OBD1 CEL code procedure?
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 205
From: Paris
To trigger the flashing code, fully depress the accelerator pedal for 3 seconds with the engine off
and the ignition on until the Check-Engine lamp flashes. Then ease off the throttle.
posted everything on pcarworkshop, if you need anything else, let me know, regards
and the ignition on until the Check-Engine lamp flashes. Then ease off the throttle.
posted everything on pcarworkshop, if you need anything else, let me know, regards
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 817
Likes: 8
From: Near St Louis
EDIT: geolab beat me to it.
I used this procedure before I got my durametric and it worked for me.
The following procedure identifies how to extract the fault codes using the Check Engine Light system:
With the car turned completely off (it shouldn't matter if it's warmed up or not), put your foot on the accelerator pedal and push the pedal to the floor.
Put the key in the ignition, and rotate it clockwise until all the lights on the dash (check engine, !, ABS, etc.) come on., but DO NOT TURN THE KEY FAR ENOUGH OVER TO START THE CAR. Leave the key in this position.
Wait a few seconds until the check engine light flashes. This seems to vary with software releases with some taking longer and some taking shorter, but it's typically 3-5 seconds. These initial flashes are NOT part of the engine codes. If you wait for the lights to go out completely, you may end up resetting the DME, so move quickly to the next step after seeing the first flash.
Take your foot completely off the accelerator pedal and start watching the check engine light. On my car, the check engine light flashes once briefly right after I take my foot off the gas pedal, but this is NOT part of the codes being generated, it's just an indicator that the system is about to start spitting out codes.
Watch (and count) the sequences of flashes. The "no faults recorded" code is 1500, which means you will see one flash (the first digit in 1500), a pause, and then five more quick flashes (the second digit in 1500) and then a longer pause. This code will repeat itself.
If you've received a real fault code (not 1500 described above), once you have recorded the code, punch the accelerator pedal and release it once. If another code is stored, then it will show up. When all codes have been retrieved the check engine light will put out a code 1000 (a single pulse) to indicate that all the codes have been retrieved.
I would recommend that anyone with a U.S. model with this system try it out before they have a problem so they get a feel for how the systems works.
NOTE: In order for this system to work properly, the DME must sense the wide open throttle microswitch. If this switch is not making this contact properly while pushing the gas pedal all the way to the floor, then this procedure will not work. In such instances, your system may need some adjustments, and the DME will never go into self diagnostic mode. Please keep in mind that for the most part the active Check Engine Light applies to 1991 and greater US MODELS ONLY! It will not work on ROW 964s!
How's the new flywheel? I am getting ready to start on mine.
I used this procedure before I got my durametric and it worked for me.
Originally Posted by Bill Wagner
The following procedure identifies how to extract the fault codes using the Check Engine Light system:
With the car turned completely off (it shouldn't matter if it's warmed up or not), put your foot on the accelerator pedal and push the pedal to the floor.
Put the key in the ignition, and rotate it clockwise until all the lights on the dash (check engine, !, ABS, etc.) come on., but DO NOT TURN THE KEY FAR ENOUGH OVER TO START THE CAR. Leave the key in this position.
Wait a few seconds until the check engine light flashes. This seems to vary with software releases with some taking longer and some taking shorter, but it's typically 3-5 seconds. These initial flashes are NOT part of the engine codes. If you wait for the lights to go out completely, you may end up resetting the DME, so move quickly to the next step after seeing the first flash.
Take your foot completely off the accelerator pedal and start watching the check engine light. On my car, the check engine light flashes once briefly right after I take my foot off the gas pedal, but this is NOT part of the codes being generated, it's just an indicator that the system is about to start spitting out codes.
Watch (and count) the sequences of flashes. The "no faults recorded" code is 1500, which means you will see one flash (the first digit in 1500), a pause, and then five more quick flashes (the second digit in 1500) and then a longer pause. This code will repeat itself.
If you've received a real fault code (not 1500 described above), once you have recorded the code, punch the accelerator pedal and release it once. If another code is stored, then it will show up. When all codes have been retrieved the check engine light will put out a code 1000 (a single pulse) to indicate that all the codes have been retrieved.
I would recommend that anyone with a U.S. model with this system try it out before they have a problem so they get a feel for how the systems works.
NOTE: In order for this system to work properly, the DME must sense the wide open throttle microswitch. If this switch is not making this contact properly while pushing the gas pedal all the way to the floor, then this procedure will not work. In such instances, your system may need some adjustments, and the DME will never go into self diagnostic mode. Please keep in mind that for the most part the active Check Engine Light applies to 1991 and greater US MODELS ONLY! It will not work on ROW 964s!
