tip trauma, seized bolt problem
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
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tip trauma, seized bolt problem
Hi, having trouble undoing a couple of bolts on the side of my tip transmission. There are two cheese-head bolts holding the ATF level sight gauge on and they're solid. I've tried penetrating release oil but am wary of applying heat as the sight guage is plastic...
these are the two culprits:
the longitudinal tip driveshaft gets right in the way of a socket driven bit, and the suspension is right in the way also.
any tips? (pardon the pun)
(reason the sight gauge needs to come off is that the inside of the guage is filthy to the point of not being able to see the ATF level)
Do you think filing flats on the head of the bolt might work?
thanks all
these are the two culprits:
the longitudinal tip driveshaft gets right in the way of a socket driven bit, and the suspension is right in the way also.
any tips? (pardon the pun)
(reason the sight gauge needs to come off is that the inside of the guage is filthy to the point of not being able to see the ATF level)
Do you think filing flats on the head of the bolt might work?
thanks all
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 785
From: Canada & the Alps
You want zero play and you want to keep things square, therefore...
Use a flat bladed tip where the blade portion is parallel (not those cheap screwdrivers that have bevelled tips...those just cam-out). Those are usually found on driver "bits", those 1" long bits with a 1/4" hex shank. You also want a blade that is the full width of the cheese head screw.
If you can get a stubby handle in there, great, if not, use a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" socket to drive the bit.
Use a flat bladed tip where the blade portion is parallel (not those cheap screwdrivers that have bevelled tips...those just cam-out). Those are usually found on driver "bits", those 1" long bits with a 1/4" hex shank. You also want a blade that is the full width of the cheese head screw.
If you can get a stubby handle in there, great, if not, use a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" socket to drive the bit.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
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ultimately I might need to drop the tip driveshaft from the car to get enough room for an impact driver or drill, but there's not enough room at the mo (unless I go in a few degrees off square). I have since found a better bit which is 1/2" wide which is the width of the bolt head. Was tipping ;-) it down last night so I didn't get out to the car. 8mm hex drive so this can be driven by my 1/4" ratchet.
Another idea was to whack the bolt heads hard with a hammer before I start (to break the corrosion if poss). The plasticness of the part fixed by the bolts should allow the force to be tranmitted straight to the threads (theory!!)
last ditch plan would be to dremel the heads off the bolt and then take the shank out somehow (molegrips = visegrips) but if the shanks don't come out there is no back up plan here as a drill will defo not fit
thanks
Drew
Another idea was to whack the bolt heads hard with a hammer before I start (to break the corrosion if poss). The plasticness of the part fixed by the bolts should allow the force to be tranmitted straight to the threads (theory!!)
last ditch plan would be to dremel the heads off the bolt and then take the shank out somehow (molegrips = visegrips) but if the shanks don't come out there is no back up plan here as a drill will defo not fit
thanks
Drew
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 98
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From: Greer, SC
Sure, give them a tap. Penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil? Also some grinding compound on the screwdriver bit might minimize slipping. Those impact drivers work well if you can get it in there. Ken
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
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yee ha, we're away. once again having the right tools for the job saved the day. I bought a new bit which was the right size for the bolt head (1/2" wide instead of my largest previously was about 1/4" wide) and applied loads of inwards force to stop it slipping out and both came first time.
thanks muchly
thanks muchly
