jnicol

Hi folks,

Looking for some assistance trouble shooting electrical in my Valentine 1 hardwire.
Here is the situation:
- I am Following P-car's DIY Valentine 1 hardwire instructions
- Experienced with auto electrics but not an 'expert'.
- Have a Targa, using the sunroof switch as suggested. Mine is different than instructions and photo and has only three wires. I was able to find a power and a ground in these. This could be the problem as I only have just under 10V on this switch - do the coupe sunroofs have 12V?
- Connected wiring using self stripping tap connectors (V1 provided for positive, supplied my own for ground)

Problem: V1 not turning on (It does work when powered by lighter outlet)

Troubleshooting so far:
- Confirmed power at the fuse on the V1 power source (which confirms my connection).
- Confirmed ground connection good.
- Confirmed switch for targa top still operating top.
- I am getting just under 10V power (directly at the switch, or through the V1 power source) and am wondering if that could be my problem - do I need the full 12V?
- Tried starting the car to see if more power would get it working but did not.
- note also that I have not installed anything else, so the only possible problem here is the wiring set up.

Any ideas? Should I look for another power source?

Thanks in advance!

David in LA

It's been a while since I've done this (did the hardwire with a V1 in both a cab and coupe a few years ago), but IIRC the switch has two power sources (I think because it is a relay?) and you need to tap into the correct one. In one install I soldered into the power wire at the female pin and in the other I just tapped the power wire....didn't have any problems with either.

How did you test that your ground was good? In both installs I grounded using metal frame that supports the console.

jnicol

Thanks for the reply, David.

Power: Both power wires have the same amount of voltage ~ 9.5V. I am guessing that one operates the open, the other the close. So I have tapped one but don't see an advantage to tapping the other. Taking the lead I have connected, and measuring at the fuse opening on the V1 I am able confirm I have the same voltage going to the fuse as I have at the connection.... now whether it passes on beyond the fuse I cannot tell because there is no where to get a tester in. But as mentioned - the fuse looks intact.

Ground: That's a good question and was my first guess at a problem. Initially I did not have a good contact with the tap so I stripped the wire and redid it. Then I tried running a temporary lead to that frame bolt you mention. Then I wired the ground directly to the frame bolt... which when I put a voltmeter on, provides a suitable ground for getting readings. So, I'm pretty sure I have a good ground.

Still not working. Not sure if I should be starting the car? Seems like it should work without starting and just turning the key as I am able to operate the roof with just the key on.

Thanks for any more input!

jnicol

Here is the update with the solution:

Not sure if it is a Targa thing, or specific to my car, but the roof switch only offers about 9.5V which doesn't seem to be enough. With the car running, the lights will light up very dimly at start up. So I went hunting for a full 12V. Through the archives I found a suggestion to use #1 on the OBD plug, which is an orange wire. This is actually more convenient as it is accessed through the side panel in the center console passenger foot well area - where I was already to connect my ground. Double checked and I do have 12V there and my V1 hardwire now works!!

Suggestions for others: This hook up I believe is faster and simpler than the suggested P-car DIY with the roof switch. Open the panel on the passenger side, center console footwell area. Undo the OBD plug and push it back in the cavity, then pull it back out towards the open panel on the passenger side. Simply attach your tap to orange #1, plug it in and there is your power. Ground is easily accessed here also using the big bolt staring you in the face when you open the panel. 13mm to undo and 13mm on the back side if you have to use a wrench to secure for tightening after as I did. I was able to slide the wrench in behind the panel on the driver side without removing. With that done, power resides in that small cavity in the center console and you can run your wires up and out of there. I put my remote display in the ash tray and wired it through the ash tray light path, removing the ash tray light (c'mon, ash tray light?!). Unit is mounted center and above the mirror with wiring following the DIY, but put 3M clearbra on the rough part of the windshield so the suction cups would adhere. May build a bridge out of aluminum attached to the sun visors in the future but for now it seems to be holding well.

David in LA

FYI, you may not have seen my prior post on fabbing this up. Very sturdy and there is no way it is coming loose. Currently I'm looking to adapt the mount to use with a 9500ix.

Gunter

The 12V power connection from the OBD sounds the easiest to do for my little digital Voltmeter to be installed under the dash on the passenger side right next to the console.

Question:
On the right side of the console, opposite the OBD connection is a small round receptacle that looks like a plug-in for something.

What is it?

hawk14414

I can confirm that the Targa switch will not work - mine put out the same 9.5v as yours, Jim. I wound up pulling power from the stereo as I was doing a TrafficPro upgrade at the same time. Sounds like the OBD power tap is the way to go.