Bilstein HD and M030 tips before install
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bilstein HD and M030 tips before install
Santa has been keeping me busy this xmas and today he dropped off the Bilstein HD struts for me. Nick at the Tirerack always does a good job and I am amazed at how quickly they can get stuff over to me in Aus. Pelican provided the M030 coils - little slower than TR but they both get two thumbs up for service.
Anyway - for the guys who have gone through this before - what does a guy need to know before he starts this project ?
I'm still weighing up weather or not to tackle this project. I've searched and read old posts on drop link problems, cracked mounts, etc, etc. What should I know before hand ?
Thanks in advance.
Ken ...
Anyway - for the guys who have gone through this before - what does a guy need to know before he starts this project ?
I'm still weighing up weather or not to tackle this project. I've searched and read old posts on drop link problems, cracked mounts, etc, etc. What should I know before hand ?
Thanks in advance.
Ken ...
Last edited by haygeebaby; 02-26-2011 at 08:00 AM.
#2
Three Wheelin'
As one who has already done the ViperBob M030/Bilstein HD/beefy swaybar fandango (best mod I've EVER done!!!)
Make sure the 'struts "match up". There were some that were shipped that were 'mirror images' of what they were supposed to be OR several people got 'two lefts' etc. ViperBob/Bilstein came thru' in the end with replacements but there were some heart-stopping moments when the projects were 'started'.
Also, I can unequivocally recommend putting a SECOND set of locking collars on the rear struts. I had a strut 'twist' on me - breaking the droplink so I had my indy take it all out again (yes, much $$$) and _this time_ do it with additional locking collars. Have NOT had a problem since.
Had my car lowered to RS height with NO harsh ride (the wife can attest) and NO bumpsteer. Make sure the installation/alignment is done by an expert (Hunter alignment system) and you'll have a grin on yer face, guaranteed.
Gerry
Make sure the 'struts "match up". There were some that were shipped that were 'mirror images' of what they were supposed to be OR several people got 'two lefts' etc. ViperBob/Bilstein came thru' in the end with replacements but there were some heart-stopping moments when the projects were 'started'.
Also, I can unequivocally recommend putting a SECOND set of locking collars on the rear struts. I had a strut 'twist' on me - breaking the droplink so I had my indy take it all out again (yes, much $$$) and _this time_ do it with additional locking collars. Have NOT had a problem since.
Had my car lowered to RS height with NO harsh ride (the wife can attest) and NO bumpsteer. Make sure the installation/alignment is done by an expert (Hunter alignment system) and you'll have a grin on yer face, guaranteed.
Gerry
#3
Rennlist Member
+1 on the double lock collars on the rears and get them TIGHT. There are a few very good threads on this board that make it fairly simple. Take your time and bring it to a competent shop that can align and corner balance a 993. This is a very important final step. Settle on a ride height before you begin so you can set the rear spring perches. You can't adjust them easily AFTER you install them.
#4
Rennlist Member
A must read before the project is Jeff's DIY suspension install for Dummies .... almost everything you need is there.
Do the second lockring ( one above & one below) on the rear link mounts!
There is a trick to getting the correct orientation for the top mount on the rear shock: note carefully the position when removing .... or read the chapter in the WSM's ( download from cannell, or PM for a link): info may be in the DIY above too ....
Do the second lockring ( one above & one below) on the rear link mounts!
There is a trick to getting the correct orientation for the top mount on the rear shock: note carefully the position when removing .... or read the chapter in the WSM's ( download from cannell, or PM for a link): info may be in the DIY above too ....
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Gee thanks for the info boys.
Where can I get an extra set of lock collars ? What about the tooll to turn the thing ?
Where can I get an extra set of lock collars ? What about the tooll to turn the thing ?
Last edited by haygeebaby; 12-29-2010 at 07:33 AM.
#6
You should have gotten the wrench to adjust height with the shocks, but mine didn't come with it either. You can order one from Paragon/Pelican/Steve W or anybody that sells Bilstein.
Get all new bolts/washers from Porsche before starting. You are bound to damage or destroy some while removing. Definitely do the locking collars or the rear! Get a god shop to do the alignment and make sure they know what kenimatic toe is, and how to set it.
Get all new bolts/washers from Porsche before starting. You are bound to damage or destroy some while removing. Definitely do the locking collars or the rear! Get a god shop to do the alignment and make sure they know what kenimatic toe is, and how to set it.
#7
Rennlist Member
I purchased the tool and extra collars direct from Bilstien North America. I ended up using a brass drift and a hammer to get the collars tight after corner balance and alignment.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok - let me see if I can get hold of the parts first and talk to the Tirerack to see if the tool should have been included.
What about alignment specs ? What specs do you guys recommend ?
Car is 90% street. Very few track days. I like to drive fast in the twisties.
What about alignment specs ? What specs do you guys recommend ?
Car is 90% street. Very few track days. I like to drive fast in the twisties.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
After a few hours of work over the last few nights I've managed to get almost everything out and disassembled.
I still haven't taken the front struts apart. Trying to do it without the hazet open face socket. Tried for about 30 minutes today and gave up. Anyone do it without the hazet tool ?
The rears eventually came apart. The old struts where totally gone. I could easily compress the struts.
Can't wait to get this bucket of bolts back together so I can go for a night drive. Weather is so nice in Perth right now.
I still haven't taken the front struts apart. Trying to do it without the hazet open face socket. Tried for about 30 minutes today and gave up. Anyone do it without the hazet tool ?
The rears eventually came apart. The old struts where totally gone. I could easily compress the struts.
Can't wait to get this bucket of bolts back together so I can go for a night drive. Weather is so nice in Perth right now.
Last edited by haygeebaby; 02-26-2011 at 08:00 AM.
#10
Rennlist Member
Re the front struts, as they are 'history', the top nut can be spun off with an air/impact gun .... no worry about damaging the shaft seal if the shaft spins. If no air tools, slip a deep well socket over the shaft & nut .... and insert the correct size Allan key into the shaft: lock the socket with a set of vise grips, ditto for the Allan key, and remove the nut while counterholding the shaft. This is a warm-up for assembly of the new HD's
BTW, some deep well sockets have a spanner hex on top, so no need for vise grips.
CAUTION: .. there may be considerable compression on the captive spring, so installation of a spring compressor is advised before removal of the strut nut. If one is not available, loosely refit the strut to the car ( one bolt in the bottom will do), and jack up the lower control arm to support the assembly. remove the nut from within the hood opening, and ease off on the jack ( while the car is still supported on jack stands) .... spring safely off.
I don't think compressors are needed for the new MO30's, but the new spring/strut could be captured in reverse of the above - using the weight of the car & a jack as a safety compressor.
BTW, some deep well sockets have a spanner hex on top, so no need for vise grips.
CAUTION: .. there may be considerable compression on the captive spring, so installation of a spring compressor is advised before removal of the strut nut. If one is not available, loosely refit the strut to the car ( one bolt in the bottom will do), and jack up the lower control arm to support the assembly. remove the nut from within the hood opening, and ease off on the jack ( while the car is still supported on jack stands) .... spring safely off.
I don't think compressors are needed for the new MO30's, but the new spring/strut could be captured in reverse of the above - using the weight of the car & a jack as a safety compressor.
#11
Burning Brakes
Another way is to make your own Hazet socket. I couldnt find one around here so we made one out of a long normal craftsman socket and an hour with a dremel. You can cut a window out of the side and it works great. also was very cheap to make as well.
After a few hours of work over the last few nights I've managed to get almost everything out and disassembled.
I still haven't taken the front struts apart. Trying to do it without the hazet open face socket. Tried for about 30 minutes today and gave up. Anyone do it without the hazet tool ?
The rears eventually came apart. The old struts where totally gone. I could easily compress the struts.
Can't wait to get this bucket of bolts back together so I can go for a night drive. Weather is so nice in Perth right now.
I still haven't taken the front struts apart. Trying to do it without the hazet open face socket. Tried for about 30 minutes today and gave up. Anyone do it without the hazet tool ?
The rears eventually came apart. The old struts where totally gone. I could easily compress the struts.
Can't wait to get this bucket of bolts back together so I can go for a night drive. Weather is so nice in Perth right now.
#12
Drifting
Get an electricic impact gun. They are like $40 and it will always come in handy.
,!!!! Double colar the rears. I didn't and the alignment was so far off they had to adjust the drop link and required remove of the rears. In other words...I had to pay somebody for something I just did.
,!!!! Double colar the rears. I didn't and the alignment was so far off they had to adjust the drop link and required remove of the rears. In other words...I had to pay somebody for something I just did.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips boys. Looks like the home made hazet - recommended by ryano has paid off.
Front suspension disassembled.
Now all we have to do is to make the second home made hazet tool in size 22.
Front suspension disassembled.
Now all we have to do is to make the second home made hazet tool in size 22.
Last edited by haygeebaby; 02-26-2011 at 08:00 AM.
#15
Burning Brakes