How To Jack Up A 993
 

So this question is asked over and over so I will do my part to help some peeps since so many have helped me. I will keep it short but sweet. Things needed....
4 -2x6x24 Make sure they are no shorter....more on this later.
4 - ESCO flat top stands
1 - Low profile jack. I got mine at Costco for $99 and it works great.
1-5 Hockey pucks.

First thing to do is drive the front wheels up on 2 of the 2x6x24" boards and make sure you pull all the way up to the front of the board. Reason is when you jack the back up it pulls the car backward.
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1785/img0650ty.jpg
A small detail I did but not necessary was bevel the edge to make driving onto the board easier. Next throw a hockey puck on the jack pad and place under the engine as shown (people in Switzerland are screwed:evilgrin:)
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7203/img0651mv.jpg
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/189/img0652mv.jpg
Jack up high enough to get the stands under the rear and set the rear down.
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/396/img0653m.jpg
Next go up front and remove the two rubber drains sticking down. Now place a 2x6x24" board on the jackpad (without the puck this time) and place under the pan behind the front bumper as shown
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/590/img0654hm.jpg
Now place the front stands in place and lower the car. All done and if you want to go higher just repeat the process while raising the stands each time.
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/2265/img0655ao.jpg
A final detail is placing a hockey puck on the top of each stand which makes the contact smaller allowing more clearance for removing the undertrays. Hope this helps.:thumbup:

Thanks Cactus, that does look quicker than the other method i've used.

I've always done the front-first teeter totter method. Will give this a try next time. Thanks

I've never jacked the front via a plank. I've always used only the jacking points and the engine case. Exactly what part of the car is resting on the front plank, anywho? I don't think those are proper load-bearing points as are the prescribed jacking pads ...is it structurally kosher for the front end of the car to be "pushed up" where you rest the wood?

Edward

Very Kosher. This is nothing more than a first class lever...and with the positioning of the axis (jackstands) very close to the resistance (engine) it makes it much easier for the force (Cactus Costco Jack) to do its' job. I use a towel wrapped around a 30" 2x4 when applying the force to cushion against the pan.

Attachment 550353

Do you mean placing a stand under one side in front then do the other side? I could never get up the nerve to do it this way. I am comfortable doing it the way I described now because I have done it so much now. I just need a lift!!!

+993

How to jack up a 993
 

I, too, endorse the "Cactus" method. In order to keep the boards from sliding while driving up on them, I've adhered some of the black stair tread anti-slip strips to the undersides. Also, have taken some scrap carpet and tacked it to the front cross board to avoid any abrasion. I've found that it will fit in between the drain tubes without removing same.

I've found that a Sharks puck is much more secure than a Flyers. At least until the final step where Western Conf. pucks seem to fail.

I use an Autometric jacking block http://p-car.com/diy/jacktowpoint/ and when the front starts to creep as Cactus stated, it puts diagonal force on the puck. I have had a well-used puck split because of this. My solution was to start with both the front and the back wheels on 2x6 (or 2x8) and put a 2x8 under the jack to keep it from creeping. This keeps the front from creeping and the puck flat against the jacking block... or I guess I could have used a Flyers puck.

Thanks Cactus, great write up!

Yes exactly. I place my jack at the rear jacking point and lift the side high enough to place jackstand under the front. Then repeat on the other side. It's quite nerve racking, to be honest. But that's the only way I have seen done on RL. I def like your method better. Thanks Cactus.:thumbup:

A variation of the Cactus method: Rear is the same, but for the front, use a hockey puck on one of the front jacking points and jack there. The front is so light and with the rear on stands, the whole front comes up. Then place a jack stand on front jacking point on the opposite side of the car. Remove the jack, and jack on the aluminum front sway bar pivot location to get the second jack stand in place up front. You can see the cast aluminum housings next to the plastic cover.

I also put some magnets into a hockey puck to cause it to stay on the car on front jacking point, which makes this way easier.

I like this method just fine as long as the car isn't lowered too much or your jack doesn't have a low enough profile, or is not long enough to reach the engine jacking point without hitting the rear bumper. This is the problem I have, especially when the front is raised up on the 2x4 first. My jack is too short and not low enough.

My method is as follows:

1. Use the rear side jacking point to raise up one side of the car just enough to put stacked 2x8's under both the front and the rear tires. The stacked 2-bys give you about 3.5" of lift.
2. Lower back down so both front and rear tires are resting on the 2x8's.
3. Do the same on the other side.
4. Now you have enough room on both ends of the car to get your jack under there. Raise the rear under the engine and place the car on jack stands.
5. Raise the front using the method Cactus described and set on jack stands.
6. Lower it back down in reverse order.

Thanks Cactus!! perfect step by step pictures!

When I read the thread title and saw that the OP was Cactus, this is what I thought would be inside:

Mark - is that your new "track" car. :)

When Andreas passes out in Thomas we are going to do that to his car. Overhaulin.....Thomas, WV edition:cheers:

Cactuswagen looks good as hovercraft, a time-honored Porsche tradition ;)
http://www.finecars.cc/typo3temp/GB/407417320e.jpg

It's my new track whore.

There's a Tawny Kitaen joke somewhere in there.

Do let me know what day you do that so I can go into my bunker to avoid the nuclear blast.

Hey Mark,

I gotta admit, when I saw the thread line "jacked up" I was definitely thinking along the lines of that pic ...yeaow!!! :)

Edward

I'm sorry but a Flyers puck just won't cut it.:icon107:

I thought that was the reason this "trick' worked so well:)

P.S.: Cactus, maybe a caution for newbies that might still have their tray in place Oops!

+1 I find that I need to jack the front wheels first onto ramps (lower than the jack stands) in order for the jack to get under the rear bumper. The tilt causes the bumper to lower too much if I put the front on stands first.

He's right about the rearward creep as the rear comes up--ask me how I know (no crashing sound--but close)!!

You mean the rear wheels onto ramps first.

If you chock the front wheels before lifting the rear, the car won't creep but the jack will. Chocking is especially necessary if you're jacking on a surface that isn't perfectly level. Most garage floors are pitched slightly.

I do chock the front wheels but chocked them in the front--didn't think things would go backwards. :banghead:

No I did mean the front Dave--but that's a good idea about the rear first onto the ramps. Will try that next time. Thanks. :thumbup:

Thanks for the write-up and photos, Cactizzle.

Almost identical to my own technique, except that I usually start with a cold car on the ground, so I don't drive up my front 2x6s. Actually, I have a sandwich of two 2x6s to provide me with a little more angle/clearance when raising the rear. I also chock the front wheels now, as my new garage has a slight slope.

If I were to do it again, I would have used 2x8s. 2x6s are so narrow for our wide-ish tires.

I've used this method countless times for 5 years. Simple, safe, and gets the job done. As someone else mentioned, the front is very easy to lift with the weight of the engine acting on the 'lever'. I keep the lifting board as far forward on the pan as possible. No issues.


Andreas

ah yes, now I got it. I misunderstood your post at first.

My problem is my jack doesn't have a low enough profile to get it under either end of the car if the other end is already on stands. I really need to spend some dough for an AC jack!

Why oh why did Porsche see fit to eliminate the side jack tube that makes jacking a 65-89 911 so easy?

My problem EXACTLY and as low as my car is I don't think they make a jack low enough to get under there at that point, ergo the teeter-totter approach.

Great write up and pictures, thanks for taking the time to do this.

Maybe because the jack plugs are unsightly and are easily lost.

You think the factories want us working on our own, or will make it the least bit easier to avoid the "expertise" of their dealer network?

Use taller boards for the front tires to rest on. Jack from rear jack point, slide boards under then do the Cactus method.

I have this jack and have NO issues getting it under the car ever. Love it.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5429_200345429

I have the same Jack from Northern Tool. Best one I've ever used for the money, dream about the AC jack all the time!!!!!

Please Post to DIY and "How To" Archive
 

This is an excellent post. Very helpful and easy to follow. It would be great if this was posted in the DIY and "How To" Archive for easy future reference. Thanks!

Jim

Not sure how to get it put in the DIY section but I figured when someone searches it will pop up.

I used this method to jack my car up yesterday and it worked perfectly. I chocked the front wheels at the backside to avoid the "backward creep." Thanks again for an excellent write up.

Nick

Glad it helped!

Cactus...do you remove the drains at the front before putting the board there? I couldn't figure out how to remove them so I just put the board a few inches back.

Yes I pulled them out. Easy in and out.

This method works surprisingly well. I have tried other methods and this is by far the best. Just used it today with an oil change as it's getting close to storage time. For me, it's one step easier w/o having to drive up on 2x6's since I am sadly still SUV height. The pics of the 2x6 under the is helpful. It's so hard to believe how light the front becomes.

It works perfectly with this jack. Followed this method the first time and it is much better, safer and faster. Oil change was a piece of cake. My car is RS right hide plus 10mm and a 2x10 under the front tires worked perfectly. The northern tool Jack had about 3mm clearance to the rear bumper cover which is just good enough. thanks again for sharing this method.

Which jack stands among those offered by Northern Tool are the ones to get?

The only jackstands that I like and feel "bullet proof" with are the AC / ESCO models. The best money I ever spend in my life because it might safe it.

No affiliation:

http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...t5ju0p7sphnq02

Agreed

^^ +993

If you have a lift it's far easier to lift a 993 than a 911
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1321314281.jpg
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1321314366.jpg

It's hard to see when in use but these are the buffers needed, the 4 silver ones lock into the 993 chassis and make for fool proof lifting points, the 911 chassis needs pinch weld or rubber buffers which have to be very carefully placed to avoid sensitive areas
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1321314394.jpg


https://forums.pelicanparts.com/uplo...1321314456.jpg

...But they don't sell Esco stands at Northern Tool.

Seriously, I was standing in the store, literally seconds away from pulling the trigger on this stuff (see pics), when I was alerted that this thread had been updated. Have any of you bought and used this gear? I am always willing to consider cheaper / more expedient alternatives. Do tell. Thanks for your input.

Ed I have that exact Arcan jack...works great. I wouldn't use anything other than ESCO stands.

Ed, mine looks very similar in all aspects except the base of the stands. They are round. Got them from Griots Garage. So far they work great.

So the tops of these Big Reds or whatever they're called are flat enough? They seemed well built, free of those sloppy welds that seem to dominate the Chinese stuff....

The two raised lips are about 3mm higher than the flat middle part. Regardless, I use a hockey puck there to dampen the contact point.

I have both Esco and Big Red stands. The ESCO cover at least 3x times the contact surface at the ground compared to the Big Red stands. Guess what I am using all the time ...

Make me a reasobale offer for the Big Reds (I have two). You can have them. Local pickup would be the easiest but I can ship at your expense

Sounds like the Esco stands and the Arco jack are the winners here. Thanks for the input, everyone! Off to buy now.

Arcan jack is in the garage, and Esco stands en route. I feel so...so damned...equippped now.

+1 on the Esco's.

You will not regret the Esco's, I use all four of them on everything I've got. Best damn jackstands $$$ can buy.

Attachment 584254 :nono:

Hi Bill, what make of lift is that please? That looks like the very thing..
Cheers

Yet Another Floor Jack Adapter
 

the discontinued product made in japan.

________________________________________________________________________
"...rarely exceeding forty miles an hour. This made it one of the rarer
Porsche 911s in the world." -- H. MURAKAMI

Figured I would post up my version of the OP'er's ramp idea. Ramps are made out of 2 x 8 lumber cut 24" long with an angled 45 degree edge and non skid strips applied to the bottom. Furring strip angle cut at front edge to prevent running off. Front jacking piece is 2 x 8 piece ripped down to 6" and cut to 24" length. Front edge is 18" (to match width of Front Protection Bar) with 45 degree cuts back, as you can see I routed a groove ~ one inch wide by 3/4" deep to accommodate the FPB. A one inch bolt was threaded into a drilled hole about an inch in with about an inch and a half protruding out of the bottom, this fits perfectly into the hole of my floor jack. I then bored out about 2 1/2" circle nearly 1/2" deep to allow the FPB center mounting bolt to recess itself into. To finish it off I contact cemented a scrap piece of carpeting letting it dry overnight then cutting the excess off, a quick pass over the carpeting edges with a propane torch cleaned up the edges.

Damn I want a lift...............

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...r/993Ramps.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...FrontJackA.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...FrontJackB.jpg

Having almost had my neck snapped lifting a car and having the jack fall over I use a two jack method to lift my 993.
two in the front and walk back and forth until the front is up high enough. I use two jackstands with rubber pads under the front suspension mounting points and then move both jacks to the rear. I basically walk around the car and pump once each until the car is high enough. Then two more jackstands under the rear. Its not the fastest way for sure but I don't like teeter-porsches.
I really need a lift!

I like the carpet on the board. I usually don't even put anything on top of the board but I may steal your idea.

FWIW, The Arcan 3.5 ton floor jack is sold at Costco for $60 less. It's currently around $100.

used this method again today.
as Peter says, teeter-totter is a bit disconcerting, but I've used this method 5 or 6 times now with success.

I like it!

I like it.

Do you guys leave the car in neutral or in gear when jacking it up? Parking brake engaged or not?

Both in gear and with the handbrake on. I also use wheel chocks.

Your car is Perfect, LOVE it

That's what I do as well.

Here's an option. Excuse the blatant self promotion, but we discount to RL members.

Love my jack points, great product :)

Nice product, but I don't think your pads will fit my jack. Your pads look much bigger than my jack platform.

Giving a bump to an old useful thread...

I'm sure a lot of us are in the same position right not - it's getting warm enough to work on the car in an unheated garage, but the roads are still way too much of a mess with pot holes and salt to drive.

Yup- my car is lowered and I was wonder how best to do this

looks like I need a set of those

Just bought low profile aluminum jack...can't believe how light it is. I hope it lasts.

P.S. Jacking my car with regular jack the first time around was comical...took me good 30-40 min. Lift rear...jack doesn't fit in the front. Lift front first, and then jack doesn't fit in the rear.... I had to roll the car onto 4 small ramps to have it off the ground so jack can easily fit. Hopefully the low profile jack will make things easy.

I tried to use this method yesterday, and think something went wrong. When I started lifting the rear, I heard a clink, and noticed my exhaust tips were now firmly touching the bumper cutouts for the tips.

Did my motor mounts just give up on me? Or something else?

Did they "unclick" and return to the normal position once you released the jack back down? The only thing holding the engine to the car are those mounts, so all the force would be there. The Transmission mount has some flex to it. It's possible that maybe they gave out with the upward force. Or, if they're original to the car, they might just have some play to them.

How much upward deflection of the tips are you seeing? Did the clink happen as soon as you started to lift or after the tips made contact then bent down...clink!? May be time for new motor mounts.

Yes, when I saw what was happening, I immediately lowered it back down and the tips returned to normal position. Except now the driver's side tip is now loose. I think the "clink" I heard was that tip breaking free at the friction fitting where it connects to the exhaust system.

The tips currently sit maybe 1.5cm below the bumper cutout, so the deflection definitely travelled some distance.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5696/...107e4780_b.jpg

Yes, I think the "clink" sound came when the driver's side tip was bent downwards when it hit the bumper. It is now loose (still attached, just wiggles around now). The passenger side returned to its normal position, and is still firmly connected.

Ok, that's good news. If you had broken motor mounts they would sag down too ~ you'd know right away.

I would loosen the other exhaust tip clamp bolt so that it doesn't hit the bumper either. I scratched my ceramic coating on my wide ovals with my C4S bumper the same way last year during the engine drop. Suuucks! Lesson learned...

Before I got my lift, I used this lifting procedure and it worked great! Sketchiest part of it was adjusting the jack stands to be higher and higher on either end..ugh..I don't miss that at all!

Ok - thanks Jakob. Good advice. :thumbup: Sounds like my mounts are probably saggy - but not broken. I'll have to think about replacing those soon.

Gerard- ok good that was my thought. I'd lower the other tip a tad and try lifting again. This time make note of actual deflection of the tips. If you see anything more than 1-1.5" movement, I'd replace the mounts soon. Replaced mine with RS mounts and love it!

Ugh - I have so many reasons why I'd love to drop my engine over the winter, but I think I'd have to take a month off of work (and my family) to accomplish anything! :p

Thanks for the speedy responses guys. Much appreciated! :bowdown:

I just noticed the pix are down. Not sure why but I will try to get that fixed.

lift it like THIS :D:D

Attachment 1223696

I follow the procedure on p-car.com
Jack up each front position from the left and right rear positions. Jack up the rear from the engine case. I use a long lo profile floor jack from Harbor Freight. Makes the process a lot easier. I too use a hocky puck in the jack cup and modified jack stands so the tops are flat and have a centering stud for the jack point holes.

To bump an old thread with my recent experience...


The pictures in the original post are no longer visible. But I was able to get the gist of Cactus' procedures from the description. I lifted the rear of the car by jacking on the engine block, and put my Esco jackstands on the rear, at the lowest setting. However, I didn't feel comfortable jacking up the front by the frunk pan, so I settled on the front subframe attachment to the body. It is just a bit in front of the front jack-points, but more in-board.


I had previously purchased a cross-car jack bar from Harbor Freight, but had never used it. I put that on my HF low-profile jack, and the combination worked very well. The jack bar was just short enough to lift both sides of the front subframe attachment. With the rear already on jack stands, there was plenty of room to maneuver the jack and the jack-bar under the desired location.


Just a few pics for future reference...


Attachment 1215331


Attachment 1215332


Attachment 1215333

I couldn't edit this thread and I pm' d a moderator with no response. I gave up and started a new thread. How To Jack Up a 993...Redux.

Cactus method has proven to be super easy and quick for me!

Thanks for posting. I wont ever buy another HF item that my life depends upon (see failed jack I posted yesterday), but that looks like a solid fit. I'd like to get the safest jack stand available, and torn between the Esco stands and jack-point jack stands. I'd like to find something that will lock into the 993 jack holes to prevent the car from slipping off. Bill V. Shows four silver ones on page 4, and I would like to know if these are suitable for the Esco. I found two other intriguing alternatives pictured below - but while perhaps helpful, it's not clear to me if these can be relied upon to prevent slipping. Any input here would be appreciated. Thanks in advance,

Jim


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d768eaa536.png


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5dfb89f04b.png

Jim,
I have two full sets of AC flat-top stands, the typical 6,000 lb version as well as the 11,000 lb version. As you know I've spent a silly amount of time under my 993 over the last 10+ years and have always felt utterly comfortable with the construction, stability, and load ratings of the stands. The soft rubber pads provide plenty of friction between the stands and the jacking point of the car.

The ESCO stands are a copy (licensed?) of the original Made-in-Denmark AC stands. Apart from a different finish (AC stands are galvanized), the two versions appear very similar.


Attachment 1215313

Attachment 1215314

Attachment 1215315

Attachment 1215316




Andreas

Did a complete suspension swap with Escos over the winter. Car ended up being on stands for over two months, never a twitch even when using heavy torque on suspension components, I'd endorse them.

I have the ESCO jack stands and they are incredibly stable.

+1 to everything Andreas said regarding the stands.

My only comment is to order 4 at once. I had 2 from many years ago and just bought 2 more. Although they are similar quality and construction, the hole spacing for height adjustment was slightly different.

I do not use HF jack stands, but view the safety aspect differently with regard to jack. As I jack up my cars, I am never under the car, and as I jack up high enough, I slide jack stands under the car as a backup in case the jack fails. I raise the car in painfully slow increments, always increasing the height of the jack stands so that the car never has the chance to fall more than a couple of inches should the jack fail.

With that mindset, I feel Fine with HF jacks.
But I did a lot of research and ended up with the Esco stands, as I feel they are very solid. The flat top is perfect for the 993 and bmws, and the large leg pads distribute the load well.

I never liked jacking up the rear via the engine case. Only way I can get the car high enough to get the Esco stands under the jack points. Is there a better way ?

While perhaps not as versatile, I'm considering the jack point jack stands. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

Glad that you posted this, as I may have to to eat my words go with HF again. My jack points on the lowered 993 are a mere 4" off the ground. Even the AC Floor Jack at 3 1/8" would be too high, with insufficient space for a hockey puck (1") or a low profile jack point plate (still waiting for the precise profile measurement here). So I can either pay $1,050 for the Brunnhoelzl (includes $150 discount when you buy a pair of jackpoint jack stands - http://shop.jackpointjackstands.com/...PJ-BRI-003.htm), or buy another HF low profile jack. The Brunnhoelzl is just 2.2" high, and the HF 2 ton low profile is just 2 5/8" (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html). So I can buy a half dozen HF floor jacks and still be ahead of the game...just so long as you never get under the car until the jack is in place. :thumbup:

I must admit that in the past I have changed wheels using just the floor jack, no jack stand. That's never going to happen again, but hopefully the jack point stands will make easy work of it.

I borrowed a set of Esco stands for my engine trans drop and loved them.

I never get under car without jack stands.

For low cars you can always drive car up on blocks. I usee a Costco flor jack that has wored very well .

I jack the car up from the rear jack point high enough to place an Esco jack at the front jack point and one at point where the subframe bolts to the body. Then I do the same from the other side. If I want the car to be at a height that's greater than the lowest setting on the jacks I start with the first two at the lowest setting and raise the opposite side to the next highest setting. I go back and forth like that until I get both sides to the height I want. I do the same thing on the way down. It is kind of a painful method but has worked well for me.

GC

Here's a solution to raise the vehicle sufficiently to get additional jack clearance. Four of these were fabricated with finished 1"x10" boards (3/4"x9-1/4") x 24" long. They effectively give you an additional 1-1/2" clearance. With 3M anti-skid material on the bottom, they stay in place as you drive onto them and, when stored, the four ramps nestle into a very small package.

Fox, I have no safety concerns with changing wheels without a jackstand. But I never get under the car when on Jack only. Even something marginal like changing mufflers where you are 'mostly' out, I put it on stands in the back. I guess to be safe, there can be no marginal.

Yup - Great suggestion from a true trackrat! Funny because Jackpoint Jack Stand is basically telling me the same thing, and just drive the front tire onto a crude 2X6 to get a little extra height. I like your fabrication a lot more, and so will my rims. :thumbup: The theory is that once one of the corners are up, there should be enough clearance for the rest.

Nobody uses this method? (-:
Attachment 1053467

Hi Guys, I'm a newbie and saw Cactus' post about jacking up the rear by the engine. I thought I remembered reading about this in my owner's manual and sure enough, there is a fairly direct warning against it. Of course, I'd prefer to jack up the rear end by the engine because it's easier and more secure. Is the manual wrong on this?
Thanks,
Vince

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0b8388e822.jpg

I am not sure if the manual is wrong but I have done it plenty of times for my 993s and knows from my buddies that it is common practice and I have never heart about an issue.

Based on the experiences of a bunch of guys on the internet, I would (and have) jacked my car up using the engine as a lift point. If something were to go wrong, would I feel that it was Porsche's problem and not mine? Of course not.

I never feel comfortable jacking it up from the engine. I'm probably going to get one of those attachments that used to be a combo jack point and tow ring.

I have only ever jacked my car from the engine....probably 100+ times in 11 years and my engine has not fallen out yet. Think yer good!

I also notice the pix are down yet again. I give up on posting pictures on forums.....

The anti-skid material is a great idea. I don't know why I didn't think of this before! :cheers:

Hey Cactus,
Your excellent pictures are still on your redux thread.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...993-redux.html

ANYBODY WHO WANTS TO POST ABOUT JACKING UP A 993 SHOULD POST THERE!!

Maybe the admins can lock/merge/redirect this thread?????

The rubber bladder internal to the hydraulic motor mounts will either tear or separate and then leak. Its not really a question of if but when.

I've seen mechanics jacking up 911s using the engine several times in different historic rallies I have attended. I've seen also a few pictures on the web showing this kind of thing; have a look for example here:
https://petrolicious.com/articles/th...ion-of-porsche

IMO, the peak dynamic forces generated under typical usage and definitely under track usage exceed the static forces on mounts, etc under a jacking situation. In short, I am not too worried about using the cactus method. Most important to me is being sure to use a hockey puck between the jack pad and the engine case to avoid a peak contact stress.