jay@EZimmoblock.com

Steve - the second picture in your post 45 looks like mine did. Pushing it down flattened it to the point where it covered the gap - it just wouldn't STAY down. When I removed the trim to do the TSB I discovered that the slot in the plastic frame that grabs the trim's tang was too wide to do it's job. On further investigation, I found that the channel was cracked and had no chance of gripping the tang. Maybe that's what's letting your trim "hump up" and not flatten? Lift the trim and have a look. BTW, I fixed mine by temporarily closing the gap to the right clearance with tile spacers then backfilling per the TSB.

stevensivak

The installer has been aware of the issue and we will pull the trim and measure the side to side position.
If it is off, then we have to reset. If it is within spec, then we do the TSB. Some here have suggested Window Weld
and others a curing type of product. We may the adhesive that holds the window in or we may look for something more
"tool able" that we can control easier.

What is a tile spacer?

mike cap

The 3M Window Weld Ribbon Sealer is fine for cavity filling use. It’s not meant for installing the ws as an adhesive bedding material. Do not use it for that purpose. 3M has other ws adhesives in cartridge form that cure.

Doing measuring or resetting the ws without having the templates is waste of time. The ws is installed three dimensionally - up/down, side/side and in/out (depth). You can’t measure depth without the templates.

jay@EZimmoblock.com

Plastic wedges for setting ceramic tile. I pushed them into the gap to narrow the slot in the plastic trim and hold it there. After backfilling with goop I pulled them out and the slot stayed narrow enough to hold the rubber trim from popping out. If your trim stays in when you push it down, you’re ok. Mine didn’t and this fixed it.

mike cap

Jay, that’s a good “caveman” fix. You should post that as a separate thread if you have pics. The channel seems to lose it’s spring with age. The rear is especially an issue with the engine heat baking the plastic.

jay@EZimmoblock.com

Yeah, wasn't pretty but the end justified the means and it was a lot cheaper than a WS replacement. Somewhere in the past someone "solved" the trim retention problem by gluing it down (ugh). I discovered this when I removed the trim to do the backfill per the TSB. When I got all the glue cleaned out I saw that the plastic slot was 2-3 times wider than normal in places so couldn't grip the tang on the trim. If had had any idea it was going to work as well as it did I would have taken some pics but unfortunately I didn't. The process is easy to explain, though. If anyone would like more info, let me know.