Walrod Bushing Installed: Lessons Learned
04-09-2011, 02:44 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Walrod Bushing Installed: Lessons Learned
Just completed the install of a set of Chris' control arms bushings. What a difference! Just as everyone else who has done this has mentioned, the handling went from slop and wobble to precision and stability.
A few things I learned in the process:
Regards,
Terry
A few things I learned in the process:
Preparing to remove the control arms includes not only removing the front wheels, but also the front undertray and the two wind deflectors mounted to the front of each control arm. Go ahead and remove all that stuff and get the pieces and connectors away from the car. Doing so will let you focus on the job without having to stop and deal with minutia.
After you've marked the caster eccentric per FisterD's DIY, loosen all four connectors, but don't remove any until all four connectors are loose. This will keep control arm stable while you get everything loose.
The control arm fit is tight. It is not a drop-out/drop-in fit. Be prepared to push, pull, pry and cuss to get it out (and back in).
After I heated and removed the hats, I found that the best way to clean the bonded rubber off them was a circular wire brush on an electric drill. It took me less than 15 minutes to polish all six hats.
When I cut the large bushing, I found that if I separated the cuts by about 90 degrees (1/4th of the circumference of the bushing), it was easier to chisel out the piece and the larger channel made it easier to collapse the remaining part of the bushing with a punch.
I tried a C-clamp first but found that my large bench vise was better for pressing in both the bushings and the hats. It has broad jaws that enabled me to keep everything aligned and square without having to juggle the c-clamp, control arm and bushing.
When reinstalling the control arm, just finger-tighten everything at first. Then align your caster eccentric (You did mark it didn't you?) and tighten it down firmly. If it wants to move off its marks and you don't have the proper sized key to hold it in place, you can use a set of channel-lock pliers. Once the eccentric is tight, move to the upright mounting bolt and tighten it, recheck the eccentric, then move to the control arms bolts. Once everything is "tight" you can go back and torque to spec.
I found that the easiest way to clean the gorilla snot that Chris calls gease is silicone spray. It works better than WD-40 and doesn't leave as much residue on tools, etc.
Finally, I want to thank all of those who posted information on this job. It all helped in one way or another.After you've marked the caster eccentric per FisterD's DIY, loosen all four connectors, but don't remove any until all four connectors are loose. This will keep control arm stable while you get everything loose.
The control arm fit is tight. It is not a drop-out/drop-in fit. Be prepared to push, pull, pry and cuss to get it out (and back in).
After I heated and removed the hats, I found that the best way to clean the bonded rubber off them was a circular wire brush on an electric drill. It took me less than 15 minutes to polish all six hats.
When I cut the large bushing, I found that if I separated the cuts by about 90 degrees (1/4th of the circumference of the bushing), it was easier to chisel out the piece and the larger channel made it easier to collapse the remaining part of the bushing with a punch.
I tried a C-clamp first but found that my large bench vise was better for pressing in both the bushings and the hats. It has broad jaws that enabled me to keep everything aligned and square without having to juggle the c-clamp, control arm and bushing.
When reinstalling the control arm, just finger-tighten everything at first. Then align your caster eccentric (You did mark it didn't you?) and tighten it down firmly. If it wants to move off its marks and you don't have the proper sized key to hold it in place, you can use a set of channel-lock pliers. Once the eccentric is tight, move to the upright mounting bolt and tighten it, recheck the eccentric, then move to the control arms bolts. Once everything is "tight" you can go back and torque to spec.
I found that the easiest way to clean the gorilla snot that Chris calls gease is silicone spray. It works better than WD-40 and doesn't leave as much residue on tools, etc.
Regards,
Terry
04-09-2011, 04:35 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
I'm also thinking about doing this mod for Rufus (approx 120,000 mi). I'm going to take him over to my mechanic on Monday to have him inspect and use a pry bar (or whatever) to see if the existing bushings are shot (which they should be). Then I will have Chris send me the rebushed control arms, and have my guy do the install. I'll probably also get those RS engine mounts installed at the same time. And its time for the annual oil change (Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50). Questions: 1). does Chris need my old control arms back? 2). How much shop labor time shall I expect for the control arm installation? TIA,.
04-09-2011, 04:39 PM
#7
Race Director
1. Unless you want to buy a set of arms, Chris will need them back since its an exchange program.
2. Just to R&R the control arms, I'd say your looking at about 2 to 2.5 hours.
2. Just to R&R the control arms, I'd say your looking at about 2 to 2.5 hours.
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04-27-2011, 01:39 PM
#10
Race Director
I'm not Terry, but I can guess.
Its gonna take a while.
About 15 minutes to get car on stands, another 15 minutes to remove the center tray and aero shields on each arm. I'd say about 25 minutes per side to remove the lca. Then you got about 20 minutes to get the hats out.
The next part (old bushing shell removal) could take 30 minutes or 4 hours depending on your tools, luck, and abilities. I ended up giving up and taking it to my friends shop with a press, which knocked it out in about 20 minutes.
Once thats done, i'd say about 15 minutes to clean up the hats, another 20 minutes to install and grease the bushings, and 5 minutes to press in the hats. Cleaning time is up to you.
Then i'd say its about 45 minutes to install each LCA assuming a bit of wrestling. Then another 15 to reinstall the plastic bits.
So between 4.5 hours and like 8 hours or more.
Its gonna take a while.
About 15 minutes to get car on stands, another 15 minutes to remove the center tray and aero shields on each arm. I'd say about 25 minutes per side to remove the lca. Then you got about 20 minutes to get the hats out.
The next part (old bushing shell removal) could take 30 minutes or 4 hours depending on your tools, luck, and abilities. I ended up giving up and taking it to my friends shop with a press, which knocked it out in about 20 minutes.
Once thats done, i'd say about 15 minutes to clean up the hats, another 20 minutes to install and grease the bushings, and 5 minutes to press in the hats. Cleaning time is up to you.
Then i'd say its about 45 minutes to install each LCA assuming a bit of wrestling. Then another 15 to reinstall the plastic bits.
So between 4.5 hours and like 8 hours or more.
04-27-2011, 02:07 PM
#11
Race Car
Just to weigh in here. I had this done to 2 of my cars, a former 964 and current 993. Both times the service was done by RUF Dallas. The first time they put the bushings in themselves. I think they charged me for 2 hours labor just to remove the bushings - they hated it. The second time we agreed to do Chris' exchange program. They charged me for 2 hours to remove and install the control arms.
Chris' exchange program is worth the additional cost if you are DIYing it or taking it to your shop.
Chris' exchange program is worth the additional cost if you are DIYing it or taking it to your shop.
04-27-2011, 02:59 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
I am thinking about getting the Walrod bushings through the exchange program with Chris. If I am getting new springs installed at my independent do the control arms get removed when they R&R the shocks and springs or is that something extra they need to remove? I was just wondering about labor costs.
