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Old 04-22-2010, 01:04 PM
  #16  
Gasser
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Well, paint looks better in pics. Not the fenders, they look great but the car looks a little tired. I'll paint the rest this winter.
Its a work in progress. Working close with Chris Cervelli so end result should be good. Motor will be last. Good Data from Joe is going in before aero and we will see what each component does. The next 2-3 years will be fun.
Brakes are custom. Rotors are brembo and hats are full floating custom aluminum hats. Rotors 13 inches and caliper is stock with a little machining. Real story is the cooling system/ ducted fans etc...450 cfm pumped through each. These have been bullet proof so far.
Old 04-22-2010, 01:50 PM
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ninjabones
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Originally Posted by race911
First I'll say stuff like this gets me interested again in doing what I have wanted to do with the yellow car since I bought it.

No doubt you'll have a higher grip level, all other things being equal. And the amount of rubber you can stick in the stock 993 fenderwells IS pretty substantial. But I can personally relate a couple of torsion bar track/race cars I've done from narrow-to-widebody. Both hit the track with the bodywork first before the bigger engine went in. Both were initially 225/245 tired cars; first went to 245/275, and the second to 275/315. Neither were faster purely on the tires/bodywork. The 275/315 car was a disaster, top speed wise until the 3.6L went in, from the previous 2.7RS spec. Same tires in both cases--BFG RA1s (mid-'90's version) for car #1, Kumho Victoracers (~'00-'03) for car #2.
I was a skeptic, but BobT's recent conversion on his GTS3 993 has made me a believer. Over the winter he made similar changes to his car (widebody conversion, vented bumpers, and 3.8 tail with banana wing). I ran with him at T-bolt late in the fall last season and again a few weeks ago after the conversion (still running his stock 8fr/10rr wheels/tires with spacers). He dropped 2 seconds at T-bolt and at least 2 seconds at summit point form his times last season (actually took the GTS3 track record at SP this weekend during the race with consistent times in the low 1:20s).

We looked at some data and his speed at the end of the front straight at NJMP was slightly slower than mine after the conversion (maybe 2-3 mph), but he made up for it and then some with mid corner speeds at #10 and huge gains through the chicane and turns 1 & 2.

There have been some bickering posts on racing/DE forum about the utility or lack thereof from aero changes. However, given the evidence from this testing, it is clear to me that aero alone (without even considering the additional potential benefit of wider tires) gives a properly driven 993 about 2 seconds advantage at T-bolt and summit point.
Old 04-22-2010, 02:30 PM
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Bill Verburg
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Prosystems?

yours?
Old 04-22-2010, 02:41 PM
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Gasser
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That's my car. If not mine, a buddies. There are several of us running around with these. All of our cars are red. Sure looks exactly like mine down to the wireing.

On edit, it's a buddies car as the strut bar is different.
Old 04-23-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by trophy
You should try your rear wheels on the front to check clearance etc.....
I did, they bolt right up but too tight inside. Once the suspension is moved out one inch they will probably be close if not right on. Ill post pics of the wheels and specs once I get them in and done...

Ill post some more pics this weekend once I bolt the rocker covers on and fix all my wheel liners to fit. Having to rig a few things up to make the stock liners work. Not street car perfect but very functional and durable. Keeps the air where I want it and the rocks where I don't...
Old 04-23-2010, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
Prosystems?

yours?
Pardon the ignorance... What are those?
Old 04-23-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jungleboy
Pardon the ignorance... What are those?
big as* brake cooling blowers

the duct work connects to spindle ducts


the rotors are a bit oversize too, 328x32 vs stock RS/tt 322x32 or base 304x32


Ductiing from the chassis to the spindle would look something like this


this is a very nice setup!
Old 04-23-2010, 11:13 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gasser
I did, they bolt right up but too tight inside. Once the suspension is moved out one inch they will probably be close if not right on. Ill post pics of the wheels and specs once I get them in and done...

Ill post some more pics this weekend once I bolt the rocker covers on and fix all my wheel liners to fit. Having to rig a few things up to make the stock liners work. Not street car perfect but very functional and durable. Keeps the air where I want it and the rocks where I don't...
What are you doing to move the suspension out?
Old 04-23-2010, 12:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ninjabones
I was a skeptic, but BobT's recent conversion on his GTS3 993 has made me a believer. Over the winter he made similar changes to his car (widebody conversion, vented bumpers, and 3.8 tail with banana wing). I ran with him at T-bolt late in the fall last season and again a few weeks ago after the conversion (still running his stock 8fr/10rr wheels/tires with spacers). He dropped 2 seconds at T-bolt and at least 2 seconds at summit point form his times last season (actually took the GTS3 track record at SP this weekend during the race with consistent times in the low 1:20s).

We looked at some data and his speed at the end of the front straight at NJMP was slightly slower than mine after the conversion (maybe 2-3 mph), but he made up for it and then some with mid corner speeds at #10 and huge gains through the chicane and turns 1 & 2.

There have been some bickering posts on racing/DE forum about the utility or lack thereof from aero changes. However, given the evidence from this testing, it is clear to me that aero alone (without even considering the additional potential benefit of wider tires) gives a properly driven 993 about 2 seconds advantage at T-bolt and summit point.
Original comment I responded to question the improved "handling." I know I muddy it by referring to overall grip. Wish we had cheap data 10-20 years ago.......... (Well, I guess you could have stuck some kids out there to time everyone in specific sections and give them ice cream afterward.)
Old 04-23-2010, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
big as* brake cooling blowers

the duct work connects to spindle ducts


the rotors are a bit oversize too, 328x32 vs stock RS/tt 322x32 or base 304x32


Ductiing from the chassis to the spindle would look something like this


this is a very nice setup!

Above brakes are mine but the ducting with the two hoses are not. Mine has only one hose since my rotors are bigger we had room for only one hose. The two hose setup is for a stock 964 braking system and to get more air to the very small caliper and rotor the added duct was used.

Just curious, where did you get these pics? I know who originally took them, the builder of the brakes but just curious who is using them for advertising?

By the way, the fans seem to work great and move a lot of air. If you forget to turn them on, I can tell you, the brakes will fade very fast So far Im still on my first set of rotors and second set of DCT 70 pads which generate a LOT of heat.

The above pic of the fans really don't do these justice. The designer of the fans is the same guy that designed the aero of the Nissan GTR.

I hope these backing plates will bolt right up to my EVO uprights. They should with minimal mods if any. I assume the only differance will be the steering and A arm mounting points, the rest should be the same as stock.
Old 04-23-2010, 04:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by trophy
What are you doing to move the suspension out?
There are holes already in the chassis so lower mount will just simply be moved out one inch and camber corrected at the shock tower with my camberplates. The spindles will be changed to the EVO uprights to correct roll center and controll bump steer. Chris Cervelli will do the work for me hopefully soon...

Jeff
Old 04-23-2010, 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gasser
There are holes already in the chassis so lower mount will just simply be moved out one inch and camber corrected at the shock tower with my camberplates. The spindles will be changed to the EVO uprights to correct roll center and controll bump steer. Chris Cervelli will do the work for me hopefully soon...

Jeff

Jeff,

I heard from the 964 guys that you can simply rotate your strut mount 180 instead of using the camber plates. I wonder if this is true for the 993.

Also, can you use the stock upright with the outer holes if you don't go to far below RS height?
Old 04-23-2010, 04:56 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Gasser
There are holes already in the chassis so lower mount will just simply be moved out one inch and camber corrected at the shock tower with my camberplates. The spindles will be changed to the EVO uprights to correct roll center and controll bump steer. Chris Cervelli will do the work for me hopefully soon...

Jeff
Originally Posted by axl911
Jeff,

I heard from the 964 guys that you can simply rotate your strut mount 180 instead of using the camber plates. I wonder if this is true for the 993.

Also, can you use the stock upright with the outer holes if you don't go to far below RS height?
This is why Rennlist is so great you learn something new every day.......
Old 04-23-2010, 05:24 PM
  #29  
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Oh wow! That is impressive! Thanks for the explanation there Bill.

Gasser, are you putting in long distance endurance type track time to need these blowers to help keep your brakes from fading (as big as they are)?

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
big as* brake cooling blowers

the duct work connects to spindle ducts


the rotors are a bit oversize too, 328x32 vs stock RS/tt 322x32 or base 304x32


Ductiing from the chassis to the spindle would look something like this


this is a very nice setup!
Old 04-23-2010, 05:36 PM
  #30  
Gasser
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With the size of these brakes, it was not necessary for tracks like TWS at all. At Hallett its absolutly necessary as its VERY hard on brakes even in a sprint. I would loose brakes 2/3s way through if I was on the binders hard or had to back off to save brakes. Now I can be on them hard until the end and I do mean hard, braking at 1 and making the turn. Hallett can be very hard on brakes. Reason I did not just do the cooling and went with bigger rotors and floating hat design was to get better longevity out of the rotors as the stock holed rotors were cracking on me as I go to Hallett often and I planned on moving my car to a GT class and developing it over time.
Hallett is my Home track. Hopeing to go next weekend to play with the car before it goes back to Denver.

These would work great for enduros on any track. this said, you can overcome any braking systems ability to deal with heat if you push them hard enough so there are limits to any system including this one. No free energy lunch...


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