Corossion on Rear Chassis..
12-20-2010, 11:59 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Having lived in Ireland for a year, I can't remember seeing much more than a dusting of snow that didn't melt by lunchtime. So I doubt they put down any road salt, unless thing have changed.
But living next to an ocean will cause more corrosion than living inland.
The best product that I've come across and one that we've tested at work (salt spray chamber, ability to creep, etc) is Krown T-40 which I've personally used since 1990 on my vehicles. One that we sold sixteen years later had zero rust after sixteen harsh Canadian winters...and we use road salt...lots of it.
After eleven harsh winters, this is the right shock tower mount on my Honda that was protected by Krown T-40...
But living next to an ocean will cause more corrosion than living inland.
The best product that I've come across and one that we've tested at work (salt spray chamber, ability to creep, etc) is Krown T-40 which I've personally used since 1990 on my vehicles. One that we sold sixteen years later had zero rust after sixteen harsh Canadian winters...and we use road salt...lots of it.
After eleven harsh winters, this is the right shock tower mount on my Honda that was protected by Krown T-40...
12-20-2010, 01:12 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Just took mine of and no rust at all, waxed the area well and mounted the supports again.
I think my car has seen about 6 winters in Minnesota, the car has never seen norwegian winter roads as they are heavily salted
The top part should definitely be sealed to avoid moisture between the plates.
I think my car has seen about 6 winters in Minnesota, the car has never seen norwegian winter roads as they are heavily salted
The top part should definitely be sealed to avoid moisture between the plates.
12-21-2010, 05:00 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Just took mine of and no rust at all, waxed the area well and mounted the supports again.
I think my car has seen about 6 winters in Minnesota, the car has never seen norwegian winter roads as they are heavily salted
The top part should definitely be sealed to avoid moisture between the plates.
I think my car has seen about 6 winters in Minnesota, the car has never seen norwegian winter roads as they are heavily salted
The top part should definitely be sealed to avoid moisture between the plates.
I wonder what it is that has affected all the cars I've heard about on this side of the pond!
Anyone else checked theirs??
12-21-2010, 03:21 PM
#19
Drifting
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Considering how many of us replace our mufflers, this check should be a no-brainer "while you're in there."
Taking this and Colin's thread into account, I'm now that ALL of our cars have these unpainted surfaces, so the next time I'm in there, I plan to at least do some wire brushing and cleaning and spray some gray primer. Also considering ordering up some Midnight Blue in a rattle can from PaintScratch. Although I already have some "dark blue" for my VW that's probably "good enough" for this 100% invisible application, Andreas would lose any remaining respect for me.
Am I'm missing something?
Taking this and Colin's thread into account, I'm now that ALL of our cars have these unpainted surfaces, so the next time I'm in there, I plan to at least do some wire brushing and cleaning and spray some gray primer. Also considering ordering up some Midnight Blue in a rattle can from PaintScratch. Although I already have some "dark blue" for my VW that's probably "good enough" for this 100% invisible application, Andreas would lose any remaining respect for me.
Am I'm missing something?
Last edited by dcdude; 12-21-2010 at 04:44 PM.
12-22-2010, 09:23 AM
#22
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
12-24-2010, 11:28 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
I tore mine down this afternoon and everything looked good. There was corrosion between the plate and the chassis, but nothing that won't clean up. The bottom and sides were sealed pretty good, but the top is vulnerable. I'm going to prime and paint then reassemble. After reading the first post from 9m a couple of weeks ago, I just had to see. I'm glad I did.
Randy
Randy
01-04-2011, 08:27 PM
#26
The best product that I've come across and one that we've tested at work (salt spray chamber, ability to creep, etc) is Krown T-40 which I've personally used since 1990 on my vehicles. One that we sold sixteen years later had zero rust after sixteen harsh Canadian winters...and we use road salt...lots of it.
After eleven harsh winters, this is the right shock tower mount on my Honda that was protected by Krown T-40...
After eleven harsh winters, this is the right shock tower mount on my Honda that was protected by Krown T-40...
Seriously though, thanks for posting about this, I've been wondering what sort of products are available for this sort of protection and this looks to fit the bill. (Seattle just started using salt and such during Winter.)
01-04-2011, 09:18 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Is it available in a quantity less than a 50gal drum?
Seriously though, thanks for posting about this, I've been wondering what sort of products are available for this sort of protection and this looks to fit the bill. (Seattle just started using salt and such during Winter.)
Seriously though, thanks for posting about this, I've been wondering what sort of products are available for this sort of protection and this looks to fit the bill. (Seattle just started using salt and such during Winter.)
An annual application is:
- the complete underside of the vehicle
- inside all channels/frame members on the underside
- the engine compartment and lid
- the trunk and lid
- inside of front fenders and rear quarter panels
- insides of all doors
Don't expect your car to look like a garage queen, but it will be as protected against rust as good as it possibly can be. If desired, the product can be washed off with a water based degreaser such as Swish Facto AT-30.
The product becomes more effective after the second application when some dirt has built up.
I never drill holes. There are plenty of rubber access plugs on most cars (very few on a Porsche) that I remove, apply the Krown and then replace the rubber plug. B pillars in cars usually have rubber grommets for the PW & PL wiring. I remove my door panels on the Honda to spray my doors.
You'll need an application gun (Eastwood) and 2 HP compressor with 20 gallon tank will do. You could also apply it by brush, but how would that get it into frame members. The product creeps.
Any more questions, ask or PM me.
01-04-2011, 10:31 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
It is light brown, sort of like honey, but a lot thinner. The other product Krown has is light red and is called T-32. Its good, but I highly recommend T-40, especially on the underside.
It will never harden (it can't) like tar.
Tar or any coating like it is the last thing you want to apply as an undercoating. Those dry out, crack and then hold salt and moisture between the body and the layer of undercoating.
The only minor IMO downside to Krown T-40 is that it can cause spongy rubber seals to swell. Those are the seals that you usually find along the bottom edge of a front hood on Hondas for example. Harder rubber seals can get slightly wavy, but you have to douse them...as I do. Simple, keep the product away from those.
It will never harden (it can't) like tar.
Tar or any coating like it is the last thing you want to apply as an undercoating. Those dry out, crack and then hold salt and moisture between the body and the layer of undercoating.
The only minor IMO downside to Krown T-40 is that it can cause spongy rubber seals to swell. Those are the seals that you usually find along the bottom edge of a front hood on Hondas for example. Harder rubber seals can get slightly wavy, but you have to douse them...as I do. Simple, keep the product away from those.
01-04-2011, 10:41 PM
#30
Instructor
Well after this thread and the 9m thread I was freaked about mine.
Here is what I found and my advice to others during inspection:
From the outside it looks ok but it looks different than yours. There is no color painted, just the white primer. It felt solid and I was not sure about pulling the mount free and splitting the original primer.
I was still curious and took it loose anyway.
As you can see no rust
But there is unpainted metal around the studs, I guess mine was sealed good enough not to let in water. Lucky I guess.
The mount was still in good shape, the same exposed metal in the center around the stud holes.
I got the other side loose and it was pretty much the same.
If I were starting over I would have left the original mounts in place, I was pretty sure from looking at it and tapping on the mount that there was no rust behind it. I would have just cleaned all the road grime off the top and made sure the top was sealed along the seam.
So I will clean it all up and paint the stud area, then seal the seam at the top of the cover, it should be good for another 17 years.
Sorry for the rust damage on your car but I am glad you posted for others to learn.
Here is what I found and my advice to others during inspection:
From the outside it looks ok but it looks different than yours. There is no color painted, just the white primer. It felt solid and I was not sure about pulling the mount free and splitting the original primer.
I was still curious and took it loose anyway.
As you can see no rust
But there is unpainted metal around the studs, I guess mine was sealed good enough not to let in water. Lucky I guess.
The mount was still in good shape, the same exposed metal in the center around the stud holes.
I got the other side loose and it was pretty much the same.
If I were starting over I would have left the original mounts in place, I was pretty sure from looking at it and tapping on the mount that there was no rust behind it. I would have just cleaned all the road grime off the top and made sure the top was sealed along the seam.
So I will clean it all up and paint the stud area, then seal the seam at the top of the cover, it should be good for another 17 years.
Sorry for the rust damage on your car but I am glad you posted for others to learn.