need to access the knowledge base
12-20-2010, 06:07 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
To go back to square one, the car idles normal when cold but high only after warmup?
To idle high, air has to be getting in somewhere. A truly closed throttle butterfly should not allow enough air past to bring idle to 2500+. And enough of a vacuum leak to allow that should trigger all manner of poor running under load.
Here's a situation where having a friendly local specialist pays dividends. I can't count the number of times I had a guy track me down to figure out running problems from a DIY airbox removal or attempt to tune his MFI when I had my shop.
To idle high, air has to be getting in somewhere. A truly closed throttle butterfly should not allow enough air past to bring idle to 2500+. And enough of a vacuum leak to allow that should trigger all manner of poor running under load.
Here's a situation where having a friendly local specialist pays dividends. I can't count the number of times I had a guy track me down to figure out running problems from a DIY airbox removal or attempt to tune his MFI when I had my shop.
12-20-2010, 06:27 PM
#17
Race Car
Thread Starter
Rick,
If you are going to spend $100 to have the codes read, I would probably just buy a Durametric cable or the homemade one on the 964 board. It would pay for itself pretty quickly.
With that you can see which sensors are working.
If your throttle cable is not adjusted correctly you will not trip the WOT sensor. You can have someone manually hold the throttle wide open when you turn on the key to see if the codes read out. If it works then, you just need to readjust the cable.
If you are going to spend $100 to have the codes read, I would probably just buy a Durametric cable or the homemade one on the 964 board. It would pay for itself pretty quickly.
With that you can see which sensors are working.
If your throttle cable is not adjusted correctly you will not trip the WOT sensor. You can have someone manually hold the throttle wide open when you turn on the key to see if the codes read out. If it works then, you just need to readjust the cable.
12-20-2010, 06:29 PM
#18
Race Car
Thread Starter
SOLVED!!!!!!
$105 at the dealer to tell me that I had switched the khrottle position Sensor and the knock sensor plugs....Expensive lesson learned.
The good news: Now my car is PERFECT!!!!!!! Love the LWF!!!!!
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Erik: DO it tomorrow!!!!
$105 at the dealer to tell me that I had switched the khrottle position Sensor and the knock sensor plugs....Expensive lesson learned.
The good news: Now my car is PERFECT!!!!!!! Love the LWF!!!!!
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Erik: DO it tomorrow!!!!
12-20-2010, 06:56 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
SOLVED!!!!!!
$105 at the dealer to tell me that I had switched the khrottle position Sensor and the knock sensor plugs....Expensive lesson learned.
The good news: Now my car is PERFECT!!!!!!! Love the LWF!!!!!
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Erik: DO it tomorrow!!!!
$105 at the dealer to tell me that I had switched the khrottle position Sensor and the knock sensor plugs....Expensive lesson learned.
The good news: Now my car is PERFECT!!!!!!! Love the LWF!!!!!
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Erik: DO it tomorrow!!!!
For my durametric to work I have to choose 964 model to read the DME and CCU and 993 for ABS and Airbag. Mine is an early 718 code manufactured 3/94 and I read someone else had to do the same thing for an early car.
I can't do it tomorrow, but I will next weekend, Merry Christmas to me. Car is in the air with most of the parts out of the way, engine and trans should be on the ground pretty quick though. I am going to test the engine drop in a small garage thoery out. Most of the underside components and bumper are now cleaned and in my basement, the back seat of the car is holding rear lights, airbox and other under hood parts. This is going to be tight if my wife's car is going to stay in the garage.
Glad you are happy with it so far.
Thanks again for the great deal on my LWF. Have a Happy Holiday.
12-20-2010, 07:13 PM
#21
Race Car
Thread Starter
Erik:
It looks like we are buying another airplane from The place in Alton. So I will be back there sometime in Jan! If you're still in progress. I'm happy to help. I'll keep the plugs organized for you.
It looks like we are buying another airplane from The place in Alton. So I will be back there sometime in Jan! If you're still in progress. I'm happy to help. I'll keep the plugs organized for you.
12-20-2010, 08:45 PM
#24
Race Car
Thread Starter
12-20-2010, 10:17 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Great. I am glad to see you solved your problem. It is also a good lesson for me as I am about to do a clutch job on my car. I think I will put little paper tags on each side of every disconnected part.
12-21-2010, 03:02 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Congrats, Merry Xmas !!!
12-21-2010, 03:54 PM
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
What I learned is that the plugs are color coded. If you plug green to green or black to black, you'll be fine. There are some that are the same configuration, but different colors.
12-21-2010, 05:52 PM
#30
Race Car
Thread Starter
