AC resistor install - difficult DIY?
08-25-2011, 09:38 PM
#16
Noodle Jr.
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Just noticed this thread. I super glued the washer to the bottom of the A/C resistor. Once you are in there swearing you will understand why.......
08-26-2011, 10:03 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
I mounted these slightly modified resistors on a stud just behind the inner fender liner .... OEM resistors can easily mount in the same location: simply disconnect the plug & forget about the dead resistor/removing bumper cover, headlights, dropping fans, heat exchangers, etc ..... mount the new and connect - job done.
BTW, the mod ones have been in 2 years now - functioning perfectly.
BTW, the mod ones have been in 2 years now - functioning perfectly.
08-26-2011, 04:08 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I did this recently. It took a few hours. But I typically work on new/unknown mechanical projects at moderate pace. I did all the searches here on RL, got good info. And then went to a highly recommended site (p-car.com) and pretty much folllowed the step by step process described there. http://p-car.com/diy/fan/ I will say that I removed 4 (IIRC) more screws and one plastic panel, which made the job much easier. I could see and easily reach the faulty resistor, bonus!
If the link doesn't work, go to the site and look for: 964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting
If the link doesn't work, go to the site and look for: 964/993 Oil Cooler Fan Operation & Troubleshooting
08-26-2011, 11:02 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
it's a bitch, but easy once you've done one.
don't have to remove the front bumper cover
DO have to lift the car, remove the wheel, wheel liner and i strongly recommend you remove the headlight and figure out which fastener helps hold the heat exchanger frame to the sheetmetal. (I think the fastener in question is a 10mm SHCS that points straight down into a bracket.)
Once removed you can take out a few more fasteners that hold the EX to the sheetmetal (sit down facing the brake rotor and look for likely fasteners / rubber friction bushings that hold the frame in place) , pull the heat EX out and down a few inches and you then have MUCH easier access to the resistor.
then you have to figure out how the resistor is attached to the frame.
One side, (oil cooler of AC heat EX) is a 6 or 8mm SHCS, the other side is a Phillips head screw................. I think.
i don't see how it would be possible to do this through the headlight opening.
have fun
Craig
don't have to remove the front bumper cover
DO have to lift the car, remove the wheel, wheel liner and i strongly recommend you remove the headlight and figure out which fastener helps hold the heat exchanger frame to the sheetmetal. (I think the fastener in question is a 10mm SHCS that points straight down into a bracket.)
Once removed you can take out a few more fasteners that hold the EX to the sheetmetal (sit down facing the brake rotor and look for likely fasteners / rubber friction bushings that hold the frame in place) , pull the heat EX out and down a few inches and you then have MUCH easier access to the resistor.
then you have to figure out how the resistor is attached to the frame.
One side, (oil cooler of AC heat EX) is a 6 or 8mm SHCS, the other side is a Phillips head screw................. I think.
i don't see how it would be possible to do this through the headlight opening.
have fun
Craig
Interesting. On my 98 C2S, the oil cooler resistor was attached with a hex head cap screw, while the resistor mounted on the A/C condenser was held in place with a socket head cap screw (4mm socket head). Could it be that Porsche used different hardware on different cars?
06-04-2012, 03:16 PM
#22
Go either with pcar.com or what is already discussed in some other postings here. There is no real news on this and some is preference. you can always take the bumper off and if you have sone this a couple of times, you might go this route. If not, you will most likely go with the procedure that requires a little bit of patience while the bumper is on.
06-04-2012, 04:33 PM
#23
POACB
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I just did the ac side last week. If you have a non-turbo bumper, remove the splitter, loosen the 2 nuts holding the condenser to the condenser frame, and the 3 nuts on the condenser frame to the body, pull everything down a few inches to give access to the resistor. It takes maybe fifteen minutes to remove these 5 or 6 nuts. You will have a much better access to the allen bolt this way and can then swap the resistor is less than 2 minutes.
I wasted at least 20 minutes trying to get an allen key in there with everything still bolted up, just couldn't do it.
I wasted at least 20 minutes trying to get an allen key in there with everything still bolted up, just couldn't do it.
06-04-2012, 07:57 PM
#24
I would give the DIY Difficulty a 2 out of 10 because of the limited access.
Here is how I recently found mine:
IMO any owner who is aware of this issue, and removes their bumper without checking, should have their Porsche taken away!
Here is how I recently found mine:
IMO any owner who is aware of this issue, and removes their bumper without checking, should have their Porsche taken away!
06-04-2012, 10:32 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
I just did the ac side last week. If you have a non-turbo bumper, remove the splitter, loosen the 2 nuts holding the condenser to the condenser frame, and the 3 nuts on the condenser frame to the body, pull everything down a few inches to give access to the resistor. It takes maybe fifteen minutes to remove these 5 or 6 nuts. You will have a much better access to the allen bolt this way and can then swap the resistor is less than 2 minutes.
I wasted at least 20 minutes trying to get an allen key in there with everything still bolted up, just couldn't do it.
I wasted at least 20 minutes trying to get an allen key in there with everything still bolted up, just couldn't do it.
