eltren

Right. Newcomer. Greetings.

All this is way over my head for now.

I've got a 99 986 with a soaked immobilizer.

Help me out please: What are my takeaways here?

Is there a viable fix offered in all of this, for me, somewhere?

Shahrams

subd

1stgear

I just purchased a 1995 993. The PO had to replace the immobilizer to the tune of nearly $2k. Here's my question - if you have a car with a faulty immobilizer, will this work around (chip and jumper) work? Or, do you have to have a "good" immobilizer for it to work? THANKS!

wolfturbo

How can you tell if a early '95 has immobilizer?

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hey Rob,

Two ways to tell:

1) You must push the remote button to crank and start the engine.

Or

2) Look at the cover of the ECU under the driver's seat and the Immobilizer-equipped version will have 0.261.203.675 on the sticker.

Hope this helps,

Leon993

There are two simple criteria to happily live with your immobilizer:

1) lock your car when not in use.

2) change remote battery once a year. A $3.00 expense.

Thats it.

Bill Verburg

probably, but it would depend on the specific fault and you still need a functioning remote to disable the alarm.

Toto111

Please excuse my ignorance, but are you infering that a 94 or early 95 may not have an imobilizer fitted as standard?

bushle

I have a 97 Cab which is OBD II. I would love to get rid of the part that requires me to click the key door locker every time I want to start the car. I frequently have to do it 3 times before the starter will turn over (lock, unlock, insert key, turn key, nothing-repeat, repeat and it finally starts. I think I read somewhere that it shouldn't reset for something like 3 minutes, but on my car if I shut off the ignition and try to restart in say, 10 seconds, it requires going through the whole rigamarole to get it started again. I live in constant fear of killing the car in traffic because of that. It's not so bad in a parking lot, but it is still annoying.

So, if this relay replace and chip would somehow get me around this, it would make operating this vehicle so much better. Please, someone out there that is expert on this, can this problem be overcome without reprogramming the DME? I would be eternally grateful to anyone who can help.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi,

If you wish to start the car without touching the remote, you will need the software changes and the relay mod on these OBD-2 cars.

Garth S

To the second part of your concern ( stalling in traffic, or requiring 10 sec to enable restart), I'm either missing a point, or you perhaps misunderstand the restart sequence.

Use the remote push button to unlock the car( deactivation signaled by the flashing red diode on the window sill), or hop in the previously unlocked car, and push button to cause red diode to flash .... I do this with key inserted and turned to the run position - all dash lights on: the car never fails to start!!

If a running car should stall out for any reason, there is absolutely no need to readdress the immobilizer system - it is already defeated, and remains so until the key is removed from the ignition lock: as with all German cars, simply turn the key fully counterclockwise to kill the dash icons, then twist clockwise to start ...... works every time - forever.

My key is left in the ignition lock for weeks at a time when in my garage - immobilizer remains defeated, so car starts on nothing more than a twist of the key .... like an old Chevy ...

JimGinKC

My 95 is not equipped with the imobilizer

CarcentricB

I know this is not a recent thread, but I have a question about removing the immobilizer so I will post it here instead of starting a new thread:

If the 2 steps described by Bill are taken, ie install a non-immobilizer chip and jump the starter relay, what happens with the immobilizer warning light in the dashboard?

According to Loren this will stay on:

Is this always the case, ie with every non-immobilizer chip out there?

In general: which ECU controls the immobilizer warning light? If done by the DME I guess it can be turned off by a performance chip. If not, how can it be turned off?

CarcentricB

I did some further research (in the workshop manual) and apparently the Immobilizer warning light is directly controlled by the Immobilizer (connection to pin 5 of the Immobilizer).

So all it takes to have no warning light when the Immobilizer function is removed is to disconnect the wire from pin 5? Can someone confirm?

By the way, after ignitiation all the lights light up for a few seconds. How is this done? Is this centrally controlled and would that still work after cutting of an individual warning light like this one?

Dryfly57

make CarcentricB pay for a membership before he gets an answer.....