993/907

More woe, immobilzer still kaput.
My 95 has been at the dealer for 3 weeks, chasing immobilizer problems.
Replaced the brain, little improvement.
Replaced the ignition keyway, intermittent improvement.
Now time to replace some sort of control module that reads the ignition keyway, the part is about $600.
Told them I would take the car and just not lock it anymore.
But the alarm system is now so unreliable it can't be driven without the risk of being stranded.
I asked if they could wire around and disable the immobilizer, so he is checking.
I had to ask, even though Steve Weiner describes it as a lot of work.
(Steve, I may have them connect with you for guidance, if you are willing).
Suggestions, anyone?

Gordo

356Racing

"Now time to replace some sort of control module that reads the ignition keyway, the part is about $600."

There is a microswitch that tells the computer a key is in the ignition, I would think this should be pretty easy to bypass for a check. I'll post a picture of the ignition switch assembly tonight if nobody else has one handy. When you say they replaced the brain are you referring to the alarm control module?

993/907

Pix or diagram would help me to understand the system, thanks.
Yes, I believe it was the alarm module that was replaced a few months ago...dealer cost was about $1000.
The ignition switch was replaced this week. Not sure yet what the $600 part does.....I will find out more today.
As I explained in previous posts, the dealer does not have a factory trained mechanic.....they are trying hard, but without a thorough grip on how these systems work it is a struggle.
Gordo

993/907

6 weeks ago the dealer replaced the ECU in order to restore the immobilizer function. Car was indeed immobilized.
This week they replaced the starter switch, which is located behind the steering lock (I call the the steering lock the ignition switch).
No improvement, so they were preparing to replace the steering lock, which would mean removing the entire lower portion of the dash.
They could not guess how much time (number of days) THAT would take.
Asked them to button up the car.
Hope to pick it up this afternoon, and live with a hinky immobilzer.
Gordo

tonypai

It's a 95? I think if you send the ECU to Steve W, he can reprogram it to bypass the immobilizer and make a few extra HP while you're at it.

993/907

Thanks Tonypai. That was my hope also.
I checked with Steve some time ago, he says the later 95's (mine) cannot be flashed to eliminate the immobilizer, otherwise I would do it in a heartbeat.
96 and on can be flashed.
Early 95 basket handle cars have no immobilizer, the lucky's.
Gordo

993/907

Curve in the road.
Dealer talked me into replacing the steering lock (ignition keyway).
He suspects the mechanical pins within are worn and the system is not aware the key is removed (might be correct; the key chime continues to quietly cry for some time after I remove the key).
His thought is transient voltage may have caused the ECU to flame out, and may happen again if I don't replace the steering lock.
The car has only 72k miles, mostly very short trips of just several miles at a time; point being I may have simply worn out the steering lock.

Hopefully this will help others with similar immobilizer symptoms in our aging fleet.

Gordo

356Racing

The white 2 pin switch is for the key insert. It is open until the key is turned to the first position at which time the switch closes. The switch remains closed until the key is removed. Easy to check and bypass if needed. Changing out the entire assembly with the column lock is a difficult task and would seem unnecessary at this time.

993/907

What I see in this pic is the entire steering lock; the starter switch is the black element with all the prongs, right?

Not sure I follow you; if the keyway is indeed worn out, when I remove the key the car does not sense the key is removed, leaving the switch "closed", right? How would bypassing this white switch help......maybe as a check to verify this is the problem?

If that is the case, I will have the dealer try it Friday.

Amazing what you guys know about these cars......thanks for the help.

356Racing

The black part is the ignition switch that they probably changed out already, it comes right off the back with a machine screw. The white switch is the key switch. You can test it after you removed the key, if it is still closed than either the switch or the mechanical part inside lock assembly is hanging up. The easiest thing to do would be to remove the conector and jump the 2 wires right after you put the key in the first position(not just inserted but turned 1 position), remove the jumper once the key is removed to simulate that switch working correctly. Hope that helps!

ibdavid

I hate 993 immobilizers!! The ONE thing I really don't like about owning a "newer" 911. PIA on so many levels.

993/907

I totally agree.
Ibdavid, if you have 96 or newer, Steve Weiner (and others) can remove the immobilzer function by zapping your ECU.
Early 95's didn't have the %#@** things. Late 95's can't be zapped.

I sent the great info from 356racing on to my dealer. Don't know yet if has helped.

Gordo

ibdavid

Yeah, I've talked to Steve and will do that in the future. Unfortunately like everything else Porsche, it costs.

Rinty

Gordo:

Your posts on Maestro's thread reminded me of this old one.

Did your dealer ever diagnose what was wrong with your immobilizer system?

Does anyone know how much Steve Weiner charges to de-immobilize a '96-'98 car? This could be nicely co-ordinated with a trip into the High Desert.

budge96

Not sure if this helps but I've heard often that a significant numbers of keys on a key ring will significantly
increase ignition switch failure in our cars..
If the mechanical keyway switch is failing to recognize the inserting or removal of the key you may need
that part at a minumum replaced.
with a '95 particularly the doors ,hood ,hood latches etc are the primary releases for the alarm if any
deficiency is detected it could easily prevent it from arming or disarming system.