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Which Optima Yellow Top?

 
Old 06-07-2011, 10:47 AM
  #16  
97_993C2
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Originally Posted by abiazis View Post
From what I gather, if the car has lots of electronic accessories and sits a fair amount of time - go with Yellow..

If DD, go with Red top?

Thanks for any info or opinions on this......
That's interesting because from my readings I came to the opposite conclusion. I thought the yellow top was more susceptible to premature failure if not maintained close to full charge. However, I seem to be bucking the trend at least by the posts on this thread. I do agree about the yellow top for heavy loads.

Last edited by 97_993C2; 06-07-2011 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:59 AM
  #17  
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Default From Optima Customer Service

Alternately, you can check the internet enthusiast forums for your vehicle to see how others have done custom applications with Optima batteries.

Red Top: Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles that are daily driven.
• Automotive & RV under-hood starting
• Heavy equipment where starting is primary function
• Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics

Yellow Top: Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a mini-van with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running. If the vehicle is not daily driven and is in storage for periods of time a Yellow Top would be suggested for this type of application.

• Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
• Dedicated drag racing vehicles
• Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
• Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
• Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
• Electric vehicles


Redtop seems good enough by this info....
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:18 AM
  #18  
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Installed a yellow top a year ago and been very happy with it. From 110 degrees in California/Arizona to 5 degrees in the snow and cold of the Pacific Northwest ... she fires strong everytime.

Optima Batteries 8040-218 D35 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery is the part number . $186.00 Amazon shipped no/core. Amazon is an authorized Optima dealer now and honors warranty.

Weight: 36.4 lb
C20 Capacity: 48 Ah
Post Type: SAE Post
CCA: 620 Amp
Width: 6.75 in
Length: 9.38 in
Height: 7.69 in

Battery posts are in the right configuration and factory cables are long enough to reach. A custom spacer is needed to install. I used a 13mm wrench as a spacer and it works great.

RED TOPS are garbage, in my opinion. Had nothing but problems with them. Yellow tops will take a beating and multiple discharges without even breaking a sweat. My last yellow lasted 7 years on my locked up Jeep Wrangler trail rig that I used a winch on. Yellow is almost overkill for a 996 but mine seems to sip electricity sooooo. Yeah , got my vote.

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Old 02-17-2017, 11:23 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rw229 View Post
Well... My current Interstate branded Optima Yellow Top battery is from 2001 and is just now becoming unreliable. I think 10 years is a pretty darn good life for a battery. The unknown is the current quality of the the Optimas. Mine was made in Colorado and the new ones are manufactured in Mexico.

So with a little more research, I've determined that both the D34 and D35 will work, but still not sure which to choose.

D34
750 CCA
42.9 lbs

D35
620 CCA
36.4 lbs

I'll probably just go with the D34 as it the same as the current is a D34/78 unless someone has a good reason not to. I do track the car, but only DE and the 6.5 lbs probably doesn't make a difference.
All weight makes a difference and less is better. Rule of thumb is for every 7 lbs. you shed, is like gaining 1 hp.

Less unsprung weight and/or rotating mass make the biggest positive differences in how your car and suspension work.
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:18 AM
  #20  
Mark in Baltimore
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For drivers at our levels, 6.5 lbs won't have any practical difference at all. Hell, I had to add 60 lbs. of ballast to my old race car to make weight, and it didn't affect my lap times one bit.
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Old 02-18-2017, 11:10 AM
  #21  
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Lol. People here bicker about 5hp when 10hp shows it doesn't make any difference..
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