I have read up on a few of the DIY sites on replacing sunroof cables and I was curious if anyone has recently attempted it and can comment on the difficulty? This will be the second set of cables that have broken in 4 years and I can stomach the thought of paying the dealer to complete this job. (FYI- the dealer quoted me $845 P&L !!!)

Additionally, I need to replace my A/C condensor resistor to make the A/C run properly. Has anyone completed this project recently as well and can share some thoughts on the level of difficulty?

Thanks in advance,

Jon

 

Haven't had to replace the sunroof cables.
Thanks for editing the post. Looks like you have some responses.

 

Um...You didn't say what the first DIY task was...

 

Sorry, deleted sunroof from the title by accident. I am looking into replacing the sunroof cables.

 

Sunroof cables can be a good DIY if you are detail oriented, and careful. This was the first repair I did on my car. Took my time and used the internet for as much info as I could find before I started. Put tape around the roof paint so you don't scratch any thing. I give it 4 or of 10 for dificulty. 10 is changing an engine, 1 is adding washer fluid.
start here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...oof_repair.htm

But do a search...

 

It's very doable as it's just time consuming but not technical difficult. The main difficulty is getting at the little bolts and screws to disconnect the cables from the steel panel. Position the panel 3/4 open so you can access the front rails and the rear connection to the panel. It took the whole day the first time.

 

I did mine two weeks ago. My passenger side cable pulled out of the little sled that rides in the roof track and is pushed/pulled by the cable. Not too bad of a DIY but DanQ is right you need to pay attention to detail. Go to the DIY and read it that Dan posted a link to above... it's good info. There was also another thread here on RL that was VERY helpful. Look back about two weeks ago you should find it.

Open Roof half way if you can. If not, unzip the headliner in the back remove padding around gear assembly, remove the gear mech. (not motor) by removing two screws and pulling it down. Now may be able to push the roof panel around to open it half way as the motor gear and gear mech is what prevents the cables/panel from moving. I forgot to mention that if the roof is fully closed and locked that the cable/sled assembly on each side may be pushed toward the front of the car past the vertical axis. This "Locks" the roof. If it is locked (the sleds pushed fully forward) you will have to pop the liner down in front push it back to expose the metal bar above the leaf springs (one on each side) and pop the sleds back toward the back of the car by grabbing and pushing the metal bar toward the back of the car. Then you will be capable of moving the roof around. Remove the headliner from the sunroof by carefully prying down the front lip of the liner. The clips will pop out of the roof panel. Slide the liner back into the roof. Close the roof enough to access the 4x 8mm and 4x 7mm bolts holding the panel to the cable and track assembly. remove roof panel. Remove Front wind deflector assembly. Remove screws for both roof tracks. Carefully slide each roof track out of the front of the opening. NOTE there are plastic guide pins in the back of the tracks that slide into guide holes inside the roof. make sure both guide pins are retreived from the roof. I had one that got stuck in the guide hole inside the roof. Since I'm not 7 years old or have a 7 year old handy I could not reach into the roof and grab it out with my hand. A half hour fishing expedition resulted. Finally got it out with a grabber and a lot of cussing. After you remove the tracks you can pull out the cables. Push the guide pins back into the rear of the tracks. The cable and sled assembly go into the other track inside the track assembly. The liner rides inside the inner track opening (you will see when you get it out). As I said my passenger side cable end pulled out of the sled assembly. I took a drill bit and drill and used it to clean out the empty cable hole on the sled assembly. Then I got my handy tubes of kwik setting JB Weld. I filled the hole with JB weld and pushed the cable back into the hole. I then Re-crimped the assembly with a small to medium sized pair of bolt cutters. They did a factory perfect job of re-crimping the sleeve that surrounds the cable (you will see if you have this problem). Crimped the cable back into the sleeve and let the JB Weld set up for 4 hours. Pull on guide to verify it will not come off again. If all is well Re-assemble. Total cost to repair $0.00 total time about two and a half hours disassemble/reassemble and 4 hours watching the Blackhawks game while the JB Weld set up. Oh yeah. reassembly notes. Put the roof liner in before you screw the tracks back down to the car. make sure the plastic guide pins go into the holes inside the back of the roof. After putting the cables and tracks and liner back in and screwing it all down re-attach the roof panel and then push it all the way in as far as the guides will let it go. Make sure it is not crooked in the track then put the gear assembly back in the back by the motor.

hope this helps. It's really not hard once you realize how it is designed. it's just hidden very well when the roof is installed, but don't let that scare you.

EDITED 6/4/2010 8:30PM CST

Nick

 

Thanks for all of the responses. It sounds like a doable job with some patience. I just found the cables on Pelican (I can't believe how expensive these simple cables are) is there anything else I should replace while I have this whole thing open?

Also, does anyone have any experience on the A/C resistor replacement? It looks pretty straight forward but apparently accessing the one screw to get it loose is a PIA.

Thanks again for all of the responses and links.

 

AC ballast resistor is a complete PIA when going in via the wheel arch - alternative to taking off the full bumper! If you are lucky you might get an allen key in there but the angle and fact you cant see the screw head makes it difficult.

I re-sited mine instead of putting it on top of the condensor as mine had broken and the allen screw was not for moving. Fortunately the ballast connector is in reach and this gives you enough cable to site it elsewhere.

Having done both resistors I ended up changing the condensor a month later when the evaporator packed up!

 

Interesting idea. I guess I could "abandon" the original and relocate the new resistor. I imagine this approach would save me a ton of time and headache. Do you have a picture of where you relocated it?

Can you think of any negatives with this approach? I figure at some point I will have the bumper off and then can remove the old resistor.