Advice RE: Selling Car with New or Old Tires
01-09-2011, 07:47 PM
#16
Racer
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I am 100% with Chuck on seeing both side. Look at Craigslist and eBay. I think that a set of rear tires should be closer to $200-300 mounted and balanced.
If I would not change tires, I'd use it to my advantage. People will find something wrong with the car and make it a negotiating point. So make it obvious for them. Tell them, right in the ad, that you have specifically did nto change tires to allow for the buyer to exercise their preference. And that you are willing to reduce the price by the cost of a set of tires. That makes buyer happy and less likely to negotiate other points.
PS. "I don't drive in the rain so wear on rear tires is not an issue" is not a valid argument. They are not in good shape and neither are yo when you are braking or cornering wet or dry.
If I would not change tires, I'd use it to my advantage. People will find something wrong with the car and make it a negotiating point. So make it obvious for them. Tell them, right in the ad, that you have specifically did nto change tires to allow for the buyer to exercise their preference. And that you are willing to reduce the price by the cost of a set of tires. That makes buyer happy and less likely to negotiate other points.
PS. "I don't drive in the rain so wear on rear tires is not an issue" is not a valid argument. They are not in good shape and neither are yo when you are braking or cornering wet or dry.
Thanks for the responses so far --
Last edited by User 121721; 01-09-2011 at 09:04 PM.
01-09-2011, 07:52 PM
#17
If the (potential)buyer doesn't know about Sumi III's then simply refer them to this site.
If after that they still don't buy into the idea that they are a fine tire with great value, they would realize that they can sell them to folks here and recoup most of the original cost (if near new.)
They might just be sold on the tires too once they give them a try (as so many here have been, including myself.)
If after that they still don't buy into the idea that they are a fine tire with great value, they would realize that they can sell them to folks here and recoup most of the original cost (if near new.)
They might just be sold on the tires too once they give them a try (as so many here have been, including myself.)
01-09-2011, 07:54 PM
#19
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Slicks are ideal in the dry. But they are slicks. Tires that are designed to have no (actually, minimal) thread. This is not the same as running your tire to wear marks.
There are several reasons for that. One is that, generally, the outside rubber layer is softer on modern tires (especially true for winter tires, but not limited to them). the inner layers are harder compounds and do not stick nearly as well. The trick to "shaving" street tires for racing is to get the thread off enough to still have useful soft compound rubber in contact with asphalt.
The other reason is that any rubber, even street rubber, heat cycles itself to death. By the time you get down to wear marks, especially seeing that it happened over a period of 6 years, you have heated and cooled the tires many, many times. They are hard now, simply because rubber hardens from heating and cooling cycles. Not even mentioning UV from the sun that's also not great for rubber.
These, btw, are the exact reasons why people change tires and proclaim that the new tire is so much better than old model. Not necessarily. It's just... new.
PS. It rains almost every time I'm in SD
Last time I was there in October... like a clockwork
There are several reasons for that. One is that, generally, the outside rubber layer is softer on modern tires (especially true for winter tires, but not limited to them). the inner layers are harder compounds and do not stick nearly as well. The trick to "shaving" street tires for racing is to get the thread off enough to still have useful soft compound rubber in contact with asphalt.
The other reason is that any rubber, even street rubber, heat cycles itself to death. By the time you get down to wear marks, especially seeing that it happened over a period of 6 years, you have heated and cooled the tires many, many times. They are hard now, simply because rubber hardens from heating and cooling cycles. Not even mentioning UV from the sun that's also not great for rubber.
These, btw, are the exact reasons why people change tires and proclaim that the new tire is so much better than old model. Not necessarily. It's just... new.
PS. It rains almost every time I'm in SD
Last time I was there in October... like a clockwork
01-09-2011, 08:35 PM
#20
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I bought my car within last 3 months. I don't necessarily care for the brand of my tires, but they had good tread. First impression matters the most, if your selling a car or a bag of peanuts. Don't over think that and blow your most important moment.
01-09-2011, 09:21 PM
#22
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Slicks are ideal in the dry. But they are slicks. Tires that are designed to have no (actually, minimal) thread. This is not the same as running your tire to wear marks.
There are several reasons for that. One is that, generally, the outside rubber layer is softer on modern tires (especially true for winter tires, but not limited to them). the inner layers are harder compounds and do not stick nearly as well. The trick to "shaving" street tires for racing is to get the thread off enough to still have useful soft compound rubber in contact with asphalt.
The other reason is that any rubber, even street rubber, heat cycles itself to death. By the time you get down to wear marks, especially seeing that it happened over a period of 6 years, you have heated and cooled the tires many, many times. They are hard now, simply because rubber hardens from heating and cooling cycles. Not even mentioning UV from the sun that's also not great for rubber.
These, btw, are the exact reasons why people change tires and proclaim that the new tire is so much better than old model. Not necessarily. It's just... new.
PS. It rains almost every time I'm in SD Last time I was there in October... like a clockwork
There are several reasons for that. One is that, generally, the outside rubber layer is softer on modern tires (especially true for winter tires, but not limited to them). the inner layers are harder compounds and do not stick nearly as well. The trick to "shaving" street tires for racing is to get the thread off enough to still have useful soft compound rubber in contact with asphalt.
The other reason is that any rubber, even street rubber, heat cycles itself to death. By the time you get down to wear marks, especially seeing that it happened over a period of 6 years, you have heated and cooled the tires many, many times. They are hard now, simply because rubber hardens from heating and cooling cycles. Not even mentioning UV from the sun that's also not great for rubber.
These, btw, are the exact reasons why people change tires and proclaim that the new tire is so much better than old model. Not necessarily. It's just... new.
PS. It rains almost every time I'm in SD
Last time I was there in October... like a clockwork
01-09-2011, 09:35 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
When I was looking at my car, the rear tires were worn and ready for replacement. And like almost all low profile / high performance tires that are worn...they rode, felt, and sounded terrible. So bad that I could not really get a decent idea of the way the car rode/drove...couldn't go fast without hearing tire whining...felt ike a wheel was bent...or wheel bearing was bad...etc..etc. So I told the guy that I was not interested in pursuing the transaction unless he put new rear tires on the car. He did, I drove the car again...all felt drove great, and I bought the car. Now, before putting the tires on the car...he had already said that anything I found "wrong" with the car, he would have fixed...so there was no specific negotiation on the new tires he added. So I guess my message is...don't neglect the negative impact the worn tires might (very likely will) have on the ride/performance/feel of the car.
01-09-2011, 11:21 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
When I was looking at my car, the rear tires were worn and ready for replacement. And like almost all low profile / high performance tires that are worn...they rode, felt, and sounded terrible. So bad that I could not really get a decent idea of the way the car rode/drove...couldn't go fast without hearing tire whining...felt ike a wheel was bent...or wheel bearing was bad...etc..etc. So I told the guy that I was not interested in pursuing the transaction unless he put new rear tires on the car. He did, I drove the car again...all felt drove great, and I bought the car. Now, before putting the tires on the car...he had already said that anything I found "wrong" with the car, he would have fixed...so there was no specific negotiation on the new tires he added. So I guess my message is...don't neglect the negative impact the worn tires might (very likely will) have on the ride/performance/feel of the car.
01-09-2011, 11:33 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
+1 for new tires...I would go with Hankook evo112's over the sumi's. (Have owned the sumi III's)
Old tires will give the impression of an under maintained car.
Old tires will give the impression of an under maintained car.
01-10-2011, 05:10 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
New tires +++
After spending $25,000 + for a nice 993, few buyers want to be dinged with another expense. I'd put on new tires and new brake pads. New tires and new brakes has a nice ring to it, agreed? And 993 factory brake pads are cheap. Flush out the brake fluid while you are at it....
With these few changes, you will be optimizing what a 993 is all about, cornering and stopping...sweet!
With these few changes, you will be optimizing what a 993 is all about, cornering and stopping...sweet!
01-10-2011, 10:14 AM
#29
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After all the reponses, I've decided to put new tires on the car. Either new pole positions on the back, or new sumis all around. Thanks everyone for your opinions --
Car has original brakes, which still have plenty of life left on them, do you really think I should replace them if they have plenty of life left?
Car has original brakes, which still have plenty of life left on them, do you really think I should replace them if they have plenty of life left?
