (Porsche motorsport gears may be the same ratio as a street gear but are way more expensive and also stronger)
; who built the gears, Porsche OEM are more $ than aftermarket.

There are other things that also add up. Shipping to and from the builder, removing and installing the box, not a hard job if you have a lift but hard from the ground, and then all the while I'm in there stuff. For me it was the better part of $8K, that's with buying some parts on the used market. If you were to use all new you could be well ovr $10K. I looked into a new box,
g50/31, $13K plus a core of $3K. The core had to be the same type of box,
meaning you could not give a G50/20 for a G50/31. So new Porsche OEM
for a G50/31 is $16K plus shipping from Germany to Sunset then to you.
Oh yea and there was only 1 left in the whole world

I used Brian Copans, small shop and lots of experence. You deal with Brian regarding the box, he builds it and gives you advice, and you deal with his wife for the rest of the day to day stuff; shipping and billing. He is very busy at certain times of the year [he goes to all major races that P-cars race in, Daytona, Sebring etc], so you need to plan way ahead.

My car is used for street and track. I still drive to most events I attend. I had a suto G50/32 box built; motorsport gears 3-6, steel syncros and a Porsche Motorsport LSD. I love it. It really transforms the car. It now jumps in 3-5.
I use to hate how tall 3 and 4 were. 1 and 2 never really bugged me, again no right answer, each person has their own needs. For a track car, your gear choice also might depend on the tracks you go to. Fast track with lots of straights or short track with lots of corners, again no right answer.

This is a great mod for a 993. 993's are great cars and lots of fun and this mod in my opinion was worth it. I think after susp work it's the next mod for the car. For people who want more power [ supercharger or turbo mods], I think a re gear is a great option. It really is like adding 50 HP to the car, so peoplle say

The cheapest way to get one of these boxes will be when I sell my car in the near future........ I got the GT3 bug real bad

Cheers,
Geoff

 

while we are on the topic.

whats a straight forward non-steel synchro tranny refresh costing these days?

I think my 3rd gear synchro is worn a bit.

 

HHmmm, oh great - my kids don't really need to go to university... At least we can swap it out on my hoist...

 

Very helpful chart from Bill V...



And a very helpful post with the cutover S/N info regarding integrated 2nd on the mainshaft...

My car with it's 9/94 birthday missed the cutoff by just a bit.

 

Well I'll have to think about it the next time I am out on the road. I just didn't notice anything that abnormal. I hardly use the lower gear because I'm on the country back roads 99% of the time.

What was Porsche's reasoning for picking those ratios? I'm sure it wasn't a one-person decision.

But manufacturers do screw up at times. There are two transmissions available for my BMW GS Adventure; one with short 1st and 6th gears and another with tall 1st and 6th gears. What 1st gear has to do with 6th gear, I'll never know.

I need a short 1st for he Alps (what I have) and a tall 6th for the Autobahn. Makes sense, but then I don't have an engineering degree.

 

Noise. They screwed the Swiss market too. Same reason for the stupid engine cover - as documented in the factory service manuals

BTW - I upgraded to a g50/31. For anyone interested, you can find my impressions - search: "g50/31 experience."

Cheers,
Joe

 

What was Porsche's reasoning for picking those ratios? I'm sure it wasn't a one-person decision.

Our government.

It's our fault.

I'll edit to add: Check the racing forum for noise restrictions at Laguna Seca (a classic track). We will be shut down if some have their way and we don't fight.

 

Just got back from my cottage, after my long winded response I thought I would show you all what's in a 993 G50/20 box.
This is what I sent to Brian, He deleted 4 gearsets, added 4 gearsets and steel syncros and that's it .
The labour is under $1.5K for the rebuild, it's the parts that are crazy.
What part of Porsche and making it faster did you guys think is cheap

Cheers,
Geoff

 

Yes. As I've mentioned numerous times, what's great for Thunderhill and Sears is absolutely worse-than-stock for Laguna on the yellow car.

Just got a forward of some 907 in-car from a 3 hour race at Assen. Customer of my cousin. He's bitching about German noise restrictions. Laguna's issues are well known, and thoroughly manageable. Just pay for one of the unrestricted sound days.

 

+1

The problem, as I see it, is the long pause in the 1 - 2 upshift while the revs fall off, which I assume is caused in part by the heavy stock flywheel. Before I read your post, I had assumed that with a LWF, you would get shorter shift pauses, and the "gap effect" would be reduced.

Certainly, you can feel that heavy flywheel when you can get the car moving from rest at near idle rpms. It reminds me of a diesel.

Besides a shorter 2nd, the other thing that I would like is a shorter 6th gear, giving, say, an extra 300 rpm or so.

 

I do not know about the shift pauses with LWF. I feel that if the upshifts from 1st to 2nd are done at a low enough RPM, and because of the LWF does not dampen all gearbox noise like OE DMF, then gearbox noise occurs until the revs start increasing. I had the same issue with 915 gearboxes, but, those ratios were not as bad as the G50/20.

 

I have not driven a LWF car, so I haven't experienced the gear box noises.

My practise, with the engine warmed up, is to take the revs to 4,000 or 4,500, before shifting to second. Then the "gap effect" is minimized. But when the engine is cold (and it does get cold up here), I upshift at 3,000, and then get into 2nd at too low an rpm. While the engine has enough torque to pull it, it's too low an rpm for second gear.

Our other cars (an A4, a Subaru, and a Golf) can be short shifted when cold, with no issues, even at extremely low temperatures.

I just wish our 993s came with normal gear splits.

 

One of the reasons I bought my C4S was because the PO had already added the LWF, RS clutch, and revised gears. 3rd through 5th were revised and my 6th gear is my old 5th gear. I have my original gear set pickling in a vat of transmission fluid in case someone needs them one day or if I sell the car someone wants the originals. Not sure why anyone would ever go back the other direction but you never know.

This car was decidely quicker than others I tried out with stock gearing. There's nothing like a graph to show the change in RPM drop from going with regearing. Below is a link to an evaluation Bill did for me including great graphics.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...utobonrun.html

And my 96 C4S with the Guards Transmission gearset.

 

I have a LWF and Close ratio box I just installed about six months ago , I'm down the coast from you in Laguna Beach, if you'd like to drive her you're welcome to...Harry

 

Want a regear in the worst way!!! This would definitely be fun in the mountains of WV!