Bolt found on crank case oil plug.
#76
Now back to regular programming:
There is another bolt that's gone AWOL, it's right beside the other one, I'm guessing it's probably somewhere in the crank case.
In case it does not come out with the drain plug again, is there another way I remove the bolt aside from opening up the crank case? Any potential danger if the bolt is not removed from the crank case? In the off chance the bolt isn't in the crank case, is there any place you think the bolt might be at?
As for the two AWOL bolts, I only have to remove the rocker to put in new ones right?
Worst case scenario where the bolt isn't in the crank case and the engine has to be opened up, do the cylinder heads have to be removed? With removal of the heads, aside from new valve cover gaskets, timing cover gaskets and cylinder head gaskets, what other gaskets should I get? Mechanic has suggested to buy an entire uppper and lower gasket kit. But I feel like alot of the stuff that comes with the kit will not be used, like the valve stem seals, valve seat rings etc. Or will those have to be replaced as well with removal of the heads?
There are also some minor oil leaks in the engine, seems to be from 2 of the cylinder heads and both timing chain covers. Mechanic suggests that we tackle those as well. Putting in new gaskets if the cylinder heads are removed is a no brainer, but would you guys recommend removing the heads soley to put in a new gasket to solve a minor leak?
Thanks.
There is another bolt that's gone AWOL, it's right beside the other one, I'm guessing it's probably somewhere in the crank case.
In case it does not come out with the drain plug again, is there another way I remove the bolt aside from opening up the crank case? Any potential danger if the bolt is not removed from the crank case? In the off chance the bolt isn't in the crank case, is there any place you think the bolt might be at?
As for the two AWOL bolts, I only have to remove the rocker to put in new ones right?
Worst case scenario where the bolt isn't in the crank case and the engine has to be opened up, do the cylinder heads have to be removed? With removal of the heads, aside from new valve cover gaskets, timing cover gaskets and cylinder head gaskets, what other gaskets should I get? Mechanic has suggested to buy an entire uppper and lower gasket kit. But I feel like alot of the stuff that comes with the kit will not be used, like the valve stem seals, valve seat rings etc. Or will those have to be replaced as well with removal of the heads?
There are also some minor oil leaks in the engine, seems to be from 2 of the cylinder heads and both timing chain covers. Mechanic suggests that we tackle those as well. Putting in new gaskets if the cylinder heads are removed is a no brainer, but would you guys recommend removing the heads soley to put in a new gasket to solve a minor leak?
Thanks.
Last edited by tracke30m3; 05-24-2010 at 09:52 AM.
#77
Rennlist Member
yes, remove rocker to replace the bolts
the leak is oil? coming from the top end (not the base of the barrel)?
It is likely due to the missing/loose bolts that fasten the cam tower to the heads. There is no gasket there but instead a sealing product (loctite 504 or some like a similar product, Yamabond).
If they don't need to crack the case then you just need a "head gasket set" or a you may even want to do it piecemeal if you are not removing the heads. Really depends on exactly what you are getting into... they may be recommended all of the gaskets because they are not sure what they will need.
If you take that approach, then yes, you are correct, there will likely be much unused. Tough call not knowing exactly what is going to be done... you can end up spending more if doing individually
the leak is oil? coming from the top end (not the base of the barrel)?
It is likely due to the missing/loose bolts that fasten the cam tower to the heads. There is no gasket there but instead a sealing product (loctite 504 or some like a similar product, Yamabond).
If they don't need to crack the case then you just need a "head gasket set" or a you may even want to do it piecemeal if you are not removing the heads. Really depends on exactly what you are getting into... they may be recommended all of the gaskets because they are not sure what they will need.
If you take that approach, then yes, you are correct, there will likely be much unused. Tough call not knowing exactly what is going to be done... you can end up spending more if doing individually
#79
Maybe worthwhile to put a magnet on a stick and probe it around in the crank case through the oil drain plug.
You can also go through the oil return tubes into the crank case to see if the bolt is around there.
Maybe you will get lucky and snag the bolt?
You can also go through the oil return tubes into the crank case to see if the bolt is around there.
Maybe you will get lucky and snag the bolt?
#80
Pro
Hi
If you can get a nice strong magnet I would have a go at moving any steel objects from outside the case towards the drain hole. Like the old trick of putting a magnet under the table and moving a steel disc on top. Sweep from the outside and radiate towards the hole. Try it on the oil lines as well. It might save some dissasembly.
Apologies if it is a rubbish idea!
Berni
If you can get a nice strong magnet I would have a go at moving any steel objects from outside the case towards the drain hole. Like the old trick of putting a magnet under the table and moving a steel disc on top. Sweep from the outside and radiate towards the hole. Try it on the oil lines as well. It might save some dissasembly.
Apologies if it is a rubbish idea!
Berni
#81
Rennlist Member
Hi
If you can get a nice strong magnet I would have a go at moving any steel objects from outside the case towards the drain hole. Like the old trick of putting a magnet under the table and moving a steel disc on top. Sweep from the outside and radiate towards the hole. Try it on the oil lines as well. It might save some dissasembly.
Apologies if it is a rubbish idea!
Berni
If you can get a nice strong magnet I would have a go at moving any steel objects from outside the case towards the drain hole. Like the old trick of putting a magnet under the table and moving a steel disc on top. Sweep from the outside and radiate towards the hole. Try it on the oil lines as well. It might save some dissasembly.
Apologies if it is a rubbish idea!
Berni
no way, this is well worth trying!