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Shift Knob Rattle

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Old 07-12-2011, 01:12 PM
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earossi
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Default Shift **** Rattle

Just replaced my shift **** and boot with OEM but in a different color. The **** is one with a "snap ring" in its base. At any rate, I installed it by sliding it down over the shifter shaft and then gave it a whack with the base of my hand to snap the **** into the notch on the shift rod. Worked fine; but, now the **** "rattles" when I make a shift. It is very loose on the shift rod and what I hear when I shift is the noise of the loose **** bumping against the shift rod. It does not slip off the shift rod, so I am certain that the snap ring engaged the notch on the shift rod.

Is there a trick to have installed this differently? Or, am I missing a piece from the shift ****?
Old 07-12-2011, 11:40 PM
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earossi
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Has no one had a problem with a rattling gear shift ****?
Old 07-12-2011, 11:47 PM
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The Brewmeister
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There should have been a rubber cap over the tip of the shift rod prior to installation of the new ****. Did the cap remain stuck in the old ****? Do you recall the cap being there?
Old 07-12-2011, 11:57 PM
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nile13
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From hazy memory - there's a little bit of a difference between C2 and C4 ****. If you search here you'll find the info.
Old 07-13-2011, 04:03 AM
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911PERVY
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C2 ***** are all rubber ad just push on, C4 are metal with a clip holding them on and a rubber bush inside. Is your car a 2 or 4? have you replaced like with like?
Old 07-13-2011, 09:57 AM
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justin993
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Mine rattled. I had to get under the boot and tighten a 5mm(IIRC) allen bolt that keeps the **** in place.
problem solved
Old 07-13-2011, 10:33 AM
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Texas993
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My RUF shifter rattled like crazy. I spent a lot of time trying to solve it with electrical tape, adjusting, etc to no avail. Recently I removed the **** and put felt with adhesive around the shifter rod and reinstalled the shifter. It was a tight fit, but it worked.

BTW, when I asked RUF how to fix the rattle, they suggested "put the old shifter back on." Nice. German humor is lost on me.
Old 07-13-2011, 12:44 PM
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Chuck W.
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Mine started rattling after I install the Wevos, Golden Rod and SSK. I have tried everything after doing an extensive search of the forum. I finally used inner tube and baseball bat tape. I has just about eliminated it, but at certain low speeds and RPMs, it is still there.
Old 07-13-2011, 12:54 PM
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Texas993
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Originally Posted by Chuck W.
Mine started rattling after I install the Wevos, Golden Rod and SSK. I have tried everything after doing an extensive search of the forum. I finally used inner tube and baseball bat tape. I has just about eliminated it, but at certain low speeds and RPMs, it is still there.
Good work Chuck. The space on my shifter was way to small to put anything as large as that baseball tape.
Old 07-13-2011, 01:33 PM
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earossi
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Default Shift **** Rubber Dampers

So, when all else fails, I go into the PET diagrams, and sure enough, the diagram of the shift linkage for a 993 shows (2) rubber bushings that are part of the shift **** assembly. I checked with Pelican and they are EACH $11. It appears that one insulates the **** from the shift rod at the top and the second bushing captures the **** at the bottom. Funny that I did not see any of this when I pulled the old **** off the car (which did not rattle). Perhaps the damper/bushings were embedded in the shift ****?

Anyone have an old **** that you can "look up into" to confirm before I spend about $30 to get the OEM parts to me? Pelican says that they are special order and will take 3 to 5 days to source.
Old 07-13-2011, 01:50 PM
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The Brewmeister
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Take a peek up into your old **** with a pen light or other precise lighting source. I wouldn't be suprised if the bushings are wedged up in there. The one on the tip stayed on the stick when I removed the ****. I had to remove it seperately to make way for the aluminum/leather one that was replacing it.
Old 07-13-2011, 02:54 PM
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earossi
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Originally Posted by The Brewmeister
Take a peek up into your old **** with a pen light or other precise lighting source. I wouldn't be suprised if the bushings are wedged up in there. The one on the tip stayed on the stick when I removed the ****. I had to remove it seperately to make way for the aluminum/leather one that was replacing it.

My problem is that I have already passed my old shift **** onto someone else; which is why I was asking what others had seen. So, you have, in fact, answered my question. I think I'll spring for the $30 and purchase both bushings. What the hell.....it's only money. (That's what my wife would say!!)

Thanks.
Old 07-13-2011, 03:12 PM
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nile13
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As far as I remember the old bushing stay inside the ****.
Old 07-13-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by The Brewmeister
Take a peek up into your old **** with a pen light or other precise lighting source. I wouldn't be suprised if the bushings are wedged up in there. The one on the tip stayed on the stick when I removed the ****. I had to remove it seperately to make way for the aluminum/leather one that was replacing it.
exactly,
and to the OP, upon re-install you need to ensure the rubber bushing item # 34 at the top of the metal shift lever item #1 is installed
and
1. then remove the metal clip item # 36 from the shift ****
2. position the larger accordion style rubber bushing item # 35 onto the shift lever
3. position the shift **** onto the shift lever so that the metal slip capture area aligns with the accordion style rubber bushing
4.. slip the metal clip in place to secure the **** to the lever.

have fun

Craig
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