Pep Talk
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Pep Talk
I apologize for the lengthy post
The current situation concerns me. While generally, the car runs well with no obvious misses at idle like it had when the wires etc were toasted, there is a "hesitation' when you get down on it that will disappear after a certain point in the rpms and then it feels like you have tapped into the motherload of what the car can do. (I also won't address the case of the Tach that suddenly and un-relatedly registers as if the engine is not running - ie 100 -300 rpm's indicated. (I'm still looking into finding one I can swap out for a few moments to see if it is gauge related, or something else). I recently noted there is a "ping" sound which I heard for the first time since I graced my beast with Fister 2s that is clear and distinct when running through a tunnel or when a wall is conveniently along side. We have sensitively and steadily eliminated areas of concern, as my guy does not want to go on an unrestrained fishing expedition given the fact that this purchase is more of a money pit than it could ever be a cash cow (no matter how high values may climb) and everybody knows there is no money in teaching (my chosen field,) no matter how important education is to our ultimate goal of person comfort. But what we seem to have come to is that the consistent code for the number three cylinder may be related to a bad injector.
I thought a prudent approach might be to say, "Oh hell! For $25@, let's just send them all out to be re-conditioned to a place another Rl'r said did good work and I'll only have to pay for disassembly once plus the cost of the re-installation after the extraction. He argued that if we do it "his" way, (switch the injectors, wait a bit and then re-scan the car,) it could point more directly to the problem IF the injector is not what is wrong. Further, my method might leave me with newly spec'd injectors and still the cause of the codes might not be disclosed in which case I will have upgraded my fuel delivery but will not have made the problem go away.
Of course his method will involve opening the can of worms yet again once we see if the codes throw again and move from #2 to #3, but I do trust this man with more than my car. At this point, this week, he is going to switch #2 with #3 to see if the problem follows the move after I have driven for a bit and the codes reset.
Does this approach seem right to you? If not the injectors, what else could be causing the lack of performance on a car that otherwise has had the full benefit of "new owner's love?
TIA for hearing my complaint and for responding!!!
The current situation concerns me. While generally, the car runs well with no obvious misses at idle like it had when the wires etc were toasted, there is a "hesitation' when you get down on it that will disappear after a certain point in the rpms and then it feels like you have tapped into the motherload of what the car can do. (I also won't address the case of the Tach that suddenly and un-relatedly registers as if the engine is not running - ie 100 -300 rpm's indicated. (I'm still looking into finding one I can swap out for a few moments to see if it is gauge related, or something else). I recently noted there is a "ping" sound which I heard for the first time since I graced my beast with Fister 2s that is clear and distinct when running through a tunnel or when a wall is conveniently along side. We have sensitively and steadily eliminated areas of concern, as my guy does not want to go on an unrestrained fishing expedition given the fact that this purchase is more of a money pit than it could ever be a cash cow (no matter how high values may climb) and everybody knows there is no money in teaching (my chosen field,) no matter how important education is to our ultimate goal of person comfort. But what we seem to have come to is that the consistent code for the number three cylinder may be related to a bad injector.
I thought a prudent approach might be to say, "Oh hell! For $25@, let's just send them all out to be re-conditioned to a place another Rl'r said did good work and I'll only have to pay for disassembly once plus the cost of the re-installation after the extraction. He argued that if we do it "his" way, (switch the injectors, wait a bit and then re-scan the car,) it could point more directly to the problem IF the injector is not what is wrong. Further, my method might leave me with newly spec'd injectors and still the cause of the codes might not be disclosed in which case I will have upgraded my fuel delivery but will not have made the problem go away.
Of course his method will involve opening the can of worms yet again once we see if the codes throw again and move from #2 to #3, but I do trust this man with more than my car. At this point, this week, he is going to switch #2 with #3 to see if the problem follows the move after I have driven for a bit and the codes reset.
Does this approach seem right to you? If not the injectors, what else could be causing the lack of performance on a car that otherwise has had the full benefit of "new owner's love?
TIA for hearing my complaint and for responding!!!
Last edited by pcarhombre; Sep 20, 2010 at 05:59 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,103
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
Certainly sounds as though it's fuel delivery-related. This may seem too simplistic but, after reading your diatribe, I am compelled to ask if you've changed the fuel filter. If so, there's still a possibility, after 114k mi., that you may have trash in your fuel tank which is clogging the fuel pick-up.
