30K mile maintenance question
03-29-2011, 09:32 AM
#1
button queen
Thread Starter
30K mile maintenance question
I have a '96 C2 with just under 28,000 miles. This year I'm doing the 30K stuff, and beyond the standard stuff (spark plug change, belts, distributor caps and rotors, filters, and the rest from the schedule) what other items do I need to see to? For instance:
1. Should the power steering belt (hard to get to and expensive to replace, but looks to be the original) be changed? Porsche recommends every 10 years based on age alone.
2. Do I need to change the spark plug wires "while I'm in there" or do I wait for them to malfunction later?
3. Manual transmission fluid? Brake and slave cylinder flush done last year and oil changes every year so far.
4. Any thing else IYHO?
The question stems from the age of the car rather than the miles. All other periodic maintenance has been performed on the car up to this point. I have a good indy here and will seek his advice too, but intend to do a lot of this myself come Hell or high water.
Finally, is it better to buy parts from Sunset (or other supplier) or my stealer using the PCA 20% discount coupon?
Thanks in adviance.
1. Should the power steering belt (hard to get to and expensive to replace, but looks to be the original) be changed? Porsche recommends every 10 years based on age alone.
2. Do I need to change the spark plug wires "while I'm in there" or do I wait for them to malfunction later?
3. Manual transmission fluid? Brake and slave cylinder flush done last year and oil changes every year so far.
4. Any thing else IYHO?
The question stems from the age of the car rather than the miles. All other periodic maintenance has been performed on the car up to this point. I have a good indy here and will seek his advice too, but intend to do a lot of this myself come Hell or high water.
Finally, is it better to buy parts from Sunset (or other supplier) or my stealer using the PCA 20% discount coupon?
Thanks in adviance.
03-29-2011, 09:37 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Check lower no 5 and 6 spark plug wires, those are the ones that will crack first.
No 5 and 6 are the forward passenger side wires.
The other wires are probably as good as new.
No 5 and 6 are the forward passenger side wires.
The other wires are probably as good as new.
03-29-2011, 09:59 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Dan,
My car has a few more miles (35,000) and I've gone over these same questions....
- Power steering belt is fine. Replace it when the engine comes out for a clutch. It is a robust design - I've seen pics of belts with 100,000 miles on them and they look like new. My indy tech agrees.
- Plug wires - as Akerlie said just go on condition. We check mine every year and they look like new. The cosmoline that was oversprayed on them may crack (like varnish) and make the plug wires look bad, but they are really ok. You should be fine at 30,000 miles, especially if the car has lived in the cooler climates like mine.
- Definitely change the tranny fluid. We use Mobil 1, but others may have different opinions.
My car has a few more miles (35,000) and I've gone over these same questions....
- Power steering belt is fine. Replace it when the engine comes out for a clutch. It is a robust design - I've seen pics of belts with 100,000 miles on them and they look like new. My indy tech agrees.
- Plug wires - as Akerlie said just go on condition. We check mine every year and they look like new. The cosmoline that was oversprayed on them may crack (like varnish) and make the plug wires look bad, but they are really ok. You should be fine at 30,000 miles, especially if the car has lived in the cooler climates like mine.
- Definitely change the tranny fluid. We use Mobil 1, but others may have different opinions.
03-29-2011, 10:46 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Having done the 30,000 mile service... ...and, yes, I did my service based on AGE rather than on mileage...
Do what the maintenance manual recommends, and...
+1 on changing the manny-tranny fluid / brake fluid (flush/bleed the clutch, flush/bleed the brakes).
If you have the 'gold' fluid, then change to, e.g. ATE super BLUE fluid (for two years) and then alternate to 'gold' again.
Really NO need to change the power-steering belt.
Visual inspection (only) of the plug wires. If you've been running the car with the engine tray on (and why is that?) then IMHO (and in the opinion of many) leave the tray off after they've changed the spark-plugs. I asked my indy to "save the plugs" - so that i) I could verify that he was changing ALL of them and ii) the condition of the plugs is an indication of the ignition/combustion/condition of the engine.
Change the fuel filter and the pollen filter(s) and the air filter.
Change all three (fan)belts.
Any car battery (yours is probably and 'interstate') more than 3+ years old _should_ be changed. I personally went with the Optima Red Top (which is a SEALED battery) and haven't looked back since.
Even if you do NOT have a CEL (check engine light) -- do an OBD-ii scan of 'pending' codes.
If the tires are in reasonable condition, but the tires themselves are '10' years old then get new tires.
Take out the red-spare-space-saver tire, inflate it with the air-pump, inspect, deflate then put everything back. In THAT way you know 'stuff works'.
And last but not least -- and yes it's a pain -- change the SAI check-valve.
My $0.02,
Gerry
Do what the maintenance manual recommends, and...
+1 on changing the manny-tranny fluid / brake fluid (flush/bleed the clutch, flush/bleed the brakes).
If you have the 'gold' fluid, then change to, e.g. ATE super BLUE fluid (for two years) and then alternate to 'gold' again.
Really NO need to change the power-steering belt.
Visual inspection (only) of the plug wires. If you've been running the car with the engine tray on (and why is that?) then IMHO (and in the opinion of many) leave the tray off after they've changed the spark-plugs. I asked my indy to "save the plugs" - so that i) I could verify that he was changing ALL of them and ii) the condition of the plugs is an indication of the ignition/combustion/condition of the engine.
Change the fuel filter and the pollen filter(s) and the air filter.
Change all three (fan)belts.
Any car battery (yours is probably and 'interstate') more than 3+ years old _should_ be changed. I personally went with the Optima Red Top (which is a SEALED battery) and haven't looked back since.
Even if you do NOT have a CEL (check engine light) -- do an OBD-ii scan of 'pending' codes.
If the tires are in reasonable condition, but the tires themselves are '10' years old then get new tires.
Take out the red-spare-space-saver tire, inflate it with the air-pump, inspect, deflate then put everything back. In THAT way you know 'stuff works'.
And last but not least -- and yes it's a pain -- change the SAI check-valve.
My $0.02,
Gerry
08-22-2012, 08:17 PM
#6
Race Director
Trending Topics
08-22-2012, 09:00 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-22-2012, 10:32 PM
#10
Race Director
