The KW Variant 3 Experience and a Thank You to Friends at FD Motorsports
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
The KW Variant 3 Experience and a Thank You to Friends at FD Motorsports
Seems as though this post is timely as folks are debating the KW vs Bilstein quesyion.
I cannot compare my KWs to PSS10s, but I will say they are way better than my old HD/M030 setup. I've had my KWs for about a month now and so far I'm very pleased. I've been very busy and haven't had the time to completely dial them in yet, but they are already a huge improvement over my old set-up which had a tendency to deflect instead of absorb (IMHO the result of too much compression dampening).
Random impressions:
- Excellent craftmanship/materials
- Thoughtfully designed. For example, the brake line bracket is stout (welded, not tacked on) and is designed to accept the brake line without opening the brake line.
- Double adjustable (compression and rebound dampening) and the adjustments make a meaningfully difference. To me this extra adjustablity is an important difference between the KWs and the PSSxx.
- Notably lighter than my old Bilstein setup.
- Gotta love the colors - especially if you're a Lakers fan like I am
I sourced my KWs from Darin and Mark at FD Motorsports. As always, these guys are great to work with, are reasonably priced (and then some) and were even nice enough to work with me on the install.
Cheers,
Joe
I cannot compare my KWs to PSS10s, but I will say they are way better than my old HD/M030 setup. I've had my KWs for about a month now and so far I'm very pleased. I've been very busy and haven't had the time to completely dial them in yet, but they are already a huge improvement over my old set-up which had a tendency to deflect instead of absorb (IMHO the result of too much compression dampening).
Random impressions:
- Excellent craftmanship/materials
- Thoughtfully designed. For example, the brake line bracket is stout (welded, not tacked on) and is designed to accept the brake line without opening the brake line.
- Double adjustable (compression and rebound dampening) and the adjustments make a meaningfully difference. To me this extra adjustablity is an important difference between the KWs and the PSSxx.
- Notably lighter than my old Bilstein setup.
- Gotta love the colors - especially if you're a Lakers fan like I am
I sourced my KWs from Darin and Mark at FD Motorsports. As always, these guys are great to work with, are reasonably priced (and then some) and were even nice enough to work with me on the install.
Cheers,
Joe
#2
Rennlist Member
Ready for some questions?
1. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the front struts?
2. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the rear struts, (are you able to dig into the bowels of the engine compartment and still able to accurately adjust clicks on the top of the struts?).
3. do both bump and rebound adjustments have readily discernible "clicks"
4. did you have any issues with rear drop link / rear anti roll bar fitment?
5. what rear drop links did you use?
6. did you use your existing stock top hats fro the fronts? any fitment issues with these?
TIA for helping me make my decision.
Craig
#3
Banned
Thread Starter
Sure. Here are your answers:
1. Pretty easy, although you do need to raise the car. One adjustment at top and the other on the bottom.
2. Same are front. You can get to the top of the strut w/o taking the blower out. On the passenger side, just pop the airbox cover off (the airbox itself can remain).
3. Yes - or in the case of the rears - sweeps.
4. The factory drop links should fit easily. I had the droplinks from my old Bilsteins and needed to shorten the top stud on the rears a little. Not a big deal.
5. See #4.
6. The KWs come with their own top hats.
Cheers,
Joe
1. Pretty easy, although you do need to raise the car. One adjustment at top and the other on the bottom.
2. Same are front. You can get to the top of the strut w/o taking the blower out. On the passenger side, just pop the airbox cover off (the airbox itself can remain).
3. Yes - or in the case of the rears - sweeps.
4. The factory drop links should fit easily. I had the droplinks from my old Bilsteins and needed to shorten the top stud on the rears a little. Not a big deal.
5. See #4.
6. The KWs come with their own top hats.
Cheers,
Joe
Thanks Joe
Ready for some questions?
1. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the front struts?
2. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the rear struts, (are you able to dig into the bowels of the engine compartment and still able to accurately adjust clicks on the top of the struts?).
3. do both bump and rebound adjustments have readily discernible "clicks"
4. did you have any issues with rear drop link / rear anti roll bar fitment?
5. what rear drop links did you use?
6. did you use your existing stock top hats fro the fronts? any fitment issues with these?
TIA for helping me make my decision.
Craig
Ready for some questions?
1. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the front struts?
2. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the rear struts, (are you able to dig into the bowels of the engine compartment and still able to accurately adjust clicks on the top of the struts?).
3. do both bump and rebound adjustments have readily discernible "clicks"
4. did you have any issues with rear drop link / rear anti roll bar fitment?
5. what rear drop links did you use?
6. did you use your existing stock top hats fro the fronts? any fitment issues with these?
TIA for helping me make my decision.
Craig
#4
Thanks Joe
Ready for some questions?
1. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the front struts?
2. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the rear struts, (are you able to dig into the bowels of the engine compartment and still able to accurately adjust clicks on the top of the struts?).
3. do both bump and rebound adjustments have readily discernible "clicks"
4. did you have any issues with rear drop link / rear anti roll bar fitment?
5. what rear drop links did you use?
6. did you use your existing stock top hats fro the fronts? any fitment issues with these?
TIA for helping me make my decision.
Craig
Ready for some questions?
1. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the front struts?
2. how easy is bump and rebound adjustment on the rear struts, (are you able to dig into the bowels of the engine compartment and still able to accurately adjust clicks on the top of the struts?).
3. do both bump and rebound adjustments have readily discernible "clicks"
4. did you have any issues with rear drop link / rear anti roll bar fitment?
5. what rear drop links did you use?
6. did you use your existing stock top hats fro the fronts? any fitment issues with these?
TIA for helping me make my decision.
Craig
"adjustability - the v3s are two way adjustable, bump and rebound - however, the KW adjustment system is diabolical, its a complete pig to do the bump adjustment unless you jack the car up. And even then its not easy. I do adjust for road vs track but its not something you can do on the spur of the moment."
You are not going to find the rebound adjust easy on the rear unless youve had formal VET training as you know its just not that great for accessibility back there in the engine compartment, and thats before you start fumbling around at the bottom of the shock. I've faffed about with awkward adjustable suspension in the past, it became such a chore that I didnt bother after a while, then what's the point of it.
The KW web site http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/kw_variant_3.php gives you a look at what your in for so take a look there if adjustment is important to you.
Anyhow you pays your money and takes your choice. All the best.
#5
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a set of these. What is your typical driving? Mostly street and some track days. I'm looking for something better the the usual suspects. I think JRZ and Moton are much more full-on track suspension. Any input on where the KW clubsports fit it.
#6
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a set of these. What is your typical driving? Mostly street and some track days. I'm looking for something better the the usual suspects. I think JRZ and Moton are much more full-on track suspension. Any input on where the KW clubsports fit it.
the best and most expensive is Moton, the value option is JIC, either install w/o issue and use sways w/o issue
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#8
yes, so?
I guess if you like to fiddle the more ***** the better, but sit down and carefully think about it, Do you really have the knowledge to do it perfectly? and how much fiddling will you really do?
I set the JICS and sways where they have felt good before and don't change them untill I go back to street trim. Sometimes I'll experiment w/ different settings at different events but I couldn't honestly tell you whether I've made better or worse most of the time.
The more ***** the more chance of having it wrong
I guess if you like to fiddle the more ***** the better, but sit down and carefully think about it, Do you really have the knowledge to do it perfectly? and how much fiddling will you really do?
I set the JICS and sways where they have felt good before and don't change them untill I go back to street trim. Sometimes I'll experiment w/ different settings at different events but I couldn't honestly tell you whether I've made better or worse most of the time.
The more ***** the more chance of having it wrong
#9
Rennlist Member
i change settings at least 6 X per month. i do 2 - 3 cycles of street to "track settings" and back to street soft.
I rarely change settings once at a big track, but often make adjustments @ an AX event, typically to stiffen the front or rear depending upon the track surface.
Having to also keep track of rebound settings would significantly add to the
complexity.
When I told my suspension guy i was thinking about KW's he told me they wer no better than the "junk" i currently had, P10's that he sold me............., buy the new JRZ clubsports or don't waste your money was his opinion.
ain't opinions grand?
AX dynamic changes seem more obvious to me.
Cheers
Craig
#10
Banned
Thread Starter
One of the guys on our UK forum had these installed on the 993 his comments on adjustablity..............
"adjustability - the v3s are two way adjustable, bump and rebound - however, the KW adjustment system is diabolical, its a complete pig to do the bump adjustment unless you jack the car up. And even then its not easy. I do adjust for road vs track but its not something you can do on the spur of the moment."
You are not going to find the rebound adjust easy on the rear unless youve had formal VET training as you know its just not that great for accessibility back there in the engine compartment, and thats before you start fumbling around at the bottom of the shock. I've faffed about with awkward adjustable suspension in the past, it became such a chore that I didnt bother after a while, then what's the point of it.
The KW web site http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/kw_variant_3.php gives you a look at what your in for so take a look there if adjustment is important to you.
Anyhow you pays your money and takes your choice. All the best.
"adjustability - the v3s are two way adjustable, bump and rebound - however, the KW adjustment system is diabolical, its a complete pig to do the bump adjustment unless you jack the car up. And even then its not easy. I do adjust for road vs track but its not something you can do on the spur of the moment."
You are not going to find the rebound adjust easy on the rear unless youve had formal VET training as you know its just not that great for accessibility back there in the engine compartment, and thats before you start fumbling around at the bottom of the shock. I've faffed about with awkward adjustable suspension in the past, it became such a chore that I didnt bother after a while, then what's the point of it.
The KW web site http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/kw_variant_3.php gives you a look at what your in for so take a look there if adjustment is important to you.
Anyhow you pays your money and takes your choice. All the best.
For me the point of adjustable suspension on a street car is to dial it in the way I want it. Once dialed in, I don't need to touch it very much. Motons are a fine product, but are big $$$ and overkill for street cars.
Anyway, suspension is a subjective thing. However, I do want to be clear that the KWs are not difficult to fit or adjust for anyone with even minimal mechanical aptitude.
#11
I think that's what people fail to see when they feel that having an adjustable suspension means too much choice with too much fiddling around.
#12
KW V3's do not work with RS sway bars. You will require a custom drop link, which FD motorsports are working on right now. If you want to run at or near RS ride height you should get the specific RS strut from KW (which is available). I only learned about this after installing my V3's.
With regards to one of the comments above, I hardly think you can call KW's products "junk".
With regards to one of the comments above, I hardly think you can call KW's products "junk".
#13
Rennlist Member
Congrats on your setup. It sounds good for daily use. My PSS10's work good for this application as well. Darin and Mark at FD are a couple of great guys. That's who sold me my PS10's as well. Happy driving!
Oh, about changing settings. I spend about 4 minutes about once a month changing the settings. Simple is good.
Oh, about changing settings. I spend about 4 minutes about once a month changing the settings. Simple is good.
#14
yes, so?
I guess if you like to fiddle the more ***** the better, but sit down and carefully think about it, Do you really have the knowledge to do it perfectly? and how much fiddling will you really do?
I set the JICS and sways where they have felt good before and don't change them untill I go back to street trim. Sometimes I'll experiment w/ different settings at different events but I couldn't honestly tell you whether I've made better or worse most of the time.
The more ***** the more chance of having it wrong
I guess if you like to fiddle the more ***** the better, but sit down and carefully think about it, Do you really have the knowledge to do it perfectly? and how much fiddling will you really do?
I set the JICS and sways where they have felt good before and don't change them untill I go back to street trim. Sometimes I'll experiment w/ different settings at different events but I couldn't honestly tell you whether I've made better or worse most of the time.
The more ***** the more chance of having it wrong
I do have JIC's now but the springs are too firm - 10/14k. i'm sure if I lighten up the springs I would be more happy with them.
#15
Valid point
i change settings at least 6 X per month. i do 2 - 3 cycles of street to "track settings" and back to street soft.
I rarely change settings once at a big track, but often make adjustments @ an AX event, typically to stiffen the front or rear depending upon the track surface.
Having to also keep track of rebound settings would significantly add to the
complexity.
When I told my suspension guy i was thinking about KW's he told me they wer no better than the "junk" i currently had, P10's that he sold me............., buy the new JRZ clubsports or don't waste your money was his opinion.
ain't opinions grand?
Very true for big track stuff, i often feel the same.
AX dynamic changes seem more obvious to me.
Cheers
Craig
i change settings at least 6 X per month. i do 2 - 3 cycles of street to "track settings" and back to street soft.
I rarely change settings once at a big track, but often make adjustments @ an AX event, typically to stiffen the front or rear depending upon the track surface.
Having to also keep track of rebound settings would significantly add to the
complexity.
When I told my suspension guy i was thinking about KW's he told me they wer no better than the "junk" i currently had, P10's that he sold me............., buy the new JRZ clubsports or don't waste your money was his opinion.
ain't opinions grand?
Very true for big track stuff, i often feel the same.
AX dynamic changes seem more obvious to me.
Cheers
Craig