Left turn signal - help please
08-07-2010, 08:23 AM
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Left turn signal - help please
Hi,
My 1994 993 C2 tip carbriolet left turn signal flash very fast. Only front left bulb is flashing. Front left side signal and rear left signal stays dark. Check both bulbs and they are ok. Check fuse 30 and it's gone. Replace fuse 30 with same rating 7.5A and try out left turn signal, it flash once and the flasher flash very fast. The fuse 30 is gone again. Check hazard connection - ok. Switch hazard and the flasher flash normal. Swap indicator with a good one, results are the same as above.
Does anybody has a wiring diagram?
What else do I need to check.
Appreciate all your pointer out there.
Best Regards.
My 1994 993 C2 tip carbriolet left turn signal flash very fast. Only front left bulb is flashing. Front left side signal and rear left signal stays dark. Check both bulbs and they are ok. Check fuse 30 and it's gone. Replace fuse 30 with same rating 7.5A and try out left turn signal, it flash once and the flasher flash very fast. The fuse 30 is gone again. Check hazard connection - ok. Switch hazard and the flasher flash normal. Swap indicator with a good one, results are the same as above.
Does anybody has a wiring diagram?
What else do I need to check.
Appreciate all your pointer out there.
Best Regards.
08-07-2010, 01:23 PM
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Not sure how much help this will be but here goes.
looking at diagram... very simple circuit from fuses to signals.
Fuse 31 Feeds left Front Signal bulb only through the bulb to ground.
Fuse 30 Feeds left side turn signal bulb and left rear signal bulb only. Again a VERY simple circuit from the fuse through the two bulbs in parallel to ground.
Fuse 32 Feeds right Front Signal bulb only through the bulb to ground.
Fuse 33 Feeds right side turn signal bulb and right rear signal bulb only. Again a VERY simple circuit from the fuse through the two bulbs in parallel to ground.
again looking at the diagram... just north of the fuses 30/31 the circuit splits one hot supply lead coming from the turn signal switch and the other from the hazard flasher switch. Either 12V supply will light up all signal bulbs on that side of the car. It seems logical that if the turn signal switch is in center/off position and all is working with the hazard flashers for both sides that the problem is not related to the flasher circuit. If the hazard flashers are off and you turn on your left turn signal using the signal lever this blows fuse 30 (if I understand you right). I did not look further north in the circuit to see where the turn signal and flasher switches get their 12V supply from and this part is only an assumption but I am guessing that the hazard flasher circuit gets it's 12V through another fuse in the fusebox and the turn signal switch assembly gets it's 12 volts from a separate fused supply. I assume this because it would be a very dangerous fire hazard to not have both of those 12V supplies fused right off the main power bus in the car. If any of these wires north of the fuses 30/31/32/33 were to develop a short to ground the car could start on fire. Something needs to provide protection north of the signal/hazard flasher switches. This is important because if that is true (god I hope it is for fire safety reasons) it is likely that the two turn signals L/R tie together and are both protected north of the switch assembly by the same fuse. I am guessing that this fuse does not pop because it is a higher value than 7.5 amp and the 7.5 pops first relieving the short. Try this. replace fuse 30 with a good one and instead of turning the left signal on for a test turn on the right signal instead. If you do that and pop fuses 32 or 33 it seems as if the problem is going to be north of the turn signal switch assembly. If the right signal bulbs all flash and work properly using the turn signal lever it seems likely that the problem is internal to the turn signal switch assembly. I have pictures around here somewhere of the inside of the turn signal switch assembly. it's easier to replace it than to fix it if that's the problem.
Nick
Not sure how much help this will be but here goes.
looking at diagram... very simple circuit from fuses to signals.
Fuse 31 Feeds left Front Signal bulb only through the bulb to ground.
Fuse 30 Feeds left side turn signal bulb and left rear signal bulb only. Again a VERY simple circuit from the fuse through the two bulbs in parallel to ground.
Fuse 32 Feeds right Front Signal bulb only through the bulb to ground.
Fuse 33 Feeds right side turn signal bulb and right rear signal bulb only. Again a VERY simple circuit from the fuse through the two bulbs in parallel to ground.
again looking at the diagram... just north of the fuses 30/31 the circuit splits one hot supply lead coming from the turn signal switch and the other from the hazard flasher switch. Either 12V supply will light up all signal bulbs on that side of the car. It seems logical that if the turn signal switch is in center/off position and all is working with the hazard flashers for both sides that the problem is not related to the flasher circuit. If the hazard flashers are off and you turn on your left turn signal using the signal lever this blows fuse 30 (if I understand you right). I did not look further north in the circuit to see where the turn signal and flasher switches get their 12V supply from and this part is only an assumption but I am guessing that the hazard flasher circuit gets it's 12V through another fuse in the fusebox and the turn signal switch assembly gets it's 12 volts from a separate fused supply. I assume this because it would be a very dangerous fire hazard to not have both of those 12V supplies fused right off the main power bus in the car. If any of these wires north of the fuses 30/31/32/33 were to develop a short to ground the car could start on fire. Something needs to provide protection north of the signal/hazard flasher switches. This is important because if that is true (god I hope it is for fire safety reasons) it is likely that the two turn signals L/R tie together and are both protected north of the switch assembly by the same fuse. I am guessing that this fuse does not pop because it is a higher value than 7.5 amp and the 7.5 pops first relieving the short. Try this. replace fuse 30 with a good one and instead of turning the left signal on for a test turn on the right signal instead. If you do that and pop fuses 32 or 33 it seems as if the problem is going to be north of the turn signal switch assembly. If the right signal bulbs all flash and work properly using the turn signal lever it seems likely that the problem is internal to the turn signal switch assembly. I have pictures around here somewhere of the inside of the turn signal switch assembly. it's easier to replace it than to fix it if that's the problem.
Nick
Last edited by Warpig; 08-07-2010 at 02:28 PM.
08-08-2010, 01:20 AM
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"If the hazard flashers are off and you turn on your left turn signal using the signal lever this blows fuse 30 (if I understand you right)."
Yes, exactly.
"I did not look further north in the circuit to see where the turn signal and flasher switches get their 12V supply from and this part is only an assumption but I am guessing that the hazard flasher circuit gets it's 12V through another fuse in the fusebox and the turn signal switch assembly gets it's 12 volts from a separate fused supply. I assume this because it would be a very dangerous fire hazard to not have both of those 12V supplies fused right off the main power bus in the car. If any of these wires north of the fuses 30/31/32/33 were to develop a short to ground the car could start on fire. Something needs to provide protection north of the signal/hazard flasher switches. This is important because if that is true (god I hope it is for fire safety reasons) it is likely that the two turn signals L/R tie together and are both protected north of the switch assembly by the same fuse. I am guessing that this fuse does not pop because it is a higher value than 7.5 amp and the 7.5 pops first relieving the short."
WOW... scare me off. How/where do I check?
"Try this. replace fuse 30 with a good one and instead of turning the left signal on for a test turn on the right signal instead. If you do that and pop fuses 32 or 33 it seems as if the problem is going to be north of the turn signal switch assembly. If the right signal bulbs all flash and work properly using the turn signal lever it seems likely that the problem is internal to the turn signal switch assembly."
Replace fuse 30. Turn on right signal, all right signal bulbs flash and work properly using the turn signal lever. Fuse 32 and 33 doesn't pop.
"I have pictures around here somewhere of the inside of the turn signal switch assembly. it's easier to replace it than to fix it if that's the problem."
Well, would like to fix it instead.
Thank you.
Yes, exactly.
"I did not look further north in the circuit to see where the turn signal and flasher switches get their 12V supply from and this part is only an assumption but I am guessing that the hazard flasher circuit gets it's 12V through another fuse in the fusebox and the turn signal switch assembly gets it's 12 volts from a separate fused supply. I assume this because it would be a very dangerous fire hazard to not have both of those 12V supplies fused right off the main power bus in the car. If any of these wires north of the fuses 30/31/32/33 were to develop a short to ground the car could start on fire. Something needs to provide protection north of the signal/hazard flasher switches. This is important because if that is true (god I hope it is for fire safety reasons) it is likely that the two turn signals L/R tie together and are both protected north of the switch assembly by the same fuse. I am guessing that this fuse does not pop because it is a higher value than 7.5 amp and the 7.5 pops first relieving the short."
WOW... scare me off. How/where do I check?
"Try this. replace fuse 30 with a good one and instead of turning the left signal on for a test turn on the right signal instead. If you do that and pop fuses 32 or 33 it seems as if the problem is going to be north of the turn signal switch assembly. If the right signal bulbs all flash and work properly using the turn signal lever it seems likely that the problem is internal to the turn signal switch assembly."
Replace fuse 30. Turn on right signal, all right signal bulbs flash and work properly using the turn signal lever. Fuse 32 and 33 doesn't pop.
"I have pictures around here somewhere of the inside of the turn signal switch assembly. it's easier to replace it than to fix it if that's the problem."
Well, would like to fix it instead.
Thank you.
08-08-2010, 08:12 PM
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I don't know off the top of my head what your cut red wire is. Was there a wire plugged into the back of the airbag assembly with a funny looking plug on it? on my '95 the funny plug plugged into the airbag. I cannot remember if it was the green (bottom wire in your pic) or red wire (top wire in your pic). As for the signal switch assembly mine had 7 rivets then needed to be drilled to get into it. After I popped it apart a spring popped out of it and got lost in my living room carpet and I had to had to search for it on my knees with a flashlight. Managed to get it back together and re-secured it with small nuts/bolts.
here are my pics.
The pristine assembly before me breaking it open (front view).
The pristine assembly before me breaking it open (back view).
The back of the switch signal arm after it popped out. (Bad focus but you get the idea)
Holding the spring loaded leaf switch contacts down in place attempting to put the signal arm back in.
Holding the spring loaded leaf switch contacts down in place attempting to put the signal arm back in.
Trying to put the top spring loaded bits back in without re-springing the bottom stuff. Took a few tries but I got it back in.
Buttoned up with small nuts and bolts from the local hardware store.
NOTE: the nuts will get in the way of the plastic molding of the wire plugs that plug back into the switch assembly. The molding can easily be notched out to fit with a pair of small clippers. This will allow the plugs to be fully re-seated on the assembly.
I'm guessing you spring a spring or one of your leaf switches inside the assembly may be touching something it shouldn't. not sure though. It's just a guess.
BTW if you keep your eyes open you can find a used switch assembly on Ebay or the like. After doing the surgery I replaced mine anyway. i just wanted to see how it worked. I paid US$40 shipped but prices vary.
Not sure about the primary fuse for the turn signals circuit. in my 95 I looked yesterday at the fuse box cover inlay and the fuse it might be did not jump out at me other than the 4 we mentioned already. I was not trying to scare you... The fuse is blowing for a reason and if the circuit is fused twice (and with all that hot wiring inside the car i sure hope it is) it is logical that when a circuit is loaded down and one fuse is say 20 amps and the other is 7.5 that its likely that the 7.5 will blow first. I will look for more diagrams to see if I can find another fuse in the circuit but not sure i have the diagrams to look at.
Have Fun,
Nick
here are my pics.
The pristine assembly before me breaking it open (front view).
The pristine assembly before me breaking it open (back view).
The back of the switch signal arm after it popped out. (Bad focus but you get the idea)
Holding the spring loaded leaf switch contacts down in place attempting to put the signal arm back in.
Holding the spring loaded leaf switch contacts down in place attempting to put the signal arm back in.
Trying to put the top spring loaded bits back in without re-springing the bottom stuff. Took a few tries but I got it back in.
Buttoned up with small nuts and bolts from the local hardware store.
NOTE: the nuts will get in the way of the plastic molding of the wire plugs that plug back into the switch assembly. The molding can easily be notched out to fit with a pair of small clippers. This will allow the plugs to be fully re-seated on the assembly.
I'm guessing you spring a spring or one of your leaf switches inside the assembly may be touching something it shouldn't. not sure though. It's just a guess.
BTW if you keep your eyes open you can find a used switch assembly on Ebay or the like. After doing the surgery I replaced mine anyway. i just wanted to see how it worked. I paid US$40 shipped but prices vary.
Not sure about the primary fuse for the turn signals circuit. in my 95 I looked yesterday at the fuse box cover inlay and the fuse it might be did not jump out at me other than the 4 we mentioned already. I was not trying to scare you... The fuse is blowing for a reason and if the circuit is fused twice (and with all that hot wiring inside the car i sure hope it is) it is logical that when a circuit is loaded down and one fuse is say 20 amps and the other is 7.5 that its likely that the 7.5 will blow first. I will look for more diagrams to see if I can find another fuse in the circuit but not sure i have the diagrams to look at.
Have Fun,
Nick
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08-15-2010, 02:19 AM
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Pull out all fuse in boot and engine compartment, except fuse 30, 31, 32 and 33.
Ignition on, turn right signal on, all fuse ok.
Turn left signal on, fuse #30 gone.
Disconnect connection to column switch. Switch on hazard, fuse #30 gone.
Disconnect left rear signal bulb and left front side signal bulb. Switch on hazard, Fuse #30 gone.
Pull out all relay in boot and engine compartment, switch on hazard, fuse #30 gone.
Next is to check continuity at bulb holder.
Ignition on, turn right signal on, all fuse ok.
Turn left signal on, fuse #30 gone.
Disconnect connection to column switch. Switch on hazard, fuse #30 gone.
Disconnect left rear signal bulb and left front side signal bulb. Switch on hazard, Fuse #30 gone.
Pull out all relay in boot and engine compartment, switch on hazard, fuse #30 gone.
Next is to check continuity at bulb holder.
