Silver993

I'm in the process of replacing the SAI valve in my 1997 w/41k miles. There was a brief feeling of accomplishment when I got the thing rotating counter clockwise through use of a chisel and hammer. The joy passed when I realized that the top portion of the valve was moving while the bottom was not...

It seems that use of the specially modified crowsfoot may be my best approach now. Would anyone be willing to load me one for a few days? I'll happily reimburse postage.

current status of the valve:

Jeff96-993

I have one available here, send me a PM with address and I'll send it along.

swmic

Drill a couple of small holes through the outer lip of the valve and pin the halves together using a couple of nails. Easy to do with a cordless drill. Add a bit of heat to the base, put a socket in the top to fill the opening, and spin it out with a pair of channel locks.

Worked like a charm for mine.

deekay911

Hacking works for getting the old one out, but you'll need the tool for puting the new one back in though...

Silver993

I'll only be hacking or drilling if I can't get it off with the hand-made tool Jeff has offered to loan me.

Thanks all!

epj993

Just for future reference, I've made one of these as well and am happy to loan it to whoever needs it.

swmic

drilling a couple small holes is a lot less hacking that's obviously been done already.

Silver993

You're right. I did hack it up a bit already, didn't I?

Jeff96-993

Shipped today.

flatsixforme

Another option is to take the aluminum housing out completely...two banjo fittings and two 10mm bolts and it's out. Then you can heat it up on the bench and use a service wrench in the right diameter (forget but think it's 32 or 36mm). It is dangerous in my opinion to use heat that close to the fuel rails while it is in the car.

You can get a cheap set of service wrenches at harbor freight...always good to have around.

2Many Cars

I struggled with this and even with a crowsfoot couldn't get it off. I finally cut the top off with a cutting wheel on my Dremel and used a deep socket wrench on what was left of the bottom. Even then it came off hard. I used a little anti-sieze on the replacement and only tightened it hand tight. The attached hose will keep it from turning.

Jeff96-993

At 60K miles mine was seized too, but it did give up. I remember it made a loud noise when it finally budged. Like you, I used anti-seize before reinstall. And I also plan to remove at 90K miles, just to check on it.

When I custom cut my crows foot I was very exacting, figuring that any bit of slop in the tool would cause a bad result. Too thin or too wide would be bad. I spent hours back and forth until it just barely slid on. Not sure if it helped but didn't want to take the risk.

Silver993

Finally got the old SAI valve removed and replaced. Thanks goes to Jeff96-993 for use of his hand modified crowsfoot. It fit perfectly and it was what enabled me to get the thing out. Even with the tool, it was not an easy job. It's pretty tight in there. The new one went in with a little anti-seize and only hand tightened. Mine had a washer, which I reused.
The valve appeared to be plugged up and I can't see how any air was getting through. Here's what it looked like (41k miles).

2Many Cars

LOL. Yeah I go to sleep now looking forward to my next SAI check valve change when I can reach in and with a firm twist of the hand just unscrew and remove it. Or am I already asleep and dreaming?

Slow Guy

Ever put an oil filter on only hand tight? Did it come off only using your hand?
But yes, it should be far easier to get off next time.

I use anti-seize and a new washer on mine but I also have my own modified crows foot.