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Old 05-28-2011, 11:48 AM
  #16  
Bill Verburg
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the only thing that changes is the immobilizer lockout on the starter circuit, remote lock/unlock and alarm all stay the same. Alarm is only on when the doors are locked.

yes you need a chip that is not waiting for an immobilizer ok signal, I'm using a Steve Wong custom chip, the custom part is only because of the 3.8RS engine, non immobilizer is a standard option.

Instructions
1) replace chip in ECU under the drivers seat
2) replace relay R61 w/ the 964 part as pictured in the thread
3) enjoy new freedom from nannies
Old 05-28-2011, 11:49 AM
  #17  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by bart1
I have a late 95 with immobile and this is one of the very few things I don't like about the car. I asked my mechanic and Steve Weiner and they said it was immensely difficult to eliminate. Were they wrong???

....
yes
Old 05-28-2011, 11:52 AM
  #18  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by Crimson Nape Racing
I don't understandthe hatred of the immobilizer. If you unlock the car with the remote, it starts just like any other car. What am I missing?
some of us don't lock our car all the time, mine is almost never locked and there is always the potential that the battery in the remote will go belly up at just the wrong time.

If you need to lock the car all the time then this probably isn't for you
Old 05-28-2011, 12:02 PM
  #19  
P-daddy
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^ agreed
Old 05-28-2011, 01:30 PM
  #20  
bart1
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My immobilizer has screwed me twice. Once I was at the dealer and after a few failed attempts at reprogramming the remote, it would drive around with the alarm BLARING and the lights flashing. Fixed itself. Same story a separate time.
Old 05-28-2011, 01:39 PM
  #21  
race911
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
there is always the potential that the battery in the remote will go belly up at just the wrong time.
Like when you practically kill the fob on a hard fall snowboarding, get to the car a couple of hours later in a full-on storm with a foot of snow on the car, and have to spend nearly a half hour getting the car unlocked.................................................

(But I understand I'm in the minority of nearly one who uses the car in anything but 70F, 20 percent humidity sunny days.)
Old 05-28-2011, 02:27 PM
  #22  
murfysflaw
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Awesome! I didn't have trouble with the one in my 95 except for one time, but that time about gave me a heart attack. It was about 20 minutes after buying the car... I stopped to fill up for gas to get on the road for the 600+ mile drive. Turned the key to the start position... nothing. I thought... oh my god... I just bought a big old piece of crap. Called the seller's cell phone thinking he wouldn't answer or just say "sorry"... but he told me to push the unlock button and she fired right up.

Scared the bejeezus out of me and I was always nervous about it having issues later.
Old 05-28-2011, 02:44 PM
  #23  
flatsics
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Is this just a jumper for pins 30 and 87? Does it do the same thing as a jumper wire?

Nice find.
Old 05-28-2011, 03:31 PM
  #24  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by flatsics
Is this just a jumper for pins 30 and 87? Does it do the same thing as a jumper wire?

Nice find.
pin 3(30) to pin 5(87)

AFAIK, yes, it's just a jumper. A well known CT. shop makes their own, and reinforced my idea of how to go about doing this, But I found this in the wiring manuals and though it to be a good way to go.

For the life of me I don't understand why this hasn't been common knowledge.
Old 05-28-2011, 04:38 PM
  #25  
Cactus
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Thank God I have an early 95 but you probably just became very popular!
Old 05-29-2011, 12:24 AM
  #26  
Steve 96C4S
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So there's nothing for my 96 car that would bypass the immobilizer? I hate the immobilizer. Lets just say without being too specific, that for the last 3 years of ownership it has been the bane of my 993 ownership experience. I'd love to bypass it if there's a way.

This chip you found won't work on my 96, right?

Thanks,
Steve
Old 05-29-2011, 01:16 AM
  #27  
Lorenfb
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"1 chip that does not expect an immobilizer signal"

Right, this has been posted before here on Rennlist, i.e. Just use the
non-immobilizer option DME ECM chip. No relay change is needed,
as posted, just a jumper from pins 30 to 87 which eliminates the
immobilizer control of the #50 from the ignition switch to the starter.

Given all the Porsche DME ECM chip copying being done by the
'performance' chip marketers, a non-immobilizer chip should be
readily available.

"For the life of me I don't understand why this hasn't been common knowledge."

It has been here on Rennlist, not over on the 'Dark Side' where knowledge is
lacking and mis-information is abundant.
Old 05-29-2011, 01:25 AM
  #28  
993James993
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When I bought my 911 Chips I received the non drive block version and it defeated the immobilizer. It also caused a warning lamp to light up on the instrument cluster. I returned it and installed the drive block version.
Old 05-29-2011, 01:55 AM
  #29  
Lorenfb
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"It also caused a warning lamp to light up on the instrument cluster."

Right, because the immobilizer ECU failed to receive the remote command
and in turn kept the alarm light 'on'. One of the many things that the
'performance' chip marketers fail to inform about.
Old 05-29-2011, 07:05 AM
  #30  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
...there is always the potential that the battery in the remote will go belly up at just the wrong time.
Of course there is, but how often do they go?

The battery in my Honda's remote is coming up on 12 years old and it is activated at least a couple of times a day.


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