Shift Knob Rattle
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Shift **** Rattle
Just replaced my shift **** and boot with OEM but in a different color. The **** is one with a "snap ring" in its base. At any rate, I installed it by sliding it down over the shifter shaft and then gave it a whack with the base of my hand to snap the **** into the notch on the shift rod. Worked fine; but, now the **** "rattles" when I make a shift. It is very loose on the shift rod and what I hear when I shift is the noise of the loose **** bumping against the shift rod. It does not slip off the shift rod, so I am certain that the snap ring engaged the notch on the shift rod.
Is there a trick to have installed this differently? Or, am I missing a piece from the shift ****?
Is there a trick to have installed this differently? Or, am I missing a piece from the shift ****?
#3
Rennlist Member
There should have been a rubber cap over the tip of the shift rod prior to installation of the new ****. Did the cap remain stuck in the old ****? Do you recall the cap being there?
#7
Race Car
My RUF shifter rattled like crazy. I spent a lot of time trying to solve it with electrical tape, adjusting, etc to no avail. Recently I removed the **** and put felt with adhesive around the shifter rod and reinstalled the shifter. It was a tight fit, but it worked.
BTW, when I asked RUF how to fix the rattle, they suggested "put the old shifter back on." Nice. German humor is lost on me.
BTW, when I asked RUF how to fix the rattle, they suggested "put the old shifter back on." Nice. German humor is lost on me.
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#8
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Mine started rattling after I install the Wevos, Golden Rod and SSK. I have tried everything after doing an extensive search of the forum. I finally used inner tube and baseball bat tape. I has just about eliminated it, but at certain low speeds and RPMs, it is still there.
#9
Race Car
Mine started rattling after I install the Wevos, Golden Rod and SSK. I have tried everything after doing an extensive search of the forum. I finally used inner tube and baseball bat tape. I has just about eliminated it, but at certain low speeds and RPMs, it is still there.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Shift **** Rubber Dampers
So, when all else fails, I go into the PET diagrams, and sure enough, the diagram of the shift linkage for a 993 shows (2) rubber bushings that are part of the shift **** assembly. I checked with Pelican and they are EACH $11. It appears that one insulates the **** from the shift rod at the top and the second bushing captures the **** at the bottom. Funny that I did not see any of this when I pulled the old **** off the car (which did not rattle). Perhaps the damper/bushings were embedded in the shift ****?
Anyone have an old **** that you can "look up into" to confirm before I spend about $30 to get the OEM parts to me? Pelican says that they are special order and will take 3 to 5 days to source.
Anyone have an old **** that you can "look up into" to confirm before I spend about $30 to get the OEM parts to me? Pelican says that they are special order and will take 3 to 5 days to source.
#11
Rennlist Member
Take a peek up into your old **** with a pen light or other precise lighting source. I wouldn't be suprised if the bushings are wedged up in there. The one on the tip stayed on the stick when I removed the ****. I had to remove it seperately to make way for the aluminum/leather one that was replacing it.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Take a peek up into your old **** with a pen light or other precise lighting source. I wouldn't be suprised if the bushings are wedged up in there. The one on the tip stayed on the stick when I removed the ****. I had to remove it seperately to make way for the aluminum/leather one that was replacing it.
My problem is that I have already passed my old shift **** onto someone else; which is why I was asking what others had seen. So, you have, in fact, answered my question. I think I'll spring for the $30 and purchase both bushings. What the hell.....it's only money. (That's what my wife would say!!)
Thanks.
#14
Rennlist Member
Take a peek up into your old **** with a pen light or other precise lighting source. I wouldn't be suprised if the bushings are wedged up in there. The one on the tip stayed on the stick when I removed the ****. I had to remove it seperately to make way for the aluminum/leather one that was replacing it.
and to the OP, upon re-install you need to ensure the rubber bushing item # 34 at the top of the metal shift lever item #1 is installed
and
1. then remove the metal clip item # 36 from the shift ****
2. position the larger accordion style rubber bushing item # 35 onto the shift lever
3. position the shift **** onto the shift lever so that the metal slip capture area aligns with the accordion style rubber bushing
4.. slip the metal clip in place to secure the **** to the lever.
have fun
Craig