nile13

A Rennlister is selling springs that I'm interested in. We are trying to figure out what the springs actually are.

1. The fronts have two Green marks. Rears have three Orange marks.

2. Springs came from Brumos as "lowering" springs.

As far as I can tell, these could be US M030, although there is two Green marks instead of Orange/Green/Green. Also, Brumos might have shorten this springs if they are US-based. Below are a pair of pics just in case.

Does anyone know what these could be? And, specifically, what Brumos did with springs.

Garth S

The green stripes are rear springs - note the heavy wire & smaller diameter coils vs. the fronts: I have a similar pair in the parts pile from a US C4S, presumably US MO30; however, they have 3 green stripes, indicating the heavier load range for the WB car.

The narrow diameter wire coiled to a larger spring diameter is most likely the matching US MO30 fronts.

All depends on what you want to accomplish .... if going to HD's with the intent of lowering to say, ROW Sport , go to a set of real ROW MO30's .... the fronts on the latter are marked as you indicate, and are wound of a tapered diameter wire - the expensive & better way to achieve a progressive rate spring ( some might say). I cannot tell from the pic if the fronts are wound as a progressive spring.

My 'greens' are in the parts pile, along with a pair of Eibach fronts, for a reason ....

nile13

Garth, thanks!

The idea is to go with HDs or FSRs or Yellows. The only reason I'm looking at M030 is that it;ll keep me in Stock for a very occasional autocross that I might want to do in this car instead of my regular appliance. Although my 993 doesn't have LSD, so classing might not be relevant to results anyway.

But I'm even more confused. If we are to say that these are US M030, why two green stripes and why three orange on the front?

nile13

To refresh again - front green/orange are RoW M030/RoW Turbo springs. The rears that match them are brown/brown for RoW M030 and red/red for RoW Turbo.

Now, what's the actual difference between the Row M030 and RoW Turbo rear springs? Will RoW Turbo setup work well on a C2 cab on the street, probably with Koni's new FSD shocks? The plan is to use them with M030 sways.

Garth S

AFAIK, the 'red/red' rears have a marginally higher compression rate ( re extra weight of the turbo & WB).... that may be due to thicker wire, or another half coil or so in the spring length: I do not have the normal MO30 rear to compare to the turbo 'red/red' set installed in my C4S.
That said, I have the 'turbo' MO30 spring set plus ROW MO30 bars over HD's in my car, and quite enjoy the set up.

Re. FSD's ... installed a set over stock springs in wifey's DD, a 1.8T Passat wagon - a very good result! Possibly far out on a limb of speculation, but that experience might suggest that ROW MO33's to be a better mateh than MO30's with FSD's: Hope that someone with real experience can chime in ...

Van1

I used RoW turbo M030 rear springs with Bilstein HDs for a year on my 993. The ride was fine (I prefer stiff)and worked well at the track. Only real note I have is that with the HDs fully bottomed out, RoW sport height was as low as I could get the rear to go using these springs. I assume that this was due to using a spring intended for a heavier car in the rear.

cpdjfd107

My car has the Koni FSD on it with stock springs. I purchased MO33 to be installed as soon as the winter is over. From asking a few people on here and also Gert at Carnewal M033 was the way to go wit the FSD's for street use. I would assume they woud be ok also for an occasional autocross.

nile13

I'm looking for RoW height, no lower. I believe that my previous cab on HDs/H&Rs was at RoW height and that was plenty low for me for a street cab.

So... short fo going for M033s, this set of RoW Turbo springs sounds like a good combo to me with FSDs or SA or HDs (have not decided yet).

It's good to hear about plea

I'm glad to hear peoplle liking FSDs. Garth, any subjective comparison to HD's? I understand FSDs will be more compliant on bad roads. But how are they in more spirited driving?

PS. If I go with M033s, where do I buy them and what do they cost?

nile13

Guys, quick confirmation needed. I'm about to pick up a set of springs for another rennlister. The markings are Green/Green/Orange and Orange/Orange/Orange. Please tell me what these are 9and why there are three marks instead of two)?

For a bonus question - I have M030 sway bars that will replace the regular C2 bars. Do I need new brackets or just new bushings? And where do I get them?

Finally - Walrod bushings for a street car? Yes or no and why?

MrBonus

These are the springs in question. I too want to confirm they're M030 RoW before selling them to a Rennlister.

Garth S

If the rear springs have brown paint vs orange, they should be ROW MO30's .... and it looks more brown than orange in your pics.
The 3 dabs vs 2 is a trick Porsche uses in sorting springs of a given spec range into tolerance groups ..... a fine sorting once actual compression is measured: the 3 dabs sometimes indicates a slightly stiffer range to accomodate options, eg AC .... or so i was led to believe.

The first pic has front springs on the left, rears on the right: top row is Turbo MO30, last is H&R. Second is stock 'SUV' height IIRC, and the third from top is Eibach front & MO30 (SUV height) rear.

On the fronts, one can distinguish the various ways to make a progressive spring ... nothing comes close to the ROW version IMHO.

For the rears, note the coil count 7 for the Turbo ROW vs 8.25 on the NA MO30 ..... and wire gauge/diameter also varies.

Anyway, looks like ROW springs in your mitts ...

Yes, same clips for the bars, but larger ID bushings are req'd for MO30's ...... see Sunset, etc.


caught your earlier query .... if I were to use my 4S as a DD, I suspect that I could be quite satisfied with FSD's & MO33's

Van1

Yep, looks like non turbo RoW M030 springs.

Just need to get the correct bushings for the M030 bars. Order them through your dealer or Sunset. Good luck with the front bar if you are doing it yourself. I was going to replace my M030 front bar with a Ruf 23mm bar but couldn't figure out how to get the mounts out without unbolting and lowering the subframe. Stuck with my 22mm M030 front bar and easily installed a Ruf 21mm rear bar and called it good.

Magdaddy

[QUOTE=nile13;8225198
Finally - Walrod bushings for a street car? Yes or no and why?[/QUOTE]

a big YES here... They will stiffen up the front end(in a good way)significantly reduce tramlining and wandering, much improved turn in, and steering response. Next time your cab is up on the lift, take a good look at the stock control arm bushings..I bet you'll find cracks in the rubber.

A MUST, IMHO

nile13

Thank you. gentlemen!

On Walrod bushings... how hard are thy to install? Especially pressing the control arm bushings in an out. Do they have to be lubricated periodically, or are they rubber-based?