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Pros/Cons of Locking Out Kinematic Toe

 
Old 05-26-2011, 07:06 PM
  #76  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by Paul902 View Post
But in the RS kit, is 5 softer than 2,3,4? IE did Porsche leave the same kinematic effect in the RS? When you replace with aftermarket rubber bushings you get all the same for 2,3,4,5.
The stiffer RS bushes can be identified by green paint dots, the 993 rear A arms I have have the stiffer bushes, I assume all the others do to.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:09 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by vincer77 View Post
Do monoballs experience short life in all applications? It seems to me (w/o modeling as you suggested earlier) that if all the mounts are solid, then there may be binding in the suspension leading to excessive loads on the *****.
mono-ball life in the environment under the car is never going to be as long as for rubber.

The cars i've seen w/ full mono-ball suspension don't seem to have any problems.

I'm trying rubber boots over the monoballs to see if that helps
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:14 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Greg H. View Post
Bill - Why does the toe link have to be monoball?

I've been thinking about installing the tilt kit, and after this thread, changing out the bushings while I'm at it. Even though my car is 30% track (The other 70% going to and from the track) I am leaning toward the RS style rubber bushings, just because I'm a bit leery of going too far. So the question is the Kinematic bushing: Monoball or RS hard rubber.

Greg H.


Edit: I noticed on all the ads for the aftermarket toe links, they say that there isn't enough adjustment with the factory toe link on a lowered car. My car is pretty low already - maybe I'm runnig too much toe or something else is compromised?
I originally replaced the rear toe links w/ new factory parts, even the RS used the same toe arms. I felt that it was a very unsatisfactory arrangement, even when everything else was up to full RS spec. Last year I gave up and installed mono-ball toe links w/ locks. The difference was night and day. For a track car I wouldn't want it any other way.

You can't get a car much lower than mine, I never had any issues w/ adjustment w/ the stock links, they just don't hold the wheel as steady as is desirable.
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:40 PM
  #79  
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Thanks, Bill.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:09 AM
  #80  
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I am surprised that you can run rigid links and monoballs for all five links without something binding up a bit. I am sure if you were to model this up in CAD it would fully constrain the suspension, so something must be "giving" a little bit. We have a Supravision "vector arm" which can pick 3D points out in space and plot them into CAD, but I am pretty sure my company won't let me model my suspension system in their shop . If anyone does end up modelling the system I would appreciate a copy of the files.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:33 AM
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Thought I'd bring this back from the dead, since we've got other alignment discussion going on...........
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:23 PM
  #82  
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Just read this thread. Very informative.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:39 PM
  #83  
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So here is my take-away:
  • Measure the suspension height after a good alignment
  • Make note of the calibrated adjustment nut position on the rear Kinematic tow setting, left & right.

At the next alignment:
  • Verify and adjust ride height to same as previous alignment;
  • Verify the kinematic adjustment nut is in the same position;
  • Align as normal w/o need to adjust rear kinematic settings.


Do I have this right?
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pp000830 View Post
So here is my take-away:
  • Measure the suspension height after a good alignment
  • Make note of the calibrated adjustment nut position on the rear Kinematic tow setting, left & right.

At the next alignment:
  • Verify and adjust ride height to same as previous alignment;
  • Verify the kinematic adjustment nut is in the same position;
  • Align as normal w/o need to adjust rear kinematic settings.

Do I have this right?
Yes, without any change to components, ride height or adjustment, the KT should be the same. Although, hard driving can induce the KT cam to move. The main thing on KT is that both sides are equal. Use of these locks will secure your KT setting. If you put in the adj. KT arm, this is a must to assure you'll maintain your KT spec.
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